Using Paste Wax on tools and jigs?

[Tony Shea]

I have recently got myself some Johnson's Paste Wax per other ppl's reccomendation for lubing up tool tops such as table saw, jointer, fences, etc. The other day I was reading a thread about what to finish a bench top with and a common response was use paste wax to top off the finish, which is what I've done to mine. Another post had said to NOT use paste wax as this could cause problems with projects that make contact when time comes to put a finish on it. After letting this marinate for a day I have become concerned with my addiction with using paste wax for anything that my future projects are going to touch.

Does this comment against using Paste Wax have any merit and what are everyone's experience with using this for this intended purpose of making tools and jigs slick?

[Cliff Holmes]

You only need to worry about *automotive* or other waxes that contain silicone, since that will cause fisheyes in the finish.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Cliff is spot on.

-Jeff :)

[glenn bradley]

I have never had a problem with Johnson's Paste Wax. I do understand the concerns about other products.

[Peter Quinn]

I think if you glom it on an assembly table and don't buff it out you could potentially have an issue with some dragging off in spots and creating finishing issues. DAMHIK:eek: If you put it on like tanning lotion at the beach or barbecue sauce at the grill, there may be problems.

But if you use some restraint, add thin coats and buff them out after they haze, no issue, no problems.

[Rob Young]

With a non-silicone wax properly applied (thin coat, rubbed out) on a workbench the only problem I can see is the workbench becoming TOO slick. If you use bench dogs or similar hold-downs they might not work as well if the bottom side of the piece wants to skid a little.

Not much of a problem in the greater scheme of things because eventually the bench will rough up again.

I doubt you did any harm and a light coat once a year is probably OK, especially if you use the same bench for glue-ups. A little wax makes it easier to clean up the glue-goobers.

[doug faist]

I have to side with Rob on this one. I use Johnson's Paste Wax for tools and jigs that I WANT to be slick and slippery.

The top of my bench, though, is finished only with Waterlox (just a coat every year or so) and some 220 sandpaper. I have found that the top can be too slick if waxed and sliding boards are NOT a good thing during a crucial glue up.

Try it both ways and see what works for you; wax is very easy to remove and, indeed, will wear off rather quickly over time.

Now, get out there and make sawdust!

Doug

[Lee Schierer]

I wouldn't worry about wax rubbing off unless you are using a water based finish. Even then I'm not sure enough would rub off to make a problem. The solvents in solvent based finishes should dissolve any wax that might get on your unfinished wood.

On the other hand silicone, which is common in automotive type waxes is difficult to remove from wood and will mess up you finishes.

[John Harden]

Tony, I agree with the advice to use it on items you want to have a slick surface. The bottom of a hand plane is a good idea. Screws go in easier if you apply a bit of wax to them, etc.

I find it ironic to hear people admonish to not use wax with silicone in it as it'll bugger up your finish work. While this is true, wax by itself will also create problems with finishing.

The key point is you need to make sure there is no waxy residue on your wood when it comes time to finish. A hand plane and/or scraper work best here.

To be clear, I'm not advising to use wax that contains silicone. My point is to remind you that wax without silicone in it will cause the same finish problems if residue remains on the bare wood. You're not "home free" just because you bought a can of paste wax that doesn't contain silicone.

I wax my bending jigs and other templates so finish and glue doesn't stick to them. Wax does a decent job of creating a barrier film on raw wood that inhibits finishes and/or glue from adhering.

Regards,

John

[Tony Shea]

The top of my bench, though, is finished only with Waterlox (just a coat every year or so) and some 220 sandpaper.


Doug,

How does this stuff react with glue adhering to it? That is the reason for me choosing paste wax to finish my top off with as I don't have enough room to add another bench for assemblies at the moment. My bench is used for everything. I agree that I don't care for the slickness of wax on the top of my bench and would like to find something else once the wax where's off.

And yes, I don't leave any globs of wax behind after buffing it out. I really like the finish that it leaves on tools and such that need to be slick. Thanks for all the reassurance on my decision to use paste wax.

[Joe Scharle]

Just today, I popped off some paint drips from yesterday that got on the top. Keep it waxed and nothing (that I use) will completely stick to it.

[John Coloccia]

I find it ironic to hear people admonish to not use wax with silicone in it as it'll bugger up your finish work. While this is true, wax by itself will also create problems with finishing.


The problem with silicone is that once it's in your shop, it seems to never go away. It just gets everywhere and can cause random problems for quite a long time. Regular wax, like carnuba for example, just cleans up, scrapes off or whatever. Generally, I would agree that you don't want to paint over wax! :D

[doug faist]

Doug,

How does this stuff react with glue adhering to it? That is the reason for me choosing paste wax to finish my top off with as I don't have enough room to add another bench for assemblies at the moment. My bench is used for everything. I agree that I don't care for the slickness of wax on the top of my bench and would like to find something else once the wax where's off.

Tony - I've never had a problem with glue sticking to the bench. Waterlox effectively seals the pores so that glue doesn't penetrate. A quick swipe with a scraper and it pops off quite easily.

Just my two cents.

Doug