To Wax or Not to Wax???

[Mike Wenman]

Did a search in the forums and didn't come up with a viable answer for me but, now that I have the new lathe gracing my presence here, would it be beneficial to wax the ways?

Have read during my search, that some use Johnsons Paste wax for their table saws and to stay away from the stuff that a well known wood hobby store sells. Some mention not to use any wax that has silicone in it, but no stories shared if something like Turtle car wax would be adequate until Johnsons' could be obtained.

Being in the Colorado mountains at 8000ft, humidity isn't much of an issue here to accelerate the forming of rust, but definitely want to avoid that as much as possible so what are your thoughts?

Yea, I realize this is kinda like asking if a person should wear Fruit of the Loom or Hanes..:{) sooooo...in your opinion????

STGC USN Ret.

[Rob Young]

Many car waxes contain silicone, check the label. Silicone will cause you finishing problems later if it somehow comes in contact with your workpiece and you don't remove it (solvent, sanding or both). I'd bet that Turtle Wax contains silicone.

Johnson's Paste Wax doesn't contain silicone. Minwax also sells a paste wax for wood that does not contain silicone. I usually find the Johnson's Paste wax at the hardware store with the CLEANING supplies and the Minwax over with the finishing supplies (Ace Hardware). There are probably other brands of floor wax that will work, just check the label carefully for the word "silicone".

On the flip side, you get enough of any wax on a piece of wood and don't get it removed, finishes won't "stick" or apply right. That said, I haven't had a problem with waxing tablesaw or jointer wings if you let the wax haze up then buff off the excess. The incidental contact during the cutting or jointing may pick up an infinitesimal amount but sanding/planing/scraping later removes it.

Boesheild's T9 is another alternative.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Mike - I use the SC Johnsons paste wax and have ever since I started turning. I like it. I am sure there are better products out there but I like being able to wipe on/wipe off and I am done with it. I use the wax more as a lube for the ways than to prevent rust. I just like the easy way the tailstock and tool rest move after a fresh coat of paste wax.

What part of Colorado? I lived there for many years and loved it!

[Mike Wenman]

Thanks for the info Rob. And Steve, that is mostly my intent is to "lube" the ways so the tailstock slides better. As for what part of Colorado, I live smack dab in the center of the state in a iddy biddy town called Buena Vista.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Mike - been through there many times as one of my most favorite places in the world is Mt. Antero! Made a lot of trips to the summit to prospect for aquamarine!

[Al Wasser]

If you wax and find your tail stock slipping, then cease waxing that area. Wax does help keep the tool rest moving easier and helps cleanup some of the crud from turning and finishing. Usually this is a small part of the ways.

If you are down this way and want to talk turning give a holler. If you want to take a class, check out Keith Gotschall in Salida. He has a web site that gives class schedules and is a good teacher. Yes I took his class.

[Mike Wenman]

Al,

Didn't realize Keith was in Salida. We used to have a gent here in Buena Vista by the name of Bob Gray and he had a studio named "Trembling Aspen". Unfortunately he and his wife packed up and moved away I believe because I haven't seen him around in almost 2 years now.

As for stopping by in Pueblo West, sounds like a fantastic idea :) although, it probably won't be until late spring and on into summer when I can get on the bike and ride down. Even though the snow is pretty to look at and a pain to shovel, 6+ inches of it and motorcycles just don't mix.

[Steve Mawson]

I always wax just to make things slide easy. You don't have to be in Colorado today to get snow. I am looking at close to 12" on the deck table. Been snowing since early last night, already scooped the drive twice today and know I will have to do at least once more if I am lucky.

[Jim Silva]

I wax my ways, rests and posts. I use the standard parafin wax you buy in the grocery store for canning purposes. (It's cheap and useful for other metal to metal gliding surfaces)

I rub wax liberally on the ways then take a paper towel wet with mineral spirits and rub that over the wax. This partially dissolves the wax, getting it into the pores or machine marks as well as leveling it out ensuring that I won't have it gunking up and actually causing things to get stuck.

I've never had an issue with wax on the lathe getting on the wood because it's not a loose paste wax that can splash on to the piece. At least I assume that's how others have had issues.

For things like jointers, saw fences and any other surface the WOOD actually comes in contact with, I use a food safe silicone spray available in most hardware stores or kitchen or cooking supply stores. Spray it on and wipe it off with a paper towel. If you're super concerned about transfer, rub the area with a handfull of sawdust afterward to pick up any residuals but I've never found this necessary and have yet to have any finishing issues.

Hope this helps

J.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Mike I use SC Johnson wax on all three lathes. Never had a problem. I wax my toolrest with beeswax.