Skew Questions

[Jamie Straw]

With the help of a friend, I now have 3 different skew chisels to practice with. Raffan's basic DVD shows me marvelous things that can be done with a skew, but I have a couple of questions!

Is a narrow skew (~1/2") to small to have a curved profile?
What are the details involved with using a curved skew leading with the long point? I have only used one by leading with the lower end of the curve, but I'd love to learn the other way also.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Get Lacers Skew and son of skew DVD'd if you want to learn the skew. I still can't use one effectively, but it's a good start.

[Jeff Nicol]

Jamie, I have the Raffan videos and everything he shows you in them is time tested and proven. I have a 1/4" wide skew that I use for miniatures and for finials and it has a radius grind on it. When leading with the long point down, the chance of getting a catch is reduced. When you are cutting a bead or cutting end grain to round over, with the long point down you should end up with the point finishing the cut as you get deeper into the curve of the cut. With the long point up, if you don't watch where the point is and keep it away from the wood and at the correct angle to follow the cut, it can catch and make a nice spiral gouge in your freshly cut bead or round over. I use the skew both ways and I will go from one direction to the other to start and finish cuts, or to improve the depth of cut. It just takes practice.

Good luck and have fun,

Jeff

[Dick Gerard]

You have received good advice. I can only contribute what I have learned from 30 years of turning ... ABC

This applies to all skews and gouges, but not scrapers

A = Anchor ... anchor the tool to the tool rest
B= Bevel ... bring the bevel into contact with the spinning wood in such
a manner that the bevel and ONLY the bevel is lightly touching the wood
C= Cut ... raise the handle until the edge begins to cut, then move the tool alomg the tool rest

Simple ... ABC

[Dave Rudy]

If I understand your question correctly, leading with the long point on a curved skew is the same as leading with the long point on a straight skew. that is, the curve extends from the short tip (heel) to about the middle of the blade. After that, a curved and straight skew look the same.

So, make sure the cut is in the last 1/3 of the tool and keep the point from digging in. Start with the tool in "neutral" (before the bevel is on the wood) and bring the handle up until the tool just engages.

Technically, leading with either side is exactly the same cut. But the feel is different, because your hands are in a different position relative to the work.

HTH

[Bill Bolen]

Dick, good solid advice there with the A, B, C rule but you forgot the D!
D=Dang skew, did it again..............
....Bill...

[Jamie Straw]

You have received good advice. I can only contribute what I have learned from 30 years of turning ... ABC



Thanks, Dick. Yep, the ABC guidance was front-and-center at Bonnie's class. She even put it in a handout, in case we forgot. :D So simple, yet so important and I remind myself several time a day.

[Jamie Straw]

Jamie, I have the Raffan videos and everything he shows you in them is time tested and proven. I have a 1/4" wide skew that I use for miniatures and for finials and it has a radius grind on it. When leading with the long point down, the chance of getting a catch is reduced. When you are cutting a bead or cutting end grain to round over, with the long point down you should end up with the point finishing the cut as you get deeper into the curve of the cut.
Jeff

Thanks, Jeff, that gives me a better picture. I just found the misplaced DVD, time to watch it with focus on the skew section.


Get Lacers Skew and son of skew DVD'd if you want to learn the skew. I still can't use one effectively, but it's a good start.

When I have the $$. Lot's of $$s flying out the door for tools right now. I do have more Raffan DVDs on the way, part of a special from Hartville Tool, the come with the Stronghold chuck.

[Jamie Straw]

...So, make sure the cut is in the last 1/3 of the tool and keep the point from digging in. Start with the tool in "neutral" (before the bevel is on the wood) and bring the handle up until the tool just engages.

Technically, leading with either side is exactly the same cut. But the feel is different, because your hands are in a different position relative to the work.

HTH

Thanks, Dave, will put this info in the mix when I give the long-point lead a try today.