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View Full Version : G0490 Jointer Arrival and Setup



Jason Hanko
12-15-2009, 12:23 AM
Well Im finally the owner of a Jointer!
When Microsoft/Bing Cashback jumped up to 20% last weekend I offhandedly mentioned to LOML that now would be the perfect time to buy, what with the M$ discount on top of the free shipping and $50 off Grizzly is offering on the GO490. I think I almost fell over when she said "Well, order it then!" So I hopped on Bing/Ebay and did so before she could come to her senses! :)
Pretty quick delivery - I placed my Ebay order around 10PM on Sunday, and the unit was in my driveway Thursday afternoon. So far I am VERY impressed with Grizzly's customer service (although not surprised since I was familiar with their reputation from posts here). I think I ended up calling them three or four times, and each time I was on hold less than ten seconds before speaking to a real person. Not only were they understanding and helpful with an Ebay SNAFU (I "accidentally" ordered two units since the M$ cashback didnt work the first time...:eek::mad:), but also they were very helpful in arranging for liftgate service, and then refunding that fee when the truck showed up with a BROKEN liftgate. My buddy and I ended up hefting the crates out of the back of the semi by hand....not real fun, but all ended well.

There was one smallish hole in the box containing the cabinet/motor, but not so much as a scratch or dent on the cabinet itself. My only real complaint was with the bolts that held the jointer bed to the bottom of the wooden crate. On one side the bolt must have been scraped up because the threads were destroyed and I couldnt get the nut all the way off the bolt - I ended up using a hacksaw. I didnt have that problem on the other side because the nut/washer were missing...

Assembly was fairly straightforward, although the newer copy of the manual I got from the Grizzly website was much more detailed than the older copy that was included in the crate. The overall fit and finish of the machine is excellent.
Moving the motor into its mounting position was no problem at all - I did a little writeup on my no-lifting-required method in this thread. (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=1280392&postcount=16) My neighbor and I were able to lift the bed up onto the base with no issues - this wasnt nearly as bad as I had been worrying about.

I didnt bother with the OEM belt that came with, opting to go right to a high-quality notched belt from the local auto supply store. I got the exact same size as had come with the jointer, but the proper amount of tension wasnt possible due to the placement of the slots that the motor bracket slides on. The top set of slots didnt allow the belt to get tight enough, and if I moved things down to the lower set of slots I couldnt get the belt around the pulleys. I ended up getting a shorter belt. I then had to use a quick clamp in spreader mode to get enough tension on the belt to avoid vibration. I decided that the best use for the $1.99 Harbor Freight clamp was to reposition it slightly and leave it in the machine permanently as my version of the wooden-block-to-brace-the-motor-mount fix (see picture 1). Passes the nickel test now though, including on startup and shutdown! (Is it just me, or is it hard to get a nickel to balance even when the machine isnt running?? :rolleyes:)

I did the dust-collection fix as seen in picture 2 - I cut two scraps of plywood (from the shipping crate:)) and blocked off the top corners to keep dust out of the cabinet. I hear the new units have this fixed now, along with an updated belt/pulley system. Mine says it was born in April 2008, so Im guessing I dont have one of the newer ones.

I swapped out the cord for a longer 20 footer, and the test run went great. Im guessing these three horses wont be slowed down by pretty much anything I try and run through it. Sure is quiet for such a big machine - most of the noise seems to be from the whooshing of air coming off the cutterhead/blades!

I spent quite a while checking alignment with a good quality straightedge from Lee Valley and some feeler guages. The beds were very flat - I found just one .0015 dip on the infeed table, no big deal. A slighly larger (.003'') wave in the fence, also no biggie. The outfeed bed wasnt quite aligned with the cutterhead straight out of the crate. After some adjusting of the outfeed bed (quite easy thanks to the parallelogram design) I thought I had it all squared away. Spent about an hour then trying to get the infeed coplaner with the outfeed. I came pretty close, but finally at 1am I decided to call it a night.

I started over again the next morning and found that the operator side of the outfeed table is about .001'' higher than the fence side as measured from the cutterhead (not the blade). On the infeed side, the the corner closest to the fence near the cutterhead seems to be about .003'' inches low (out of co-planer with the outfeed table). I cant get this adjusted up high enough with the cam adjusters on the parallelogran setup, so Im thinking Ill have to lower the other three. :mad: I guess my question is: is it worth spending another afternoon getting everything dead-nuts on to within < .001'', or am I close enough with how it is now??? Im thinking I'll at least need to fix the dip on the infeed table side, since I can get the fence 90° square to the infeed OR square to the outfeed, but not both.
Woo! This got long. Thanks for reading - Comments/suggestions/advice are very much welcomed!

Chuck Wintle
12-15-2009, 5:47 AM
I would say it is worth it to get the tables as coplaner as possible.

Scott Wigginton
12-15-2009, 6:55 AM
Another quick mod you might want to consider is to file off 1/8" from the foot on the fence that rides on the outfeed table and replace it with a small strip of UMHW.

