getiing a new (OLD) unisaw up and running quickish?

[Joshua Layne]

Hi All,
I think I paid pretty fair value for this (4 benjamins), so this is not intended to be a gloat post, but yesterday I picked up a 1948 unisaw that seems pretty clean, but is missing a couple pieces and looks like woody the g0dd@mn woodpecker had a field day on the base. My problem is space and I would like to get this machine running and replace my contractors saw (which will go right to CL unless somebody here wants it ) ASAP. What do I need to check/oil/clean/tune before I say sayonara to my 36-650?

some details:
it runs
the inside is strangely clean (it was in a school shop)
it needs to be rewired with an apprentice tail, as it was hardwired via conduit
it is 1-phase 220 currently (I have 1 phase 220 in the shop, so all good there)
the fence (old jet-lock style) is present but a bit beat up - seems usable if faced with some melamine
it is missing the lock knob for the blade height adjuster - avail from delta
it is missing the blade angle scale and pointer - not avail from delta or anywhere that I can see :(
The guy who sold it to me sanded the top the night before I picked it up... kinda wish he had not done that, as I imagine it was just rusty and handed been too screwed up - he used a hand-held orbital from the marks... hopefully the table is still flat.

It had some WD-40 sprayed onto the ?ways? for tilting the blade to free them up and otherwise sounds quiet.

I'd appreciate any wisdom from you guys - I know a couple of you at least have the older unis.

Thanks in advance,
Josh

PS: if anyone has any idea on how I might be able to find an angle scale for the saw, I would be eternally grateful - of course ebay and such, but I keep hoping somebody has a stash of these for parts in some 'car junk lot' of unisaws...

[Gary Radice]

Short answer: Get thee over to owwm.org. Lots of expertise over there on restoring old Unisaws.

Somewhat longer answer: always a good idea to replace the arbor bearings and motor bearings, and it may need new belts. You can replace the arbor bearings yourself (not particularly easy, but doable) or you can send the parts to Sawcenter.com and they will do it for a reasonable price.
You might be able to get a lock knob by posting a WTB over at the owwm site. Lots of guys there have parts lying around and certain to be cheaper than Delta.

[Jeff Duncan]

Here's another short answer, plug her in and go! I've bought 2 Uni's (54' and 70's) and I don't fix anything until it's broken. Machine is clean and lubed? Then good enough for me. You'll likely need to spend a little time tuning the fence, but maybe you'll get lucky?
Now if your into restoring that's a whole other thing altogether, not my cup of tea, but the guys at OWWM can certainly be of help.
good luck,
JeffD

[Bob Vallaster]

I'm inclined as Jeff is: smoke 'em if you got 'em...with two caveats: 1) check parallelism of that cranky old Jetlock fence, and 2) check alignment of the blade.
Bearings and belts will signal their need for replacement.

BobV

[Gary Radice]

Bearings and belts will signal their need for replacement.

BobV

Maybe yes and maybe no, at least with bearings. Sometimes they just seize, which leads to galling the arbor. The useful life of bearing grease is about 20 years, so if they have never been changed on that machine you are living on borrowed time. If that happens in your motor, you are looking at an expensive repair or a new motor. New bearings are a few bucks and couple of hours of shop time and you'll have peace of mind.

I know the OP said he wanted to get it going fast so if that is his main priority then I agree: fire it up and cross your fingers! If he wants to protect his investment and keep it around for another 60 years, then some preventive maintenance (not a full restore) is not a bad idea.

[Gary Radice]

Oh, and one more tip. If you go over to Popular Woodworking's web site and go to the Editors Blog, you can watch videos of the editor restoring a 1944 Unisaw, (including changing the bearings).

[Joshua Layne]

Thanks for all the replies, guys.
So far, I have unbolted all the cr4p that was tapped into the wings and am working on the table surface now. I also (in very cramped quarters) got a conduit lock ring back on the motor wiring (it had broken and was not safe) and will be wiring in the temporary power cord a bit later today. I also need to figure out the blade-wrench situation, as my modern delta wrench seems to be too thick to really work and it will be leaving with my contractor's saw as soon as I can sell it anyway.

I have gotten myself over to owwm.org and have already gotten 5 messages on parts availability - I think that may be one of the other strengths of these saws - Delta made a lot of them.

Thanks again,
Josh

[Joshua Layne]

oh, and I hear you on the bearings. I don't know how I am going to proceed on that yet, but I understand the risks. The machine seems strangely well maintained for a 60 year old beast, so perhaps the school shop changed them - the plate on the motor certainly looks like it has been opened, so I would be surprised if they haven't been changed at least once.

[Cary Falk]

oh, and I hear you on the bearings. I don't know how I am going to proceed on that yet, but I understand the risks. The machine seems strangely well maintained for a 60 year old beast, so perhaps the school shop changed them - the plate on the motor certainly looks like it has been opened, so I would be surprised if they haven't been changed at least once.

Be careful. I bought one that was rumored to have come out of a school. The guy I bought it from was going to restore it but life got in the way. The arbor turned smoothly with no noise. I wanted to replace the bearings anyway. When I tore into it I found that the back bearing wasn't touching the arbor because the arbor was worn down too much. Some other things weren't put together right also. Just because it looks like it was done , doesn't mean it was done right. I would replace the bearings now, just because..

[Dave Cav]

I have gotten myself over to owwm.org and have already gotten 5 messages on parts availability - I think that may be one of the other strengths of these saws - Delta made a lot of them.

Thanks again,
Josh

There are two OWWM sites. The .org site is the forum. Lots of good info there especially if you check the archives, but searching them can be fiddly. There is also the .com site. That is where the machine and manufacturer specific info lives. There is also an extensive wiki on rebuilding a unisaw. If you saw has an intact, working original "bullet" repulsion/induction motor, there are some things you should read up on before you go into it. The motor is potentially worth as much or more than the saw.

You can also get new parts from sawcenter.com, possibly cheaper and faster than through Delta.

Take the Unifence apart, or at least the rear bracket lock. The lock is pot metal and they break a lot. If it's broken you'll never get the fence to stay square.

I'm a high school shop teacher. School tools get the snot beat out of them, and if the shop teacher is doing the maintenance or repairs he was probably in a huge hurry, and he probably doesn't have a background as a machinery repairman, either. If he contracted it out or had the district facilities people do it, it can even be worse, because they don't have to live with the results.