Grizzly G0555X

[Alan East]

I've a Grizzley G0555x band saw ordered. Never had a bandsaw before but found I wanted to cut curves and circles so settled on Grizzley after checking reviews. It fit the wallet too. I did not order the riser block as I don't anticipate doing any resawing. Are there any gotchas to watch for when assembling? Am I going to want any accessories, a better fence, rollers, blade or what ever?

Thanks for your views.

-- Alan

[Carroll Courtney]

From what I gather from other posters is shipping damage and that happens quit often.So I would inspect the BS very closely for damage,other than that you should be good to go.If your new to using a BS(it being your first)I would check into a good mag. or book on using a it to its full potential.Set up is everything to a BS so take your time.Post some pics when it arrives and we'll all be excited---Carroll

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Alan,

Go to Amazon and order Mark Duginske's most recent book on bandsaws "The New Complete Guide To The Bandsaw". It contains a wealth of information and is an excellent "go to" reference. It costs under $14.

I had one..loaned it out...through some understandable circumstances, it never came back. I ordered another copy and got it last week to restock my reference library.

Excellent book...well written...full of knowledge.....well illustrated....excellent book!

No connection just a happy owner....twice now.

[Jeremy Treibs]

I have had the G0555x for a few years now.

I added the 6" riser with great results. The most annoying thing about putting the 6" riser on, besides the weight of the top portion, and doing it myselft, was that I had to find a humongous metric wrench to fit in the tiny opening where the connecting bolt goes through. I had to use a 6 foot level to make sure the wheels were co-planer (added a few shims. Easy). I like the riser because it raises the light and head/hand banging obsctuctions higher. If you use the extruded rip fence (its a good one for what it is) and do NOT have the riser, it will make moving the fence annoying (it works, but not alot of clearance between the fence and the top portion without the riser).
The fence does not have any channels for aftermarket resaw attachments (like the Kreg). You can build your own but have to get creative with attachment to the fence.

The dust collection sytem isnt that great. I heard someone earlier attempt at putting a second dust port under the table and the blade to help with dust collection on top of the table. They were thinking about using a part from the Ridgid 14" bandsaw. I am still looking into this idea.

Blade wise, I have both Timberwolf and Olson all pro. Both are good and you can find the olsons on sale quite often and a puy 2 or 3 get one from of the Timberwolf from suffolk machinery (spelling?) And I believe the G0555x is touted with coming with a Timberwolf from the get go.

I would recommend buying a set of the urethane tires to replace the rubber ones on the saw (the rubber ones will work for a while, so wait for a sale on the urethane ones). I like Rockler or Hartvilletool for sales of these.

[Jeff Mohr]

Good points above but I have to disagree with the factory blade. IT IS JUNK! Do a few more searches here and you may find I am not the only one that thinks this. Seriously, I attempted to set it all up with that blade and was very disappointed. If I were you, I'd grab a new olson or timberwolf blade and start with one of those. How much is your sanity worth. Also, if you order timberwolf blades, they are awesome but you may find they don't quite fit. Grizzly actually has a .pdf that they send on how to change a tiny thing that will make the blades fit MUCH better.

[Stephen Edwards]

This saw doesn't come with the Timberwolf blade. As others have mentioned, I'd get a better blade. Personally, I'm very pleased with the Timberwolfs that I've ordered directly from Suffolk Machinery. They're very knowledgeable and helpful. If you call them and explain what you want to do with the saw they'll recommend the right blades. I think they run a buy 3 get one free deal.

Before you install the table itself make sure that the lower blade guide assembly is perfectly parallel with trunion support that mounts to the lower arm of the saw.

This is a great 14" BS. I think you'll be very pleased with it, especially after you get the correct blades for your needs. Take your time getting to know your saw and enjoy it!!

[Alan East]

Thanks for all the answers.

I had a call from Grizzley about the order (I'd put the wrong date for the cc) and they emphazied checking for damage when the order arrives. Sounds like something they know about. I will make sure all is perfect. Woodcraft or Rockler has a sale on Timberwolf and Olsen blades so will get a Timberwolf. Will check Suffolk Machine too. Book is coming.