Cary Falk
12-15-2009, 7:09 AM
Another quick mod you might want to consider is to file off 1/8" from the foot on the fence that rides on the outfeed table and replace it with a small strip of UMHW.


Scott,
I have been trying to do this on my W1741 and can't get it to stick with several brands of epoxy. What glue are you using?
Thanks,
Cary

Mike Goetzke
12-15-2009, 10:05 AM
Looks great Jason. I've PM'ed Jason a few times since I'll be getting mine next week :D. The more I look at it the more the motor mounting struts scare me. I told Jason they remind me of the motor mount on the HF BS I had a few years back. In that machine many used wood but I found a perfect size piece of 1/4" aluminum plate that I mounted the motor to and machined slots into the plate for adjustment. This significantly stiffened the motor mount. Something like this may be needed on this jointer.


Mike

JohnT Fitzgerald
12-15-2009, 10:13 AM
Congrats!!!

Todd Moody
12-15-2009, 10:33 AM
Excellent post, thanks. I received my G0490 about 3-4 weeks ago now. I finished assembling it, though I still have to make some minor adjustments, etc. But your thread was very informative, and has prompted me to look into some of the mods you & others have made. Thanks for writing!
-Todd

Scott Wigginton
12-15-2009, 11:48 AM
Scott,
I have been trying to do this on my W1741 and can't get it to stick with several brands of epoxy. What glue are you using?
Thanks,
Cary

Cary, I'm using Slick Strips (http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000902/4003/Slick-Strips--34-Width-132-Thick.aspx) from Woodcraft trimmed to size. They're adhesion-backed and stuck on the first try.

Cary Falk
12-15-2009, 12:04 PM
Cary, I'm using Slick Strips (http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000902/4003/Slick-Strips--34-Width-132-Thick.aspx) from Woodcraft trimmed to size. They're adhesion-backed and stuck on the first try.

Thanks Scott. And my order from Woodcraft just shipped yesterday.:(

Gerry Grzadzinski
12-15-2009, 1:21 PM
Scott,
I have been trying to do this on my W1741 and can't get it to stick with several brands of epoxy. What glue are you using?
Thanks,
Cary

Epoxy doesn't stick to most plastics.

Cary Falk
12-15-2009, 1:30 PM
Epoxy doesn't stick to most plastics.

Yeah, kind of figured that out already.:D:D:D:D:D

Chuck Isaacson
12-15-2009, 6:53 PM
Thanks for getting my new jointer all set up for me!!! When can I expect delivery? It should only take you about 30min to get here.

Chuck

keith ouellette
12-15-2009, 8:01 PM
There are a number of people who are going to scoff at the idea of setting anything up to within .001.

I say if you can measure to that degree of accuracy then why the hell not make it perfect.

You will only have to do it once now and then maybe again some time down the road when things settle.

There isn't anything wrong with precision. Don't let it get aggravating though.

glenn bradley
12-15-2009, 10:14 PM
Scott,
I have been trying to do this on my W1741 and can't get it to stick with several brands of epoxy. What glue are you using?
Thanks,
Cary

Butting in here ;-) I filed the foot to make it sorta smooth (not even enough to take the paint all the way off). Scrubbed it with naphtha and used a strip of the UHMW tape. Been there since day one and survived many fence moves.

135320135321135322

Ooops, I'm a dork. Scott beat me to it ;-)

P.s. Watch out for the left end where the little rabbet is. Mine was super sharp. I filed it dull.

135323

Jason Hanko
12-17-2009, 12:07 AM
Thanks everyone!
Ill probably take your guys' advice and take the time to get everything aligned as perfectly as I can get it. I ran a few test pieces through and Im not getting a perfect 90° corner between the two faces, so it definitely needs some more adjustment.
I do like the mobility built into the base - but am I the only one that cringes when putting it into park?! BANG! :eek:
I feel like Im dropping half the jointer from about 4 feet up. The only way to soften the landing is to yank upwards on the infeed table as it falls, which Im sure is really great for keeping it aligned.:rolleyes:

Thanks for the idea Scott/Glen, Id already noticed that the fence was rubbing on the bed a bit - that slick tape ought to do the trick.

Mike: The motor mounting struts are actually pretty solid. The actual struts dont move or anything - its not like they're flimsy. I just added the clamp as extra bracing to keep the motor from climbing up the belt when the machine was first started, which caused a little slippage. It also greatly cut down the amount of vibration that would occur when the motor is stopping.

Chuck: No problem! Ill load it right up and head over. As long as Im there I can pick up my new Penn State Cyclone that you were nice enough to test out for me. :D:D:D

glenn bradley
12-17-2009, 12:19 AM
I'm with you on the 'suddenness' of lowering the beast onto the front feet. I bend over and work the pedal by hand but am sure some clever idea will be shared or possibly even come to me at some point. If it does, I'll share ;-) There are several mobile setups that use an inadequate version of that mechanism. One of us will figure out a fix soon.

