guidance for making a Go Board

[Bachir Souhlal]

Hi all,
I want to build a nice go boad for my son. I will use some soft splated maple. Any Guidance on making, in engraving the board and using ink with no leakage ? suggestion are all welcome
Thank you
Bachi

[Jim Rimmer]

What is a Go Board?

[Leigh Betsch]

Potty training device?? Maybe with a target?

[John Lucas]

And I thought it was a Go board for the Japanese game of Go.

[Jeff Bratt]

Here's info on making a goban:
http://senseis.xmp.net/?MakingYourOwnEquipment
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go_equipment
A link to my game table (http://home.roadrunner.com/%7Ejeffnann/WoodWorking/WoodWorking.html) (scroll down)
Other links:
http://www.bamsoftware.com/go/board.html

The grain of the wood should be subtle, so it doesn't interfere with the pattern of the stones. If you have well seasoned wood, then you can make a thicker board, but be careful of warping. Though non-traditional, I think small feet are a good idea, even for a table board. I used a ink marker - narrow felt tip style - for marking the lines of the grid. (Then I sanded it all off, and finished the board all over again, because I miscalculated the grid spacing the first time...) The marker I used came from Rockler, but I don't see it listed anymore - I'll keep looking. If you put down a coat of finish first, then the lines, then another finish coat, you will have no trouble with the ink bleeding into the wood. The surface of a goban is smooth, there is no engraving there. If you have specific questions, you can also email me - or post them here...

[Myk Rian]

You could always use pin-striping tape. Get it at an auto store.

[Rob Young]

If you put on a coat of finish BEFORE inking the lines, it should help to seal the wood and keep the ink from spidering. Then another coat of finish over the ink to seal it in.

Experiment a little bit but my first try would be a coat of shellac (two thin coats probably) over the board, post engraving. Then the ink.

[Eric DeSilva]

I always thought it was traditional to lay out the lines for a go board using a sword, and assumed that there was originally some kind of indentation associated with that.

In typical Japanese fashion, one of the key differentiators that makes one board a classic and others just so-so is the sound that is made as the pieces are played. If I remember correctly, there are typically cut-outs in the center of the bottom side of the board that play into that.

My board is constructed of a fairly soft wood, but is rather thick--the board itself is probably 8" thick. It also has legs that raise it another 4" or so. That puts it at a comfortable height when seated on the floor playing.

[Michael Wildt]

NICE WORK Jeff.

Michael

[Jeff Bratt]

I always thought it was traditional to lay out the lines for a go board using a sword, and assumed that there was originally some kind of indentation associated with that.

The traditional marking method uses a curved metal blade coated with ink, but the part that contacts the wood is (at least pretty close to) the width of the marked lines - so if it's a sword, it's a dull one. There may be some indentation of the marked lines, but it would not qualify as "engraving". What does the surface of your board feel like?


In typical Japanese fashion, one of the key differentiators that makes one board a classic and others just so-so is the sound that is made as the pieces are played. If I remember correctly, there are typically cut-outs in the center of the bottom side of the board that play into that.

My board is constructed of a fairly soft wood, but is rather thick--the board itself is probably 8" thick. It also has legs that raise it another 4" or so. That puts it at a comfortable height when seated on the floor playing.

As you mentioned, floor boards (http://www.kurokigoishi.co.jp/english/onlineshop/hyugakayagoban/images/200905/3746-2.jpg) traditionally have a pyramid shaped cutout (http://www.kurokigoishi.co.jp/english/onlineshop/hyugakayagoban/images/200905/3746-6.jpg) in the bottom - but thinner table boards do not. It is a challenge to get such a thick piece of wood to not crack or warp. I have seen even a table board (about 2" thick) that has warped slightly concave - just enough that some small feet are required so it doesn't rock when set on a hard surface.

[Larry Fox]

Bump on this thread as the more I read about this game the more I think I might like to build a board and introduce my oldest son as I think he would like it. Can anyone recommend stones that a kid can easily pick up or that press into a hole in the board? Ideally they wound be something that would not move around so that the state of the game did not get messed up when a kid went to take stones off or put them on. Tons of links to stones via Google but they all look like they just sit on the board.

I saw a board in a game store over the weekend that was of very poor quality and they wanted $25 for it. I am way too cheap for that and think I can build my own.

[Jeff Bratt]

Can anyone recommend stones that a kid can easily pick up or that press into a hole in the board? Ideally they wound be something that would not move around so that the state of the game did not get messed up when a kid went to take stones off or put them on. Tons of links to stones via Google but they all look like they just sit on the board.

There are magnetic go travel sets, but I've never seen a go board that uses pegs or has indentations like chinese checkers. You could certainly make something like that if you wanted. There are two types of go stones - Japanese lens shaped stones, and Chinese stones that are flat on one side. The flat-bottomed stones are less expensive, and might be stable enough for you. There was also a modern go-like game called Pente that used glass nuggets (http://www.whittemoredurgin.com/glasnugorglo.html) as playing pieces.

[Bachir Souhlal]

thaks for your guidance. here is the result! we used splated soft maple the I miled and air dried for a couple of years. Wood humidity was 10%
Thanks
Bachi

[Jeff Bratt]

They look fine to me!!