Hey Curt Fuller - is whittlin' OK???

[John Keeton]

I was so impressed with the shape and various profiles on the segmented ornament that Curt sent Steve, that I wanted to see if I could duplicate some of the cuts. I didn't have a large enough piece of stock handy to get the right size globe. And, I am certainly not to the point of doing a hollow globe or a segmented globe. But, I thought I could at least play with a piece of walnut I had left over.

Well, it got to be fun (yes, Ken, I admit it - you too, Bernie and Tony!) and pretty soon, I just about had the whole thing shaped.

But, I suddenly realized - I can't get this thing off of here with two end cuts!!:o:p
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So, I just took it off the lathe, cut the ends off, and pulled out the ol' pocket knife! Will that work, Curt?
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I was pretty happy with the overall shape (minus the disproportionate globe), although I was beginning to get some chatter. I know it really needs to be thinner, but I am not there yet! BTW, it is about 8" overall length.

Bernie sent me some links that will be helpful, and I am watching with interest Dan's venture into the hollowing tools.

So, with lathe and pocketknife, I think I am on my way with this spinny stuff!!:D

[Ken Fitzgerald]

John,

Nice form!

When you get your Nova chuck, you can get a set of jaws that will go down small. Then, you can turn the thin end thin at the tailstock end and part the thick end off at the chuck/headstock end. That will leave about about a 1/8" diameter stub that I take off with one of my skews.

Nicely done John.

You sir, are hooked!

[Bill O'Conner]

and once that chuck get there it will help too

Bill

[David Christopher]

John, youre getting pretty good at this spinny thing....that piece has nice form....good job........it looks like you are on you way

[Kenneth Whiting]

Good job John. That'a a nice ornament. It looks like your slipping a little farther over the edge. Just barely holding on by your pocket knife isn't a secure place to be.

[Tony De Masi]

Very nice John.

Tony

[Bernie Weishapl]

John that has great form and well done.

Now John you are going to have to buy another G3 chuck (as the one you just ordered you said was a paperweight) with pin jaws to do those finials.:D:D That will make it a lot easier to do those.

[Steve Schlumpf]

John - that is some very nice work! It is one thing to master tool control (just takes time) but it is something altogether different to have an eye for form. You definitely have a feel for this turning thing as each post shows a marked improvement!

I have to think at this point you are some insight as why some of us really enjoy turning! It can be addicting and it is a whole lot of fun!

[John Keeton]

Thanks, guys!! I do appreciate the support and the compliments. Steve, coming from you, those comments mean a lot.

I guess the thing that is fun on the ornaments (and, I guess it would be on bowls as well) is that they sort of just "develop." Unless one is trying to copy something (like I did on this one) there is a lot of freedom in what comes next.

Hopefully, when I get the chuck and steady, and the Thompson tools I have coming, I will be ready to play some more. No more flat work until spring!!;)

Bo, how did your handle work out for the Thompson? And, how long did it take your tools to come in? I picked up some brass coupling nuts, and I hope this next week to get the handles ready for tools!

[Dan Forman]

John---Looking good indeed!

Thompson is usually pretty quick on delivery.

To minimize chatter when you get your chuck, work from the tip of the finial toward the base, and sand as you go, one segment at a time. That way everything to your right has full support. Here is a link to illustrate...
http://www.rrosand.com/articles/19-3.shtml

It helps to have an idea of what you want to do with this approach, as opposed to just letting things develop as you go, as you can't go back and change what you've already done. I find it helpful to make some drawings to work on pleasing design - saves a lot of wood too. :) Like what you came up with here, has all the elements of good design, repetition, variation, proportion --- not too busy, not to static.

For finials, nothing can beat that little 1/4" skew for delicate work. Bob sells one fo $20, or you can make your own. By the time you pay shipping from Enco, you could buy one of Bob's though - unless you want to make a bunch of tools, then you're better off buying a bunch of those bits. If you haven't used a skew before, there is a learning curve, but it's well worth the trouble to learn. I don't think I'm halfway through the curve yet, but working on it. The Alan Lacer skew video is a great resource.

Dan

[Kenneth Whiting]

John, my handle seems to be working out well. I haven't been able to use it much to find out what I like and don't like about it. I had a hard time getting the hole drilled straight so it tilts down a little. Just enough to notice it when it's sitting on a flat surface. Luckily I didn't epoxy it in place so I can make another when I have better means to make better pieces.
I don't remember how long it took to get here, but it was faster than I thought it would be.

[Curt Fuller]

John, that's a beautiful ornament! I love the proportions myself. It looks very elegant with the small globe. I've never turned an ornament between centers so you're one up on me. Most between center turning usually does require a little whittlin' to finish up the ends and you've done a fine job of it. I'm thinking I might have to give a between center ornament a try. That's really a beauty!

BTW, you might be kind of new to this turning thing, but I think it's just the mechanical side of it. I think there's a lot of artistic talent and an eye for what looks good scratching at the door just begging to get out.

[John Keeton]

Thanks, Curt! I hope to some day be able to do work like yours - beautiful stuff! I really appreciate your comments.

Bo, I have a Jacobs chuck on the way, and I may wait until I get the steady from Jeff Nicol. That way, I could drill the holes with the lathe - might be a better plan to avoid your situation. I'm not real good with a hand drill!!

[Dan Forman]

John---The steady will come in handy, but you don't kneed it to drill small holes for tools.

For a handle, just square your stock, draw an X across the tailstock end. Center the x on the point of the live center, with the other end in the jaws of the chuck. Give yourself about an 1/8" clearance from the back of the chuck jaws, and tighten them down, applying pressure with the other hand holding the stock against the live center. Make sure you haven't moved off of the center X. Give it a test spin to see that it's centered. Now put the Jacob's chuck in the tailstock and drill away.

Replace the live center and snug it into the hole you just drilled. Round the blank off with a roughing gouge. Turn the tenon for the ferrule, shape the rest of the handle, sand, and part off. Use a little epoxy on the ferrule if it's not really tight going on, and push the steel into the handle. You can epoxy the tool if you want, or if you're not sure about the handle and want to try it out first, it should be snug enough to stay in without the glue.

Dan