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Sean Hughes
12-13-2009, 9:11 AM
hello all....I have a Bradford White water heater. It was new in 2003. It's 50 gallons, natural gas fired with direct vent. Within the past couple of months, we have to adjust the water continually to keep it hot, even in the first shower of the day. We are on public water and i did a flush for any sediment last year and there wasn't any. I know on an electric that the elements can be replaced, but I'm not sure of the maintenance on a gas heater. Can the burners go? Any suggestions?

Thanks!!!

Al Willits
12-13-2009, 12:01 PM
hello all....I have a Bradford White water heater. It was new in 2003. It's 50 gallons, natural gas fired with direct vent. Within the past couple of months, we have to adjust the water continually to keep it hot, even in the first shower of the day. We are on public water and i did a flush for any sediment last year and there wasn't any. I know on an electric that the elements can be replaced, but I'm not sure of the maintenance on a gas heater. Can the burners go? Any suggestions?

Thanks!!!

If you want, post the model and at least the first 4 digits of the serial number, I'll see what I have monday when I go back to work.

Al

Pat Germain
12-13-2009, 12:05 PM
I have the same issue every Fall/Winter. I'm thinking it has more to do with the incoming water temperature than a problem with the water heater.

Some communities get water from multiple sources. Different sources have different temperatures.

I'm no plumbing expert. So, I would certainly welcome informed opinions. But right now I'm thinking as very cold water enters the tank during showers, the burners can't compensate and that's why we have to adjust the water mixture while showering.

I've looked into tankless water heaters. The reality doesn't match the hype. Based on my research, tankless water heaters don't do well when the water supply is very cold. Here in Colorado, that makes a tankless water heater a non-starter.

Sean Hughes
12-13-2009, 9:03 PM
Al,


Here ya go.

Model # MITW50L6EN12
Serial # ZB2817783

I forgot to mention that I looked on the website and it said it was manufactured in Feb of 2003. I talked with a couple people today and they thought either the thermostat was bad or the downtube was cracked or broken. I would think that there wouldn't be any heat if the thermostat was bad. Is there any way to test it? What about the downtube idea?

Jim Koepke
12-13-2009, 10:26 PM
Your dip tube may have fallen off.
There is a tube on the cold water inlet to take the cold water to the bottom of the tank. The hot water is taken from the top of the tank. If the tube falls off, then you can get cold water at the top of the tank.

There could also be a bubble of air in the tank, but that would normally dissipate after running the water a while.

jim

Dan Friedrichs
12-13-2009, 10:44 PM
Check the dip tube. If you shut off the water, drain the tank, and remove the overpressure valve, you can shine a flashlight in and see the tube nearly all the way to the bottom. Make sure it hasn't fallen off or broken.

I had a water heater of the same brand not working very well. Turns out the hot and cold were flipped around when installed.

Al Willits
12-14-2009, 10:29 AM
Al,


Here ya go.

Model # MITW50L6EN12
Serial # ZB2817783

I forgot to mention that I looked on the website and it said it was manufactured in Feb of 2003. I talked with a couple people today and they thought either the thermostat was bad or the downtube was cracked or broken. I would think that there wouldn't be any heat if the thermostat was bad. Is there any way to test it? What about the downtube idea?


Can you check the model please, we're having a bit of trouble making it work, thanks.

Also make sure you don't have a mixing valave style of fascet, that's the one lever style where you control your hot and cold with one control.
If you can shut the water off to the water heater only and not the house, try turning the mixing valave to the hotest position and on, you should get very little water out of it.

Also here's some info that may help for now

Thermostat must be satisfied,draw and measure at least 21 gals (30 gal heater) or 25 gals (40 gal heater) of water at the closest tap. Take note of original draw temp.
There should be no more than a 10-20 degree drop in temp.

Older water heater thermostats should open (come on) in 3-5 gals of water, and newer ones with the shorter dip tubes (??) are allowed a 30 degree drop in temp.

Thermostat differential test.
Thermostat must be satisfied, draw water from the tank drain valve, measure the initial water temp, and note temp when thermostat comes on, the difference should be10-15 degree's.

water heater capacity
A residential water heater should deliver at least 60% of its rated capacity before a 30 degree drop in temperature is experienced.
example: 40 gallon tank you should be able to draw 24 gallons and get about a 30 degree temp drop---but also consider colder incoming water temps
Normal differential range for a gas wh is 15-25 degrees and 5-15 degrees on electrics (thermostat differential)

None of this is in stone, but its probably close.
Al

Sean Hughes
12-14-2009, 2:46 PM
Thanks for all the information. Al, I checked again and the numbers match what I wrote earlier. Where's the best place to buy a dip tube from? Are they expensive?

Al Willits
12-15-2009, 9:21 AM
Thanks for all the information. Al, I checked again and the numbers match what I wrote earlier. Where's the best place to buy a dip tube from? Are they expensive?


Could be we just don't have info on it, its happened before.

Try a appliance parts store or plumbing supply house.
You may get a generic one and have to trim length to fit, maybe ask where you buy it.

If you have to un solder anything to remove the old one, be careful installing the new one, we've seen where the installer got the copper pipe to hot and melted the dip tube.

Usually pretty cheap, $10-20 I'd think.

Al