Problem with parting off

[Mike Minto]

When parting off a piece, I often find the underside of my new creation very rough - I do use a sharp parting tool. Then, when sanding, it can be tough to get the bottom flat so that the entire edge of the bottom looks even on the surface upon which it's sitting. Know what I mean? Any advice?

[Robert Parrish]

Try parting off with a skew instead of a parting tool. Much better results.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Mike - what type of turning are you having problems parting off? Makes a difference on techniques.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Mike,

As Robert suggested you can use a skew or....

At the point where you are going to part it off....partially cut it down and doing so, ever so slightly under cut it.......and leave say 1/8-3/16". Very carefully sand the rest of the bottom. Then using your parting tool or skew, finish parting it off.

A sharp skew will leave less torn grain but requires a little more practice. It also requires that once you start the cut, you have a total commitment to it. Any hesitation will cause a skate. DAMHIKT!

[Mike Minto]

steve, usually bowls, but today made a small hollow form out of cherry. i think my parting tools (1/16", 1/8") are sharp - what angle do you guys use on such? ken, have not tried a skew, but i do often just leave that last nubby to saw off with a japanese saw. regular turning speed when parting?

[Steve Schlumpf]

Mike - looking forward to seeing the cherry hollow form!

I used to reverse the turning and cut away as much as possible with the bowl gouge. Then with the lathe off - use a pull saw to cut through the last 1/4" or so. Then used a drill with 2" sanding disk to clean up the little stub area.

Do you have Cole jaws, a donut chuck, Longworth or any means to hold your bowl for reverse turning?

[Wally Dickerman]

Mike, there are two ways to use a parting tool....scraping or cutting. Cutting is easier and will give better results. If you are just shoving the tool in you're scraping and you'll get a torn surface. To make a cutting cut, lay the bottom bevel of the tool on the wood, then push in and down, with an arcing cut to the center, riding the bevel. It's a good idea to widen the cut as you go.

Wally

[Bernie Weishapl]

On bowls I use a tenon and HF's I part off just slightly longer than I need. I reverse both in a donut chuck and finish off the bottom with a bowl gouge for a nice smooth surface. Little sanding needed.