evolution of finishing tastes...any thoughts?

[Mac Houtz]

When I began woodworking about ten years ago, I knew about a few different types of finishes. Very few. Varnish, poly, etc.

As I have progressed, I have found myself looking for new alternatives. I have done a fair bit of maritime based work, on which four or six coats of high gloss spar varnish is not only appropriate, but really looks nice. I generally stay away from Poly at this point, and have been using mostly the oil and wax routine in the last few years for my furniture projects because of its simplicity and its tendency to be a great clear finish for the natural beauty of the wood.(I have been building mostly in walnut, cherry, and mahogany).

But because some of my most recent bigger projects have been gifts for friends and family and a few might even end up for sale at some point, I would like to explore the options of a finish that will be longer lasting and give more protection and less maintenance (i.e. idiot proof). Am I headed down the shellac road? Should I check out a Waterlox type product?

I want something that will be a good satin type finish on top of a coat of oil, preferably wipe on...

I am sure there are a lot of folks on this board who have passed the point where I am now with regards to finishing. Where did you end up?

[Tony Bilello]

I ended up with lacquer many years ago. It sprays on easily and dries quickly. I learned the hardway when I first opened a woodworking shop. Almost all of the oil finishes came back to me quickly. I also tried the Waterlox route and that too is not a durable finish. Shellac was never even an option except in repairing an existing shellac finish. Lacquer has been the furniture makers finish of choice for nearly 100 years. Look around at furniture you have in your house. Whether high gloss or satin, more than likely it is lacquer. It is not the preferred finish of furniture manufacturers because the manufacturers like it, but because that is what the general public likes best. The manufacturer wants to sell his furniture and he knows what the consumer wants. Up until recently, lacquer was king. It is rapidly being overshadowed by conversion varnish, acrylics and polyesters. As far as the home hobbyist, lacquer is still king.

[Scott Holmes]

Mac,

Poly is a type of varnish not a group of it's own.

Shellac and lacquer are about the same in durability until you go to CAT lacquer, then lacquer wins.

As for durablity any varnish can be mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits to make your own wipe-on varnish at a much better cost point than buying pre-thinned varnish as a wipe-on. About 3 properly applied wipe-on coats equals 1 properly applied brush on coat.

Varnish is more durable than shellac, lacquer (non CAT)and 95+% of the water-borne finishes (acrylic). Conversion varnish trumps all the above in durabilty, hands down.

Another option for an in-the-wood look is an oil/varnish blend. (aka Danish oil)
It is easy to make:
1/3 mineral spirits
1/3 varnish
1/3 BLO (or Tung oil* see below)

* If you use tung oil you will spend more money; end result will be the same. I have a sample I show in my finishing class and no-one has ever been able to tell me which 1/2 of the striped honduras mahogany board was done with tung oil and which half was done with BLO.

[Mac Houtz]

thanks for your thoughtful replies. I hope you could see the middle ground I am trying to strike; somewhere between the tough, shell like protection and build up provided by good varnish like epifanes, and the warm, natural presentation of something like Danish oil.

[Scott Holmes]

NOTE: Epifanes is a TOP Quality Marine varnish. That is NOT a good choice for a table top. Marine varnishes are much SOFTER and LESS waterproof than interior varnishes. It's a difference in the manufacturing process. More oil = less hardness and less waterproofing; to provide a flexible finish that can withstand the movement of outdoor wood..

[Roger Jensen]

Not sure if this is what you're looking for, but I have been very happy with the product suite from Target Coatings. While I doubt anything would be considered "marine grade", they have a nice variety of topcoats, stains and shellacs. I have been using their clear stain as a base coat, followed by shellac and topcoat (one of several, depending on the environment).

I like HVLP with WB products - easy cleanup and no fume hazards. The support you get on the Target Coatings web site is first rate - usually by the president of the company. There are some situations WB shouldn't but used, but overall a great product.

Roger

[Howard Acheson]

>>> Am I headed down the shellac road?

Nothing wrong with shellac as long as you take the time to learn how to use it. Brushing is the least appropriate way to apply it. Spraying is better and the best is to pad it on. Shellac is also not as durable and protective as other finishes. But, it's easy to repair.

>>> Should I check out a Waterlox type product?

Waterlox Original is just a brand of varnish. Because it's a phenolic resin/tung oil varnish varnish it is quite dark amber but it is very durable and protective. It will also last a long time and is impervious to most household cleaning chemicals.

[Glen Butler]

thanks for your thoughtful replies. I hope you could see the middle ground I am trying to strike; somewhere between the tough, shell like protection and build up provided by good varnish like epifanes, and the warm, natural presentation of something like Danish oil.

I think the answer hear is conversion varnish. Properly applied you can hardly tell it is there. There is basically no build up. Lower sheens seem to be more popular these days and they go on easier.