Three new pens

[Scott Hackler]

Here are 3 new ones. I changed up to this kit from Pennstate. Top to bottom is Buckeye burl, Redwood Lace Burl, and Black Walnut root/burl. Kit is black titanium.

My picture taking lacks something to be desired. In person they look pretty darn decent and should make the person that gets them for x-mas pleased (I hope). I really like this kit and style of pen and will be ordering more of them.

http://members.cox.net/cabletech/pens1.jpg

[Billy Tallant]

Very nice looking pens. I also like making that style of pen.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Good looking pens Scott! What did you use for a finish?

[Scott Hackler]

I used BLO and CA (3-4 coats) with HUT wax after and have mixed feelings. Only the Redwood Lace burl one has a little shine and the other two are matte finish. Strange that I didnt get a high polish doing this, but on the flip side the matte finish goes well with the black titanium hardware. Seems like the wax might have "dulled" down the shine a bit, but I dont know for sure.

This kit is so stinking easy to work with that I am definitely ordering more. The euro style ones I started with are 10x harder to make (for me) and dont look nearly as good as these new ones.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Nice looking pens Scott. That is one pen I haven't made. Don't know why just never ordered one. Well done.

[John Terefenko]

Scott nice work on the pens and the blanks are really winners. I am not a particular fan of that kit but can see why others do like it and it gets to show alot of material. If I may make a suggestion, lose the wax. It does absolutly nothing for a CA finish. If you want to try a plastic wax you may get a shine but all I use is Renaissance wax after the pen has cured and yes CA does need curing so if you wax right after the coats of CA you are dulling the shine. I use the REn wax only for picture taking and keeping some fingerprints off. A gloss shine of 5 or 6 coats would make that burl look real deep and bring out the kits even more. Just my opinion. Thanks for showing.

[David E Keller]

Nice trio... I like them the way they are, but if you want more shine you might try buffing them. The only other option would be to disassemble and start over with sanding and CA. The buckeye and redwood are two of my favorites.

[Scott Hackler]

Bernie, this is only the second kit I have ever attempted but it has a real quality look and feel to it and I wanted something that was more businessman looking (x-mas presents), this fills all the above. It was pretty intimidating with all the extra parts for the mechanism but the results are real nice.

John, thanks for the advise. How long does CA take to cure? I will have to experiment a little. I want that triple poly and buffed look but would sure like to be able to do it fast and not have to "tie up" the mandrel while waiting for a finish to dry.

Sure wish I could get better photos to take, that picture doent do them justice.

[Scott Hackler]

oh, btw the finish was sanded with micro mesh up to 12,000 and then Blo and CA. And of course the HUTT waxes, which seemd to dull the finish up a bit.

[John Terefenko]

Bernie, this is only the second kit I have ever attempted but it has a real quality look and feel to it and I wanted something that was more businessman looking (x-mas presents), this fills all the above. It was pretty intimidating with all the extra parts for the mechanism but the results are real nice.

John, thanks for the advise. How long does CA take to cure? I will have to experiment a little. I want that triple poly and buffed look but would sure like to be able to do it fast and not have to "tie up" the mandrel while waiting for a finish to dry.

Sure wish I could get better photos to take, that picture doent do them justice.

If I were you I would let set till the next day. Like I said I never wax a CA pen except for REN wax which really is not a polish. Do not try buffing on a wheel with the components on the blank. You will buff the platings off. I also do not buffing with the blanks on a mandrel. Run the risk of bending the mandrel. Micromesh and use a plastic polish. Hut wax is made for natural wood finish without an undercoating. Like you said experiment. I use a plastic polish on all my acrylics after micromesh.

[Billy Tallant]

Scot,

John has the right idea. I've just started using the Ren wax & I love it. My CA/BLO finish doesn't come out as glossy as Poly either. But I'm very satisfied with the finish. I couldn't believe that the Ren wax would keep fingerprints off, but it does a great job.

[John Terefenko]

Scot,

John has the right idea. I've just started using the Ren wax & I love it. My CA/BLO finish doesn't come out as glossy as Poly either. But I'm very satisfied with the finish. I couldn't believe that the Ren wax would keep fingerprints off, but it does a great job.


Hello Billy

Just a question on your finishing technique. Are you using the spray activator to get the coats to dry faster??? The reason I ask is I do not like that stuff for finishing because it will dry out the CA but will not dry the blo. The use of blo is sort of a twofold thing in that it helps spread the CA better and the heat will cause the coat to dry. I actually will never use blo because I think it does take away from the shine. You are mixing a colored oil with a clear CA and it has to add some cloudyiness. Some people claim they have no problem with it and it helps them so to each his own. Just a thought or two. I use thin CA and apply about 4 to 5 coats depending opn the depth I am after in the blank. I do need to make some more wooden pens soon because I sold the ones I had in this years shows which just eneded this weekend. Good luck. Have a great day.