Shortening a drill press

[Chuck Isaacson]

So I am looking at drill presses. Lots out there. For those of you that don't know me, I a in a wheelchair. The issue is that a normal drill press is just a little too big for me. And yes you might just say, why not get a benchtop? The answer, with a benchtop, I need to build a cart or cabinet or something to get close to it. That means that I am leaning forward and not as supported as I might want to be. If I had a normal drill press, I could get closer to the workpiece by rolling under the table. I was wondering if one might just be able to cut the post down a few inches or so. General Tools in Canada make a "wheelchair accessible" drill press (http://www.general.ca/site_access/a_produits/AC34-01.html), but it comes at a hefty price. I know that it is probably a good tool, but still not worth $1800 in my eyes for as much as I would use it. I can get a lot of drill press for that much money. The overall height for that drill press is 57 1/2". That is about the perfect height I think. Unfortunately they dont exactly have one around for me to try out. I think that I am the only one in the US with my saw. The General Access 650 Cabinet Saw (http://www.general.ca/site_access/a_produits/AC650Re.html). That I did spring for because if there is one tool that I want to use safely, that is it. Did not want to rig that one up. It was well worth the money that I spent on it. It has been the workhorse of the shop. I just know that lots of people like Grizzly, present poster included, and was thinking that maybe I might get one of those some day. We will see. If you have done anything like this or have taken these things apart and know if it can be done, please let me know. Thanks.

Chuck

[Thomas Canfield]

I think that you can cut the post on most of the floor models to lower the head down to the required operating height. One advantage of using a floor unit is the additional quill travel and depth over the benchtop units. A new drill requires assembling the post to floor and head, and the post could be shortened before assembly fairly easily. A used unit would require removing either the base or head but even that would be fairly easy to do. You will need assistance for new or used most likely.

[Matt Meiser]

It should even be pretty easy to cut down. On some, it really wouldn't matter at all if you just hacked the end off with a torch and filed of the slag (though I'd do it neater than that :)) because the ends don't even register against anything.

[Kevin Groenke]

Most drill presses I've looked at have a simple "tube and sleeve" holding both the base and the head to the column. The 2 deltas in our shop just use set screws to hold things in place. You may have to modify the height or length of the height adjustment rack and possibly need to drill a couple locating holes in the column, but neither would hamper the functionality of the machine. It may be as simple is removing the base(or head), shortening the column with a sawsall (or similar) and re-attaching.

-kg

[Chuck Isaacson]

Thanks guys. That is kind of what I was thinking but I just wasn't sure. I have never seen one apart or put one together. The quill travel is another reason that I did want a floor model as well.

Chuck

[Jeff Willard]

I cut the column down on a Jet for a friend that was building a bowling pro shop. No problems. The column just slides down into a sleeve that bolts to the base. Cut the column down-it only has to be reasonably square, and cut the rack off to match. Probably take about 20 minutes.

[Mike Langford]

It can be done....Most DP heads and bases are just held on with set screws.

Biggest problem is cutting the post down (and to the right height) maybe take it to a machine shop....

You'll also have to cut the pinion gear/shaft/cog/strip/rack thingy (the thing the table moves up and down on....the proper name escapes me ;))

You could have a couple of buddies come over and remove the DP head and while you sit under the table and adjust it to where you will probably use it the most....Have them hold the head up to where it comfortable for you and then mark the post where it needs to be cut!

Good Luck and keep us posted....

Edited for slow typing

[Joshua Layne]

Another option would be to buy an older drill press (atlas, walker-turner, delta...) that has a movable head - then you wouldn't need to cut the post, you could just loosen the head and lower it to exactly where you want - lot less hassle, they can be found cheaply if you look and they are really solid machines - I was bummed, I recently missed out on an old floor-standing atlas for $50 (in my town even!) - I was the second caller...

Anyway, when you do move the head, have some help - the floor standing models in particular are a bit cumbersome to adjust.

Regards,
Josh

[Randal Stevenson]

Another option would be to buy an older drill press (atlas, walker-turner, delta...) that has a movable head - then you wouldn't need to cut the post, you could just loosen the head and lower it to exactly where you want - lot less hassle, they can be found cheaply if you look and they are really solid machines - I was bummed, I recently missed out on an old floor-standing atlas for $50 (in my town even!) - I was the second caller...

Anyway, when you do move the head, have some help - the floor standing models in particular are a bit cumbersome to adjust.

Regards,
Josh

I will second this. I now have three Atlases. My first one was what your looking for (looks very similar to your General one), and people used to just replace the pipe to upgrade. The bases between the floor models and the "benchtop" models (15", more of a 3/4 drill press), are different sizes, but I have seen people build their own bases, or bolt them to a cabinet, and flip the head and table around to have floor height. I gave $50 for the benchtop (40's? models), $75 for the floor model (newest acquisition same thing as the bench) and $150 for another floor model (later model, going in a shop I have access to).

Last year, I saw a Southbend for $50 and a few others up to $150. Normally they will need a bit of cleanup, but that would well be worth the price difference. Post a wanted on CL.

[Bill ThompsonNM]

Or perhaps you could even call Grizzly customer service, explain your situation and maybe they could shorten one before shipping it?

[Ryan Baker]

Or perhaps you could even call Grizzly customer service, explain your situation and maybe they could shorten one before shipping it?

I was thinking that too. I bet they would do it for you if you asked.

[Ray Newman]

I'm a bilateral above the knee amputee and also work from a wheelchair.

'Bout 8 years ago, I purchased a General -- Canadian made -- Model 340 drill press and the table raising assembly. The head will move up and down on the post as does the table. There is a split bracket that bolts to the column to keep the head at the desired height.