What is the advantage urethane?

--Alan

[Myk Rian]

Get a couple new blades. A 3/16" is good for tighter curves. 1/4" or 3/8" for general use.

[Prashun Patel]

I have the G0555. Here are my lessons learned (having felt as you seem to feel at the outset):

1) Buy the riser block. I didn't think I'd want to resaw, but when you need to do it, the risers are priceless. It's a hard thing to buy later, because it means you also have to replace your blades with longer ones. Do it now and don't regret it.

2) I found the stock blade to be junk. I have a 3/16" Timberwolf, and yes, it's the best for tighter curves. However, it's also IMHO harder to control than a thicker one - especially on long, sweeping curves. I much prefer a 1/2" 4TPI. It's more versatile, and can even cut fairly tight curves if you make relief cuts.

3) Don't get a 3/4" blade if you do ever want to resaw. Tensioning the blade properly was hard on my saw, and the lateral bearings don't go far enough forward to support the blade just behind the tooth set. I've had much better luck with a 1/2". It's been fine for my use.

[Howard Acheson]

I have had one for about 2 - 2 1/2 years. It replaced an old 14" Jet. It has worked very well. I ordered it with guide holders for Cool Block guides as I knew the roller guides were noisy and did not provide as much support for the blade(s). Other than that it's a standard 6" thickness capacity band saw.

In many cases, resaw capability over 6" is rarely needed. If frequent resawing is a big "must have" then there are other saws that would be a better choice.

I agree that you should buy the book suggested or buy "The Band Saw Book" by Lonnie Bird. Either one will help you set up and align the saw and will help you decide what suite of blades to purchase. Either book will tell you how to get the most out of your new saw.

BTW, mine arrived with no damage at all.

[Stephen Edwards]

I forgot to mention that mine, like Howard's, also arrived with no damage.

When the blade guide bearings wear out I'd suggest upgrading to a bit better bearing than the stock bearings that comes with the saw. They're not very expensive to replace and run much quieter.

A lot of these "little things" you'll figure out as you go along. I'm still learning and hope that I always will be!

[Robby Tacheny]

I also have the go555x w/ riser block. I have had it for just at a a year now with no problems.

1. I got a a Carter Stabilizer for cutting curves and really like it. It allows for a little more movement on the blade than the roller bearings do. I actually just used it to resaw a 3.5" board yesterday and it worked really well too!

2. The blade did work, but its nothing like a new Olson or equivalent blade. For cutting 3/4" boards or plywood I would imagine it might be fine. For 6" thick stock or resawing its got too many teeth for my liking. You have to feed very slowly.

Get someone to help you assemble it! The top is very heavy and hard to manage by yourself. I did it, but cussed and yelled. Unfortunately, I just didn't have any friends nearby to help me.

Enjoy your new saw!

-R

[Alan East]

Saw arrived in a couple of days, no damage. Two minor problems have come up. First I ordered one of the Shop Fox mobile bases. The female threads on the base for one of the leveler knobs are messed up. Both knobs work in one side but neither work in the other side. Haven't said anything to Grizzzly yet. Thought I'd see if a machine shop can thread it first. Second problem may be me. When I opened the saw the instruction book was under the saw, visible through the plastic but still actually under it. I couldn't lift the saw to get the booklet out. But had a senior moment and didn't consider cutting the plastic.:o I went ahead and put the metal base in the roller base then while my son was home I had him help lift the saw out to set it on the base. First thing they want you to do is put the rubber feet on the base. Since I hadn't thought to check for online instructions and didn't have the ones shipped with the saw I hadn't done that. Now I'm thinking that since I have a couple of problems I'll scab a 2 x 4 frame together, making it the same level as the base top and slide the saw to the wood base. Then make corrections and slide it back to the metal cabinet. No help to lift the saw again since my son went back to his apartment. failed to mention the saw weight 200#.