finial technique

[Mike Minto]

starting to make a finial or two these days, have a regarding technique. i see some forms with finials that match EXACTLY the contour of the bowl where they join - how is this done? is the finial being turned, at least to start out, while on the form so as to establish the area where it joins the form, and then finished separately, or just what? thanks.

[Nathan Hawkes]

Mike, I might not be a lot of help; I've only turned a couple pieces with finials. On both, I turned the finial diameter a little larger than needed, and either glued it to the lid or top, or used tailstock pressure alone with a homemade HDPE recessed tip attachment on my live center(like the reverse cone on OneWay centers). It was very important for me to take pretty light cuts, both for control and for reducing chatter. In both cases, the lid was just sitting in the vessel, as a friction drive; I had already turned off a holding tenon when I realized I wanted to change the design.

HTH.

[Ryan Baker]

If you want a really good match, yes that is probably the easiest way. Initially turn the cap/finial so that it is a tight, press fit into the form so that the form will act as a chuck for the finial. Turn the shape you want. When done with the finial, remove the finial and enlarge the opening in the form so that it is a nice slip fit instead of a jamb fit. Just be careful removing the turned finial.

[Dan Forman]

Hope somebody comes in her with a picture or drawing, because I'm having a hard time visualizing this.

[Wally Dickerman]

I've turned a lot of finials. You've no doubt noticed that different turners have different ways of doing things.

I Usually mount the blank for a finial in the spigot jaws of my Talon chuck. I bring up the tailstock with a light touch, for support. I turn at high RPMs. 2500 to 3000. Surface speed on something with a dia. that small really isn't very much.

Always start out with a sketch of what you intend to do. If you're not yet on friendly terms with a skew, I'd suggest a small spindle gouge for turning. Design depends on the piece itself. Is it a lidded vessel? Is it a box? Is it a tall or short HF? You get the picture. On the bottom end you want a small tenon to center it and to make a better glue joint into the lid.

I've found that most turners start out by turning finials that are too heavy and klunky. Often they overpower the turning they're mounted on. A finial on a vessel or box should appear to be somewhat delicate. Keep it plain and simple without too much detail work which can detract from the whole piece.
I suggest that you get ahold of Cindy Drozda"s CD. Cindy's the queen of finials. At least check out her website.

Wally

[Neal Addy]

I usually decide whether I'm going to add a finial before I ever turn the hollow form body. This way I can plan in advance. At a minimum, the slope and contour of the top needs to be considered. Also, the diameter of my finial stock helps determine things like rim diameter, lid width (I turn the lid and finial as one piece), etc.

Here's a quick one-page tutorial on turning pedestals that might offer a few insights. Turning a lid and finial is done in nearly exactly the same way.

Turning a Pedestal (http://www.nealaddy.org/node/50)

HTH!

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree with Wally and Neal. I sometimes turn finials by themseleves or sometimes incorporate them into the lid as one piece. If you haven't got or seen Cindy Drozda's DVD on turning a finial it is a must have in my book. A skew is a great tool to use and I like my 1/4" round skew from Robert Rosand for doing finials along with a small spindle gouge.

[Alec Moseley]

If you can buy or borrow one of Cindy Drozda's DVDs, she gives good finial instruction and produces beautiful work.