My Grizzly G0661 TS "problem"???

[Harold Burrell]

OK...don't laugh...I think I may already know the answer, but...just in case...

I have a Griz G0661 TS. I've had it since August. I like it. However, I am noticing lately that it is seriously bogging down on some cuts. For instance, I was "resawing" a pine 2x4 today (you know, half way thru then flipping it over and finishing) and it was laboring to do it.

I don't hear anything out of the ordinary (other than the bog-down).

By the way...the blade I am using is the one that came with the saw. However, I am not seeing a lot of burn.

[Caleb Larru]

OK...don't laugh...I think I may already know the answer, but...just in case...

I have a Griz G0661 TS. I've had it since August. I like it. However, I am noticing lately that it is seriously bogging down on some cuts. For instance, I was "resawing" a pine 2x4 today (you know, half way thru then flipping it over and finishing) and it was laboring to do it.

I don't hear anything out of the ordinary (other than the bog-down).

By the way...the blade I am using is the one that came with the saw. However, I am not seeing a lot of burn.

Get a better blade. That is the only thing I wasn't impressed with on their saw.

[scott spencer]

Come on now ....you spent good money on the saw and need to put an appropriate blade on it. ;) The saw is no better than the alignment and blade selection.

For resawing you'd be better off with a 24T FTG TK ripper like the Freud LU87, Infinity 010-124, DW7124PT, Amana AGE, or CMT. That blade would be a nice compliment to a 60T blade like the Infinity 010-060 or Freud LU88.

[Harold Burrell]

Come on now ....you spent good money on the saw and need to put an appropriate blade on it. ;) The saw is no better than the alignment and blade selection.

For resawing you'd be better off with a 24T FTG TK ripper like the Freud LU87, Infinity 010-124, DW7124PT, Amana AGE, or CMT. That blade would be a nice compliment to a 60T blade like the Infinity 010-060 or Freud LU88.

OK...that brings me to another question...

What would be a good general purpose blade to start with? (Keep in mind...I don't have much $$$)

And where would be a good place to get it?

[Caleb Larru]

OK...that brings me to another question...

What would be a good general purpose blade to start with? (Keep in mind...I don't have much $$$)

And where would be a good place to get it?

You will be best suited with a thin kerf blade. The Freud LU83R thin kerf combination blade is a good one. I have had lots of luck with it and have been able to find them for around 45 bucks. Try Rockler, Amazon or ebay.

[scott spencer]

OK...that brings me to another question...

What would be a good general purpose blade to start with? (Keep in mind...I don't have much $$$)

And where would be a good place to get it?

Yeah...a good thin kerf blade would be well suited for you saw. About the least expensive that's going to be worth having is something like the Freud Diablo D1040 (~ $30 at HD and other places). The Freud Avanti TK306 is clearance priced from Peachtree (http://www.ptreeusa.com/edirect_120809.htm)...prolly some shipping though. If you're willing to spend more, something like the Infinity Combomax Lite 010-150 (http://www.infinitytools.com/Combination-Saw-Blades/products/1196/)will give great results in lots of situations....on sale for $60. Holbren has good deals on the CMT line...the CMT ITK 256.050.10 (http://www.holbren.com/product.php?productid=4729&cat=884&page=1)is ~ $43 shipped with "SMC10" discount code.

If you'd prefer a full kerf blade, the Delta 35-7657 is on sale from Cripe Distribution (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330335100993&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT) for $17 plus s/h....really nice deal.

[Harold Burrell]

I appreciate the feedback guys. But doesn't a TK blade wobble more?

[Ken Higginbotham]

I'm a rookie but I did notice a world of difference when I used a thin kerf ripping blade.

[Dave Hasson]

Just remember that if you use a thin kerf blade your riving knife won't work.

[glenn bradley]

I appreciate the feedback guys. But doesn't a TK blade wobble more?

Not that I have ever noticed. I would imagine that on a saw that wasn't setup correctly that required you to force the material through the cut as opposed to guide it through, a TK would be easier to deflect.

