Need advice on box making

[Dave Anthony]

I've been asked to make some small jewlery/keepsake boxes, and am kindof at a loss as to were to begin. I have a reasonably well equipped shop - table saw, bandsaw, router, scroll saw, sanders, etc. & a fair amount of hardwood left over from other projects, most of which have been much larger - an entertainment center, bookcases, printer cabinet, table, etc. Most of the wood is 3/4" or larger, which seems too thick for a small box. Would you plane down to 1/2"? Seems a shame to waste the wood, especially if it's something nice. If I resaw I'd get 3/8 minus the saw kerf, considering my lack of skill at resawing might wind up with 1/4", which seems too thin. Would you cut a veneer & glue to plywood? For example, I would like to use this board, which is birdseye maple & rosewood, 4 3/4" x 48". I could use this to make the box, or use it as an accent with other woods. I have cherry, walnut, maple, bubinga, & some small pieces of rosewood. Any recommendations for books? I'm also somewhat concerned with safely cutting small parts. Also any pics of boxes you've made & comments on construction techniques would be greatly appreciated.

[Glen Blanchard]

Here is the rule of thumb that I use. Following this will give you proportions that are pleasing to the eye.


Total Perimeter .............Stock Thickness
< 16"..................................5/16"
16" - 30"..............................3/8"
30" - 50"..............................1/2"
> 50"....................................5/8"

[Brian W Evans]

Dave,

I can't offer much advice regarding the resawing, but do a search on this forum and you'll find a lot of good info. As for books, I have two words for you:

Doug Stowe (http://www.amazon.com/BASIC-BOX-MAKING-Doug-Stowe/dp/B000UZS7ZA/)

Actually, that's a DVD. Get the book with the same title to keep in the shop. Possibly the best $16 you'll spend on anything box-related.

Finally, check out the projects forum here for countless great boxes. There are some exceptionally talented box makers here.

Best of luck.

[Myk Rian]

I've made small boxes using 1/4" material. It isn't a problem.
A couple ways to do it;
Use a locking rabbet joint, or a box/finger joint. Both work well, but the box joint would be best.

[John Harden]

Here is the rule of thumb that I use. Following this will give you proportions that are pleasing to the eye.


Total Perimeter .............Stock Thickness
< 16"..................................5/16"
16" - 30"..............................3/8"
30" - 50"..............................1/2"
> 50"....................................5/8"

Glen, thanks for posting this. Those are pretty handy reference points and based on your dimensions, I bet it is pleasing to the eye. I'll be sure to book mark this.

Regarding making boxes, resawing works well, as does planing. You're right in that planing waste's wood, but since boxes are usually small, you really won't be wasting all that much. Small projects require dead flat and square stock as any warp, cut, twist, bow, etc., will really show up.

Starting with 3/4" prior to jointing/planing it down to thickness allows for the necessary waste material.

One technique I've used and like is to build the box solid, then cut off the top on your table saw, using tape and shims to hold it square after cutting through each of the four sides. This will not only give you a perfect grain match, but the top and bottom will be perfectly sized to fit one another.

Good luck!!!!!!!

Regards,

John

[John Browne]

+1 on Doug Stowe's books. Haven't seen the DVD, but his books are outstanding. Smaller boxes need thinner stock, as you surmised. One thing you'll find is that smaller projects have less room for error than bigger projects. So proceed carefully. Also, Doug kind of skips over this: if you're going to use miter splines, get a flat top grind saw blade to cut the slots, or else cut them on the router table with a slot cutter. Otherwise you'll wreck your box. DAMHIKT.

[Myk Rian]

I use my Incra jig and a 1/4" upcut bit to make the box joints on my RT.

[Ed Sallee]

I've made a few boxes and have blogged some of the builds from start to finish. Feel free to take a look and see if you can find any info in there that you can use. Here's a link to one of them (http://waxingmoonwood.ning.com/profiles/blogs/box-for-christine)...

[Dave Anthony]

Thanks guys, this is exactly the kind of thing I was looking for. Glen, the reference thickness is very useful. Ed - the step by step tutorial is great - I wouldn't have thought to bevel the sides of the box, it adds a lot.
John Browne said: "Also, Doug kind of skips over this: if you're going to use miter splines, get a flat top grind saw blade to cut the slots, or else cut them on the router table with a slot cutter. Otherwise you'll wreck your box." Is this because a cross cut or combo blade leaves a slot with an inverted V like this: ^? Is a rip blade suitable?

[Robby Tacheny]

I have 4 more suggestions.

1. Do an advanced search on "box" in the woodworking projects section on this site for ideas.

2. Go to the library. Mine has 2 box making books. One by Taunton Press (Doug Stowe) and one by David Freeman. If you live in a larger area, they might have more.

3. www.etsy.com (http://www.etsy.com) - Search jewelry box, keepsake box, etc. Then sort by highest price. They have some great wood combinations. Also, everything is handmade.

4. Google image search.

That should keep you busy for a few weeks! :D

-R

[Glen Blanchard]

John Browne said: "Also, Doug kind of skips over this: if you're going to use miter splines, get a flat top grind saw blade to cut the slots, or else cut them on the router table with a slot cutter. Otherwise you'll wreck your box." Is this because a cross cut or combo blade leaves a slot with an inverted V like this: ^? Is a rip blade suitable?

Exactly Dave. You will get a much cleaner result with a blade that cuts a totally flat bottom. A ripping blade is ideal for this. Do all ripping blades leave a flat bottom? I'm not sure they do. When I bought my Freud Diablo ripping blade I checked specifically for this prior to purchase.

[John Browne]

Exactly Dave. You will get a much cleaner result with a blade that cuts a totally flat bottom. A ripping blade is ideal for this. Do all ripping blades leave a flat bottom? I'm not sure they do. When I bought my Freud Diablo ripping blade I checked specifically for this prior to purchase.

Woodcraft sells a WWII with a FTG which will leave a nice flat bottom for splines. Or, you can get a blade reground (this is what I did). I couldn't find a FTG rip blade anywhere :(

[Adam Slutsky]

Dave: I recently read a nice book called Box-Making Basics - Design, Technique, Projects by David M. Freedman (Taunton Press 1997) and it had some nice advice and some great photos of small boxes. I got it from my local library and I'm not sure if it is still in print but I would highly recommend it.

[johnny means]

One way to get your best yields would be to cut one slice of veneer and one panel from each 3/4" piece.

[Dave Anthony]

Well, I ordered some books from Amazon, I thought while waiting for them to arrive I'd try to make some boxes. We have a cioppino party every year (a fish stew, very good if you like shellfish). My step daughter asked "what are you giving out as party favors?" Last year my wife handed out Christmas ornaments with chocolate squares inside, this is this years version. Things I learned:

1. Firm pressure against the resaw fence improved results.
2. As Myk said, 1/4" isn't a problem. I did have issues with tearout when using a miter trimmer, a sharp blade & sliding table worked well.
3. A pencil eraser on the end of a new pencil makes a dandy push stick.
4. I tried sizing the tops with sandpaper, a shoulder plane & a sharp chisel. The chisel seemed to work best.

[richard poitras]

I second any of Doug Stowe’s books and DVD’s. I have the “Basic Box Making” book and DVD set and it is a great learning tool if you are just learning. A lot of tricks and information.

Richard