Question on Kerosene heaters..

[Dennis McGarry]

Ok just picked up a duraheat 23k btu kerosene heater, like new, for 30 bucks.

I was wondering if anyone has used one of these in a shop? I have about a 20x20 shop, all windows and ITS COLD! Up until the last couple days was using two small 1500watt elec heaters and it was ok in there, but these past days no way, just not happening.

So looking to see if this might work, or should I keep one half sectioned off even with it? How are they around dust?

Thanks
Dennis

[Eric Sayre]

I used a 10,600 BTU Kerosene heater for about 3 years in my shop (attached garage - no insulation on 3 sides.) Inside measurements of my shop are 19' x 23'. It worked great, but it took a while to heat up. If it was 30 degrees, it would take an hour or two before I would step into the shop. Below 20 degrees, I would let it warm up 3-4 hours before it was in the low 50's.

I have an electric heater (220volt) that is 16,000 BTU and it is perfect. When it's below 30 degrees, it only takes 30 minutes to get comfortable.

I'd say that your heater will do an excellent job of heating.

One thing to keep an eye on - Water is a by-product of burning Kerosene, so there will be some humidity in the shop if you run it on high - when the shop is very cold. I never had a visible build-up of moisture on my equipment because my heater didn't put off much heat and everything in the shop warmed up slowly. (The condensation was drawn to the windows.)

You may want to start the heater on low and let it warm up slowly on very cold days, until the shop is in the mid 40's or so, then crank it up. This will help keep the condensation on the windows where it belongs.

[Dennis McGarry]

Ok thanks,

Got it setup, just waiting on the 60 mins the manual says to let it sit after re-fueling since i dont know how long it has been since it was used.

How effiecent are these on buring the fuel? 2.5 gallons is 12 bucks, hopefully pretty efficent..

I left the shop door open as well as it sits, cause i can smell the kerosene. What is the usual storage technique for these when done for the day?

Dennis

[Eric Sayre]

Mine would use about a gallon in two days of hanging out in the shop, 10,600 BTU model) but it depends on how far you turn it up.

When done for the day, you simply shut them off & let them cool. They will put off a lot of fumes once you shut them down, though. You'll want to "run it dry" at the end of the season.

You will want to buy some Kerosene Fuel Additive to help tame the fumes. I found some at walmart that cost about 5 bucks and lasted 3 years. You can find some on Amazon for about the same price.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Don't forget, a kerosene heater not vented to outside will produce carbon monoxide. Keep a window cracked to let in some fresh air.
fmr

[Eric Sayre]

Don't forget, a kerosene heater not vented to outside will produce carbon monoxide. Keep a window cracked to let in some fresh air.
fmr

Very good point!

My garage door doesn't seal well at all, so I get a "slight breeze" through some of the cracks. This was enough to ventilate my shop. You may need to slightly crack a window. Your heater will still heat the space quite well.

[Thomas Pender]

Buy a carbon monoxide detector. A cracked window might do it, but the problem with CO is that it will overwhem you - fast. Personally, I would never use a kerosine heater in a shop and I mean never. Too many issues with humidity, fumes, CO, finish ignition on vapors, etc. But, then again, I am super cautious.

[Jim Kountz]

I used one in my shop for years and still do on the coldest of days. They are slow to warm an area but they do maintain the temp very well even on the low settings. Other than the smell they are great heaters.

[Jim Becker]

I used to have one for my shop, but only used it on the really, really cold days to get the temp up initially. My radiant electric units were then able to maintain it. I didn't like the fumes, however, and when it stopped working correctly, I threw it out. I just make due with the electrical units now and if I can't get comfortable, I just don't work out there...but that's a rare day around here. I will likely get a 240v, thermostatically controlled fan-driven type header to hang from the ceiling one of these days. (Farenheat, or similar)

[Bill Blackburn]

RE: Your Post

Begs the question Jim - what do you, personally, consider to be to "cold" to be in shop? When you cannot do a proper glue up, when one has chilly hands, or ??
I don't consider today real "cold" here - the temp at home is about minus 15, but I'm in the TC's for few days and it is 8 above. 300 miles and 23 degree swing. Aaaah MN.
Curious as to what cold is to some and maybe helps me understand all the varying answers to heat related questions better. Heck - I haven't even grabbed my winter coat from the truck yet and been 2 days I been here:D
This is almost balmy to me - snow, some moisture in the air and 8 degrees. Wonderful day

[Dennis McGarry]

Well if I am out sledding, then cold is when the sled wont start! :)

When I am in the shop, cold is when the hands hurt and cords dont move..

[Lee Schierer]

Don't forget, a kerosene heater not vented to outside will produce carbon monoxide. Keep a window cracked to let in some fresh air.
fmr

Yes and install a carbon monoxide detector and if it goes off, turn off the heater and get out leaving the door open.

I've been in a couple of shops where kerosene heaters were used and I didn't care for the fumes either..

[Mike Gager]

would a propane heater work better?

i was at ace hardware and they had a 5 gallon bucket of kerosene and it was like $50. seems pretty expensive, anyone know how long would that last?

[Heather Thompson]

Dennis,

I have owned a kerosene heater for over twenty years, I would buy my fuel in bulk from a local gas station and it was alot cheaper than going to the BORG or Ace hardware, I just checked prices on the internet and you should be able to find it for about 3.29 per gallon in your area. Personally I did not like the smell and my shop would drip with condensation on some days, a few years back I picked up a "Hot One" at the end of the season on clearance at Menards, best move I ever made. My shop is very well insulated with common walls and ceiling to the home, garage/shop door is insulated as well, I have tested at below zero and can get to over 90 degrees. The Hot One is a 240 volt heater, I have the smaller unit and am very happy with it, here is a link for them. http://www.cadetco.com/show_product.php?prodid=1012

I heat the shop 24/7 and the expense is very resonable, we live in the same area and my shop is currently 68.2 degrees, when machines and dust collection are running the heater never comes on.

Heather

[Phillip Bogle]

Bill:
I guess that depends on what you are used to. We had a cold front and the coldest temps on record. Got down to 15 !

Where I live it seldom goes above 80 and or below 30. We get a lot of rain, 240 days a year, and a wet year is 130 inches, and a light year is 60 inches. So it really depends on what you are used to. I have been to places where the cold and heat felt different, if that makes any sense.
Phil

[Dennis Hatchett]

Kerosene heaters are good as a supplemental heat source. The liabilities of Kerosene heat are significant and most have been mentioned already. I drag out my kerosene heater on the extra cold snaps that we have a few times each winter when it gets below zero in the high desert of Central Oregon. It is effective at just getting it warmed up to the workable comfort zone. Then I shut it down.

Finishing and glue-ups simply need a moderate temperature base to avoid the snags and unpredictable outcomes that will lead to time consuming corrective work. The kerosene heat source gives the shop a temperature boost and takes the strain off of my main electric coil heater.

Here is a tip. It seems that most of the odor from my wick burning kerosene heater comes at start up and shut down of the heater. It smokes for a minute and the odor is quite strong. I reinforced my handle so I can confidently carry the heater out on the stoop to light it up and allow that smoky start up smell to vent away before bringing it in the shop. Then I take it back outside to shut it down once the shop gets to a workable temp. I really don't notice the odor if I am diligent in observing those two easy precautions. Also, get a barbecue starter with a long reach and you won't have to get on your knees to light it.