I only have one full kerf blade left which is an FTG blade I use like an 1/8" dado blade. The other half dozen or so are all TK. I used to use stabilizers but after my last maintenance/alignment I have left those behind as well. A good setup frees you from a lot of tablesaw "problems" :).

Dave H. makes a good point that you will need the appropriate RK. Grizzly's manual for this saw recommends against TK blades as it appears the solution for wanting to use one is to remove the RK which is unfortunate. At 2HP you are right at the entrance level of power for a full kerf blade IMHO. It does not appear that they offer a TK knife(???) . . . . Papa Grizz???

[scott spencer]

Just remember that if you use a thin kerf blade your riving knife won't work.

Good point about making sure the blade and riving knife are compatible, but Griz shows the riving knife at 0.092" and it has a tapered front. Most thin kerf blades are ~ 3/32" (~ 0.094 to 0.100") and shouldn't pose a problem. An ultra thin kerf blade of less than 0.09 would be an issue, but most common TK's should be fine.

[Harold Burrell]

Just remember that if you use a thin kerf blade your riving knife won't work.

Oh, yeah. That's right...:eek:

[Rod Sheridan]

When I had a low powered saw ( 1 1/4 HP) I used high quality standard kerf blades from FS Tools.

I used a rip blade and a crosscut blade, which work far better than a do-all type of approach.

Purchase a good blade from an industrial saw supplier, you'll get a better balde for less money than you will at the retail level.


There are no real savings on cheap blades...........Regards, Rod.

[Harold Burrell]

When I had a low powered saw ( 1 1/4 HP) I used high quality standard kerf blades from FS Tools.

I used a rip blade and a crosscut blade, which work far better than a do-all type of approach.

Purchase a good blade from an industrial saw supplier, you'll get a better balde for less money than you will at the retail level.


There are no real savings on cheap blades...........Regards, Rod.

OK...truth be known...I don't like the thought of having to change blades very often. Sorry...I'm lazy. But, in order to do this right, I probably should, huh?

So...that gets me to thinking and evaluating.

#1. I already have a nice crosscut blade (a Freud Avanti 80T) that I have never used. :o

2. I do WAY more ripping (and occasional resawing) than I do crosscutting.

So...how about a good ripping blade?

Thank you guys for "holding my hand" through this. :D

[Ken Higginbotham]

The primary deal (as I understand it), with a ripping blade is that there are fewer teeth which means the saw dust does not get clogged up between the teeth as easy. If you have a lot of teeth then you could be trying to push the stock through against the saw dust instead of against the blade teeth... Hope that makes sense...

[scott spencer]

OK...truth be known...I don't like the thought of having to change blades very often. Sorry...I'm lazy. But, in order to do this right, I probably should, huh?

So...that gets me to thinking and evaluating.

#1. I already have a nice crosscut blade (a Freud Avanti 80T) that I have never used. :o

2. I do WAY more ripping (and occasional resawing) than I do crosscutting.

So...how about a good ripping blade?

Thank you guys for "holding my hand" through this. :D

"...For resawing you'd be better off with a 24T FTG TK ripper like the Freud LU87, Infinity 010-124, DW7124PT, Amana AGE, or CMT.... "

A good quality TK blade shouldn't suffer from deflection issues on a saw that's setup well and spinning true, even without a stabilizer, unless there's a runout or vibration issue of some sort. I've never run into that as an issue with dozens of good TK blades I've used. Especially if the wood is straight and flat.

[glenn bradley]

OK...truth be known...I don't like the thought of having to change blades very often. Sorry...I'm lazy. But, in order to do this right, I probably should, huh?

On the upside, I hear folks say this so much that I started to watch the second hand on the shop clock when I would change blades. Moving at an unhurried pace, it takes about 60 - 70 seconds to change a blade including swapping the ZCI, putting the previously mounted ZCI and blade on their hangers and returning the wrenches to their hook.

I think if you timed yourself a couple times you would find that the benefit outweighs the effort. Its kinda like doing my taxes; its not that hard but I put it off because I dread it for no valid reason:D.