Requesting a Crash Course in Finishing

[Eric Jacobson]

I'm a newbie turner, about to give some bowls as gifts for Christmas. These bowls could be used to store earrings or serve snacks like peanuts. I'm not sure what people will do with them.

I don't want to repeat the mistake I make this summer, where I gave a bowl to a friend and after she washed it, the wax came off in blotches and looked terrible. That bowl was finished with Mahoney oil wax finish, apparently I did something wrong...maybe you can't get it wet for several months or something?

So what are your recommendations for me? I have 1.5 weeks left and I have the following stuff in my basement to work with:


Pure expeller pressed Walnut Oil (I've already soaked some bowls with this)
Johnson's Paste Wax
Wipe-on Poly
Deft Wipe-on Danish oil
Wipe-on Poly
Mahoney Utility Finish
Mahoney Oil Wax
The Beall Buffing System

[Steve Schlumpf]

Eric - for dry items - like earrings or peanuts - I like to use wipe-on poly. It is a film finish and can be glossy or flat, depending on what you want. You can wipe the bowl clean with a damp paper towel but I do not suggest immersing it in water. If you are going to use a wax at all - I suggest going with Renaissance wax as it doesn't show fingerprints or watermarks like carnuba.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Eric on utility items I use two things. Mahoney's walnut oil (not the oil/wax) or minwax Antique Oil at least 3 coats. On items used for like earrings, change, candy, etc. I use wipe on poly or minwax lacquer. I really don't like using wax and it will come off then it looks terrible IMHO. I have not had good luck using any wax on utility items. My wife has several candy dishes and just wipes them with a damp cloth. We have several small bowls with mahoney's walnut oil on them used for salads, gravies, etc. and just wash them with warm soapy water, rinse and dry with a paper towel. Don't let the food sit in them for long. Let them air dry. Depending on how much one uses them in a year or so wipe on some more walnut oil.

[Dan Forman]

Here is a good resource for finishing: http://www.woodturnerruss.com/FinishingSecrets.html

Dan

[Roger Wilson]

+1 for Wipe-On-Poly. Three to eight coats. A gentle sanding with 600 grit sandpaper between coats.

[Paul Atkins]

You didn't do anything wrong - she washed it. I would probably use the Danish oil as a first choice, then some form of urethane (polyeurethane. You never know what someone will do to your creations - like the dishwasher.

[Curt Fuller]

I have to agree with what Paul said. You kind of have to include some directions on taking care of the bowl and whatever finish you use. If it's going to be for "dry" use any finish you like will work. But if it's going to get washed, by hand or God forbid in the dishwasher, you need to let them know how to re-finish it when it starts looking bad. And in my opinion the oil finishes work best for re-applying when they need it. There's an oil I've just started using, Deftoil, that works very well. I think it's like danish oil but with a urethane added so it drys better. It seems to be very similar to Minwax antique oil but I can buy it locally without having to mail order.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Since you listed WOP 2 times, that must be your favorite! It's rapidly becoming my favorite. I do still prefer oils, Watco, Antique or Tung oil blends. I stay away from Linseed oil, ever since I had a near miss on spontaneous combustion. Given your time frame, I'd go with the WOP, as mentioned above. You can get 3 or 4 coats a day. Let dry a few days, sand and reapply, let dry really good, then buff. There are as many different ways to finish as there are members.....

I also do wonder how the wax fell off, unless she tossed it in the dishwasher..... I try to remember to tell people that wood bowls are NOT dishwasher safe. I hope people who get my bowls use them, but not toss them in the DW.

[Eric Jacobson]

Thanks to all for the suggestions. You've eased my mind and shown me there are no easy answers to this question.



Utility bowls - I'm slathering them in pure walnut oil. It's wonderful stuff to work with. I can actually lick my fingers after wards. Which is a far cry from the chemical stickiness of wipe-on poly. Plus, I'm convinced that no matter what you tell people, the bowls are going to be washed and scrubbed. It seems more feasible that users could restore their own bowls with an oil of their choice.
For the pepper grinder, I'm going to use the wipe-on poly. I do have a question about buffing this. Should I buff with just the white diamond powder or do I need the tripoli? Also, what speed do you guys buff at?

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Some have mentioned that walnut oil may go rancid?

For buffing, do NOT use white diamond on walnut or the darker woods, as it can get stuck in the pores and you will never get it out. Buffing speeds are as varied as finish choices. A friend of mine buffs at 3600 and a 10 or 12" wheel. I buff at 1725.