Drying wood

[Carole Valentine]

The wood has been stickered outdoors, uncovered for a year. A local lumber yards moisture meter indicates the moisture level at +/- 13%. I contend that sealing the ends of the boards before storing is really only effective early on and that doing so a year later with a 13% MC is a waste of time. My friend insists that it needs to be done anyway. Any opinions?

[Ken Salisbury]

Any opinions?

Waste of time

[Mike Weaver]

It is certainly a waste of time.

Sealing the ends is effective at slowing moisture loss through the end grain in the early stages of air drying. (Sounds like you're already aware of this). :)

-Mike

[Bob Smalser]

No need now.

But next time you need to, and don't wanna spring for Anchorseal wax emulsion and shipping costs, try Home Depot's Henry's roofing tar in the water emulsion for 4 bucks a gallon.

Been using it for years, and find it just as effective as Anchorseal...just trim the ends before running it thru your planer when that time comes after seasoning.


http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/4110272/51335790.jpg

[Steve Evans]

Warning thread hijack in progress

Bob

How do you like the Lucas mill. I was watching it in operation last weekend at the local woodworking show. It would appear that you get a pretty good workout using it.

Steve

[Dan Gill]

Warning! Second thread hijack . . .

Bob, I love the quote in your signature. That should apply not just to building, but to everything we do.

[Bob Smalser]

... It would appear that you get a pretty good workout using it.

Steve

Like it just fine. We had an old Belsaw carriage mill when I was a kid and my local associates have band and VW mills. When I got it almost a decade ago, it was the only swing-blade around. Today you should also look at the Petersons, as both makers have their advantages and disadvantages. I mill 100k or so BF a year with 200k on hand at any one time.

But it all depends on what you intend to cut and what loghandling gear you have....

Swingblades:

Mill big logs. Mill them on the ground. Mill dirty logs. Easy to set up, sharpen and maintain. Quartersaw and long lengths are easy. Wide boards are hard.

Band Mills:

Wide boards from smaller logs in cabinetmaker quantities are what they do best. Relatively difficult to set up, sharpen and maintain. The log needs to lifted onto the carriage, getting more length is expensive, and they q-saw with difficulty.

Mobile Dimension Circle Mill: Nothing out there yet does framing lumber out of big logs as fast or easy as the old 3-blade Volkswagon mill.

Workout? All of them are a workout...those boards don't stack and sticker themselves and no machine can do it. You can use your gym membership budget to buy one because you won't need that weight room or treadmill any more.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/4110272/50978740.jpg

Oh...and even if you have your own trees, it's also helpful to have an appropriate truck or trailer so's to pick up the occasional special log like the 10 tons of 240-year-old Madrona on the old Pete above.

One last point...ignore all the production speed data. Meaningless if you are cutting for yourself as log and lumber handling are the real speed-determiners. My mill will cut 1000bf an hour in a log that big and I have a big JD310 with forks and bucket thumb....but over time working alone....and stacking and stickering....I average less than 1000bf a day.


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