globe/icicle ornament question

[Dan Forman]

Am I correct in assuming that the block for the globe is oriented so that you hollow into the endgrain? In the Bob Rosand article, he doesn't really specify (he is using burl, which is basically all end grain). But he does recommend using a glueblock. This would imply gluing long grain to end grain, which is considered a weak glue joint. Is it good enough for turning?

Dan

[David Walser]

Am I correct in assuming that the block for the globe is oriented so that you hollow into the endgrain? In the Bob Rosand article, he doesn't really specify (he is using burl, which is basically all end grain). But he does recommend using a glueblock. This would imply gluing long grain to end grain, which is considered a weak glue joint. Is it good enough for turning?

Dan

Yes, it's good enough for turning -- assuming you don't get a catch! To make the joint stronger, use a Forstner bit to drill a shallow hole in your glue block and turn a matching tenon on your blank. Properly done (and once the glue's cured), you'll have a very strong joint -- one that should survive a catch.

HTH

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I've always used a slightly longer blank and parted off when finished hollowing, but David's suggestion of the tenon would work very well also.

[John Keeton]

Dan, I am really glad you are ahead of me on this path! You are asking all the questions I wanted to ask.

I apologize for the intrusion Dan, but can I ask a couple of follow up questions?

Would you take the unturned blank, with extra length, and drill the initial access hole beyond the length of the hollowed area - such that when it is parted off there is a hole in either end? Did that make sense?

Then turn a tenon on the other end? Will the tailstock center do OK with a 3/8" hole?

And, could one use a collet chuck for holding the tenon and turning the whole center form? I used one to turn the drawer knobs, and it worked great for that.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Dan I don't use a glue block. I do like Leo and make my blank slightly longer, turn it round and mount in a chuck. I form the globe and follow pretty much what Bob Rosand does by drilling all the way thru. Then when parted off the hole is centered on both ends. I did get a couple of his tools and his 1/4" round skew which works really well on delicate finials.

John as far as your collet chuck it would probably work if you took really light cuts. If it is the same collet chuck I have the largest tenon that it will take is a 3/4" and I would be a little leary especially if you are turning some hard wood with the tenon breaking or twisting off with so little wood being held. I sent you a PM with some links to Rosands site. He has some tutorials there that are excellent and I think will answer your questions.

[Dan Forman]

Thanks to all.

John, looks like Bernie already answered your questions.

Dan

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I use the longer blank and turn the outside shape, and leave about a fairly thick part at the top, then I drill but only to the depth I will hollow the ball, when finished with hollowing I will drill though the top end with a drill size that will be just bigger than what the neck is and the ball will be free, I will often make the neck a little smaller before drilling through.
Doing it this way there's more wood while hollowing and less chance it will break out