gluing a sliding dovetail

[John Piwaron]

I've made a set of panels in hard maple about 20" wide to form a rectangular case. When assembled, the grain of all of the panels runs in the same direction. That is, there is no cross grain joinery.

At what will be the two top joints I've cut through dovetails.

But my question is about what I'm doing with the bottom panel. I've cut sliding dovetails to join that panel a short distance (4 1/2") up from the end of the side panels.

Here's my question: I'd like to glue them along their entire length of about 20". Yellow glue, being water based, begins swelling the wood almost immediately making assembly of such a joint difficult to impossible.

But here's what I'm thinking - I could use epoxy (West System) or Polyurethane (Gorilla) for the task. Neither of those is water base. I'm thinking that gets around the wood swelling problem. I kind of lean to using the epoxy, but if I used that, I'd probably get some of their slow set hardener just to be safe. Of course, I already have some Gorilla on hand.

What's your opinion?

[Philip Rodriquez]

Your joinery choice works well for small joints... not for big joints. Even without glue, I doubt you would get the joint to close. Imagine the stress of discovering that while your trying to pound it together.

If you absolutely want to go that direction, look up "tapered sliding dovetail."

[Lee Schierer]

If you glue it can you still call it a sliding dovetail??

Using water based glues would be a decision based on how tight your joint fits dry and how quickly you can slide it together once the glue is applied. Epoxy or the poly glue would not cure as fast and create the swelling, but after glue set clean up may be an issue with them. If you use the polyurethane glue don't wet the joint or you will have the same fit up issue. There is enough moisture in the wood and air to set the glue, though it takes a bit longer than wet wood.

[John Piwaron]

Well, in this case, they're cut and they fit pretty well. Not line to line tight.

I've done this before, but for about 12 inches.

[John Piwaron]

If you glue is can you still call it a sliding dovetail??



Yeah, I was just thinking that.

[Paul Murphy]

I just did a 19" sliding dovetail (4 of them) on a slant-front desk. I used titebond's polyurethane glue on the socket, and wet only the last 3 inches of the joint.

If I had used yellow glue I would have only put glue on last 3 inches of one end, and the first three inches of the other piece, and had clamps ready in case I needed them! I did use yellow glue on the 2-1/2" divider rails, and had to hammer them into final position. The polyurethane was so much easier, no hammer or clamps needed to set the pieces flush.

I had also considered epoxy, but had good experiences in the past with the titebond brand of polyurethane, and already had some on hand.

Good luck, and if you try epoxy please let us know how how you like it.

[harry strasil]

I just use wooden pins (dowels) at one end of my sliding dovetails.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/mltiprpswdwk3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/weddingchest04.jpg

[tyler mckenzie]

I made a ladder where the rungs use sliding dovetails. I went with epoxy, and would use it again. The glue up was easier to assemble then the dry fit, the epoxy seamed to act as a lubricant.

[Joe Leigh]

The easiest way I've found to do this is by applying glue to the final few inches of the "female" or pin portion (last section to receive the joint) and the final few inches of the "male" or tail portion (last section to enter the joint).
Even then you have to work quickly.

[Thomas Pender]

Agree with the comments on how long a sliding dovetail may be if you intend to glue it. I like the idea of gluing the end of the female end and the end of the male end, makes really good sense and it is similar to what I do myself. I am oposed (IMHO) to using anything but traditional wood glues along the length of the dovetail and I think Harry's method is elegant. Seems to me the gang has proposed some elegant (practical) solutions.

Good luck.

[John Piwaron]

I just use wooden pins (dowels) at one end of my sliding dovetails.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/weddingchest04.jpg

Thanks. Good advise.

BTW, your method of raised panels in a frame to form the sides of your case is something that I like doing too.

However, this time, I'm using a Christian Becksvoort idea for the case (that's the exact reason for the sliding dovetail joint) but my doors and the back will be the raised panel construcion. The doors however, will have beveled glass, sort of the same thing! ;)

[John Piwaron]

Agree with the comments on how long a sliding dovetail may be if you intend to glue it. I like the idea of gluing the end of the female end and the end of the male end, makes really good sense and it is similar to what I do myself. I am oposed (IMHO) to using anything but traditional wood glues along the length of the dovetail and I think Harry's method is elegant. Seems to me the gang has proposed some elegant (practical) solutions.

Good luck.

Yeah, I've worried about the future - how will anyone take apart anything made with "modern" adhesives - polyurethane glues, epoxy, etc.

Even so, I really like the longer open time they offer. Sometimes it's not such an easy choice. Most often I'm using Titebond 2. I'd try Titebond 3 if I could get a smaller bottle than the quart size everyone around me seems to sell. I understand Titebond 3 has longer open time.

[Jerome Hanby]

I think I'd go with what several have suggested here. If the sliding dovetail is a nice fit, just glue the final couple of inches.

[Tom Esh]

...I understand Titebond 3 has longer open time.

There's also TB Extend (about 20 mins open time IIRC). The borgs generally don't carry it, but your local WC probably does. However I'll join the chorus for sliding DTs don't need glue ...at least not for strength. At most a dab on the trailing end to keep it from rattling.