2 part epoxy for turnings?

[Ron Bontz]

Just a quick question, if I may. I was wondering what everyone thinks about using 2 part epoxy for turning as opposed to CA or alphatics, (titebond, etc)
I am wondering what would hold up the best in the long run. I have two walnut lamps I turned over thirty years ago, ( Elmer's wood glue) that are still hanging in there. But I have read where epoxy may be better. Thoughts?:)

[Bill O'Conner]

I use 2 part epoxy for glueing all of my pen tubes and have used it as a medimum for chasing threads in wood to soft for threads.

I have also used it to glue in inserts with a little color added so if the glue line shows it isn't clear

Bill

[Mike Minto]

i use epoxy for pen tubes (on difficult/tropical woods), as well as glueing faceplates to my work.

[Bob Vavricka]

Ron,
If you are asking about gluing up wood to turn, for most things like lamps, etc. I would think your Titebond or similar glue would work just fine and might be the best choice. I think the glue line would be a little more prominent with epoxy. I don't think I would use CA for gluing two wood pieces together for turning unless I had a specific reason for it (can't think of what that might be right now). Some people use CA for finishing small items and it works good, but you have to develop a technique that works for you. As mentioned, epoxy is good for gluing pen tubes in pen blanks or for gluing other dissimilar materials together. I've wondered how it might work as a finish for pens, but I have the CA figured out for me and haven't taken time to try epoxy. Anyone try epoxy for a finish on pens?
Bob V.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I have made a dozen or so lamps and use Titebond II for mine. I have some I made years ago that are still holding fine. I use like the other epoxy for pens, inserts, etc. but don't know as I would use it to glue lamps.

[Richard Madison]

For segmented, stave, and laminated wood projects most people use Titebond I or II, or the Elmers equivalent. A properly made joint is often stronger than the parent wood. Epoxy and CA are fine for other kinds of work.

[Dick Sowa]

I don't think epoxy is flexible enough to accommodate wood movement on larger pieces. I do use epoxy to hold handles and finials onto lidded boxes I turn, but that's the only place I use it.

[Thom Sturgill]

As said, if you are gluing long-grain to long-grain, Titebond (or Elmers) is stronger than the wood itself, but is not a repairable joint. If you are glueing end-grain, nothing will hold well, so dowling or mortices give some long-grain attachment. If you have a joint that needs filling or the ability to repair, epoxy works, but the joint tends to be more visible.

Stradivarius' violins have held together for centuries with hide glues, which provide probably the ultimate in repairability, but I don't know how it would hold up to turning stresses.