Jason Hanko
12-17-2009, 12:37 AM
I'm with you on the 'suddenness' of lowering the beast onto the front feet. I bend over and work the pedal by hand but am sure some clever idea will be shared or possibly even come to me at some point. If it does, I'll share ;-) There are several mobile setups that use an inadequate version of that mechanism. One of us will figure out a fix soon.
I was afraid that if I tried lowering it by hand the pedal would throw me into the base...haha. We need to figure out some way to hook up one of those pneumatic plungers that slow down screen doors...

Cliff Holmes
12-17-2009, 3:37 AM
I feel like Im dropping half the jointer from about 4 feet up.

Put your foot fully on the pedal and push with your toes. The pedal will release and be stopped by your heel, which you can then use to gently lower it to the floor.

Cliff Holmes
12-17-2009, 3:39 AM
The more I look at it the more the motor mounting struts scare me

The struts are very, very heavy gauge. No issue there, IMO.

JohnMorgan of Lititz
12-17-2009, 9:46 AM
Put your foot fully on the pedal and push with your toes. The pedal will release and be stopped by your heel, which you can then use to gently lower it to the floor.


That's what I do. Another option is to lower the adjustable feet on each corner at the same end as the pedal. If you lower the feet it has less distance to drop...I recently did this as i moved things in my garage - ended up adjusting the feet to account for the drain slope and noticed i had them turned out far enough that i can just flip the pedal and let it fly with no more "bang!"

JohnMorgan of Lititz
12-17-2009, 9:48 AM
Would it be possilbe to post up a couple pics of how you adjust the cam lobes to adjust the table? Mine could use a little tweaking, but I've been real hesitant to mess with it.

I guess you loosen the lock nut, but then how do you spin the cams? And how do you know what direction? Just trial and error?

Jason Hanko
12-17-2009, 2:41 PM
Manual says to use a spanner wrench or small hammer/punch. I used a pair of channel lock pliers to grip the flat sides of the cam.
I cant recall on the direction to turn - trial and error for me. (dont forget that there are TWO sets of set screws that you need to loosen to move each of the cams.)
My question for the group is: If Im only going to adjust one of the cams, do I need to loosen the setscews for the other three corresponding cams for that table? You wouldnt think so, but I have been anyways...

Mike Goetzke
12-24-2009, 9:25 AM
Butting in here ;-) I filed the foot to make it sorta smooth (not even enough to take the paint all the way off). Scrubbed it with naphtha and used a strip of the UHMW tape. Been there since day one and survived many fence moves.

135320135321135322

Ooops, I'm a dork. Scott beat me to it ;-)

P.s. Watch out for the left end where the little rabbet is. Mine was super sharp. I filed it dull.

135323

Glenn - I was ready to get some tape for my G0490 fence but I noticed the outfeed bed pad on mine has been ground to be a radius/curved surface (not flat/square/painted like yours). Might be hard to get the tape to stick on mine?

Mike

Jason Hanko
12-24-2009, 10:46 AM
Glenn - I was ready to get some tape for my G0490 fence but I noticed the outfeed bed pad on mine has been ground to be a radius/curved surface (not flat/square/painted like yours). Might be hard to get the tape to stick on mine?
Hmm, another nice improvement. Maybe with the pad ground/curved like that, scraping the beds wont be an issue?

michael case
12-25-2009, 1:11 AM
Hey Jason

I ordered the G0490 a week and 1/2 ago. They sent the machine out right away. It arrived within three business days! I was worried about getting the four hundred pound crate with the beds and tables in my shop so I paid $30.00 for lift gate delivery. The delivery was UPS. They arrived on time and the driver was very helpful. I rented a chain hoist and made slings and this made lifting the tables a breeze. It all went smoothly. But I got to tell the most time consuming thing was adjusting the beds. I could do it now in half an hour, but the first time took three. Mainly because I did not settle down and do it from the ground up i.e. starting with aligning the table to the cutter head. So I went in circles. Finally I got serious and yes I had to adjust all four to achieve absolute coplaner. By the way I had to call tech support with a question. They answered right away and were very friendly. I was confused about the location of the front right set screws. Glad I called and didn’t remove the depth gauge. Because the hole is not on top like the others but forward. It was tedious and I wish they had included an appropriate wrench for adjusting the cams, But it was worth it; the tables are absolutely coplaner. Also the tables are dead flat! They are perfect. There was one corner of the fence that was out by .005, but it only took 5 minutes with a block and fine sand paper true it up. I agree with you this this machine has power. It is really and truly a three horse. I had a piece of rough sawn hard maple set aside just for testing this machine. Well it trued it lickety split. This jointer can take a 1/16” off a full 8” maple board without the slightest hesitation. It also joints edges dead square and the long 43” infeed table takes the crook out of an 8’ board with ease. Grizzly’s customer service was great. So far I'm lovin this machine. I hope you like yours as much as I like mine.

Mike Goetzke
12-25-2009, 1:37 AM
Jason/Michael - the recent purchase of the G0490 jointer is my first Grizzly tool but based on their CS definitely not my last. I had a minor issue with the stop button having a bad thread on the fastening collar (probably shipping damage) and within an hour of calling they called back confirming the replacement was in stock and on it's way.

Jason - I would call and see if they will upgrade your belt / pulleys. After all it was your post that sold me on mine.

Mike