Heath Markovetz
12-09-2009, 10:38 PM
Hi Everyone,
I'm pretty new here and getting a garage shop outfitted to start building general furniture for around our house. (Beginning with a dresser for the baby that we're expecting in March!)
I happened to find a decent deal on a Craftsman 22124 table saw and I'm absolutely thrilled with it. I did run into something I wanted to ask about though.
As you may know, this saw adjusts the bevel stops for 45 and 90 with a set-screw threaded through the cast-iron top itself.
I noticed when I first tilted the saw that they feel a little "soft" when the trunnion hits them. This feeling comes as a contrast to my using a Jet cabinet saw for a couple years in a cabinet shop. I distinctly remember when that saw would hit 45 or 90 it was a solid "THUNK"
I stumbled upon the (at least partial) cause for this "soft" feeling when my fence (biesemeyer) was clunking as I slid it from left to right over the left miter slot. I also noted some dragging on the table to the left of the blade. When I first eyeballed it I saw a fairly large hump right there. I thought I got a lemon and would just have to deal with it but shortly concluded that it was the 90 degree stop that the trunnion was actually pushing up on and causing the hump. I backed off the set-screw and the table now appears reasonably flat. (I haven't laid a straightedge on it.) The fence now slides very nicely except for a warped blade insert that will be replaced very soon with a Leecraft that's already hanging on the pegboard.
I guess I just wanted to spark a little conversation about this, with a few points in particular.
First of all, is it supposed to be like this? In looking at pictures of the workings with the top removed I don't see how it could be avoided or improved... Am I wrong in that? Is there some way I can make this better?
What is different on other saws that makes the bevel stops so positive and distinct? Is it just a thicker table and heavier trunnions? Or do other saws put the stops somewhere with more leverage against the tilting of the saw?
Thanks in advance for any insight shared. I find myself on here daily and always find fantastic information. Thanks for that as well.
Heath
I'm pretty new here and getting a garage shop outfitted to start building general furniture for around our house. (Beginning with a dresser for the baby that we're expecting in March!)
I happened to find a decent deal on a Craftsman 22124 table saw and I'm absolutely thrilled with it. I did run into something I wanted to ask about though.
As you may know, this saw adjusts the bevel stops for 45 and 90 with a set-screw threaded through the cast-iron top itself.
I noticed when I first tilted the saw that they feel a little "soft" when the trunnion hits them. This feeling comes as a contrast to my using a Jet cabinet saw for a couple years in a cabinet shop. I distinctly remember when that saw would hit 45 or 90 it was a solid "THUNK"
I stumbled upon the (at least partial) cause for this "soft" feeling when my fence (biesemeyer) was clunking as I slid it from left to right over the left miter slot. I also noted some dragging on the table to the left of the blade. When I first eyeballed it I saw a fairly large hump right there. I thought I got a lemon and would just have to deal with it but shortly concluded that it was the 90 degree stop that the trunnion was actually pushing up on and causing the hump. I backed off the set-screw and the table now appears reasonably flat. (I haven't laid a straightedge on it.) The fence now slides very nicely except for a warped blade insert that will be replaced very soon with a Leecraft that's already hanging on the pegboard.
I guess I just wanted to spark a little conversation about this, with a few points in particular.
First of all, is it supposed to be like this? In looking at pictures of the workings with the top removed I don't see how it could be avoided or improved... Am I wrong in that? Is there some way I can make this better?
What is different on other saws that makes the bevel stops so positive and distinct? Is it just a thicker table and heavier trunnions? Or do other saws put the stops somewhere with more leverage against the tilting of the saw?
Thanks in advance for any insight shared. I find myself on here daily and always find fantastic information. Thanks for that as well.
Heath