When I took delivery, the head was lowered. I placed my trusty old scissors jack between the head and the table, then slowly cranked up the jack to raise the head, then raised the table. Once the table was at a comfortable working height for me, I adjusted the head to utilize the full quill travel and locked it in place.

A good drill press is not necessarily cheap. I found that on my General, the run out is just about nil and the machine does not vibrate at all.

I would not cut the pipe unless there is no way of raising or lowering the head. Someday, you just might need to raise the head and if you cut it, you'll be SOL.

[Chuck Isaacson]

I'm a bilateral above the knee amputee and also work from a wheelchair.

'Bout 8 years ago, I purchased a General -- Canadian made -- Model 340 drill press and the table raising assembly. The head will move up and down on the post as does the table. There is a split bracket that bolts to the column to keep the head at the desired height.

When I took delivery, the head was lowered. I placed my trusty old scissors jack between the head and the table, then slowly cranked up the jack to raise the head, then raised the table. Once the table was at a comfortable working height for me, I adjusted the head to utilize the full quill travel and locked it in place.

A good drill press is not necessarily cheap. I found that on my General, the run out is just about nil and the machine does not vibrate at all.

I would not cut the pipe unless there is no way of raising or lowering the head. Someday, you just might need to raise the head and if you cut it, you'll be SOL.

Thanks for the info. Good to see that I am not the only one around here that is workin on wheels. I would love to see other pics of what you have done to make your shop more accessible. Thanks.

Chuck

[Rick Potter]

Hey Chuck,

Please note that a lot of older Craftsman units have a moveable head too. See them all the time on CL.

Rick Potter

[Phil Baker]

Chuck
Here is an idea how about mounting the drill press upside down mounted to the ceiling. This would allow unrestricted access for your wheel chair.
Here is a link to one mounted this way.

http://www.owwm.com/photoindex/images/355-a.jpg

[Chuck Isaacson]

Chuck
Here is an idea how about mounting the drill press upside down mounted to the ceiling. This would allow unrestricted access for your wheel chair.
Here is a link to one mounted this way.

http://www.owwm.com/photoindex/images/355-a.jpg


Now that is a very interesting concept. I never would have thought about that. I would have to build some kind of support. I have 10' ceilings. I would have to think long and hard about how to do that though. thanks for the input.

Chuck

[Ray Newman]

Chuck: check your private messages.

[James Baker SD]

I did not read all the posts, so maybe this has been mentioned already, but if you could find a used Powermatic 15" drill press from a few years ago, the head and table can be placed anywhere you want along the post. No need to cut the post, just loosen the locking screws and lower it to where you want it. Added plus, the old Powermatics had a 6" quill travel. I have one of these old units, and no desire to replace it.

James

[Mike Wellner]

Chuck,

Check this out

http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=69638

[Don Bergren]

My approach as a C5 quadriplegic who works from a power chair would be to cut the post down to a lower height. I think you can figure out the height you would need by sitting in front of it and going through the physical motions as if it were already lowered. That would help you get a measurement that would be quite accurate.

I currently use a benchtop model and the quill travel is a problem. Mine is mounted to a support I made that extends out from the wall. It lets me get close by straddling the base (which is up off the floor) with my legs and works okay. What I really need to do is replace the factory base with a fabricated one that is a couple of inches narrower to allow better access for me.

It can seem like an odd idea when one thinks of cutting down the post of a brand new drill press. But in our world, modifications are they way we live. I'm also toying with the idea of buying a floor model and wouldn't hesitate to cut it down to suit my needs and operating comfort.

[Myk Rian]

How about finding someone with a benchtop DP that wants a floor model, and swapping the post and rack? 2 birds with one stone.

[Randal Stevenson]

My approach as a C5 quadriplegic who works from a power chair would be to cut the post down to a lower height. I think you can figure out the height you would need by sitting in front of it and going through the physical motions as if it were already lowered. That would help you get a measurement that would be quite accurate.

I currently use a benchtop model and the quill travel is a problem. Mine is mounted to a support I made that extends out from the wall. It lets me get close by straddling the base (which is up off the floor) with my legs and works okay. What I really need to do is replace the factory base with a fabricated one that is a couple of inches narrower to allow better access for me.

It can seem like an odd idea when one thinks of cutting down the post of a brand new drill press. But in our world, modifications are they way we live. I'm also toying with the idea of buying a floor model and wouldn't hesitate to cut it down to suit my needs and operating comfort.


Don, I believe you might find the post interesting where a person mounted it from the ceiling. Also, some of the old ads I have seen (including some real old ones, with the motor on the base), had the base, behind the drill, under the motor (mounted to some cabinet/etc). That should allow you to roll up under it.

[Don Bergren]

Don, I believe you might find the post interesting where a person mounted it from the ceiling. Also, some of the old ads I have seen (including some real old ones, with the motor on the base), had the base, behind the drill, under the motor (mounted to some cabinet/etc). That should allow you to roll up under it.

Good idea Randal! If I can switch the base around it would solve the problem. I think I'd also want to make a stabilizer for the post near the head of the press just to add a bit more stability than just bolting the base down. I'll give it a shot sometime and see. Thanks.

[Jim Heffner]

I read the other posts about shortening the drill press and thought about this. Look real hard at the floor base plate of that drill press and have a friend check it for you to make sure it can be done. I think that floor baseplate should be removable from the column. If it is, remove the base plate, cut off
the amount you desire and re-install it! Instant height, where and how you like it! No cutting of the rack gear, removing the motor assembly or any of that stuff.Check that before doing anything else that involves that much work.