Good "all-around" bandsaw blade?

[Jason White]

What's a good all-purpose blade for my 14" bandsaw? I use it for everything from chopping up scraps for the burn pile to cutting slight curves to light re-sawing.

I've got a 3/8" 4-tooth blade on there currently. Anybody got a better recommendation? I just HATE changing blades!!

Jason

[Ron Blaise]

For the money, you can't beat Timber Wolf saw blades. I have been using them for years with excellent results. (http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/).
Don't try to e-mail them, just use their 800 number and order direct from them. Just tell them what kind of saw you have and they will help you pick the right one for your saw.
Happy sawdust!

[Dick Bringhurst]

If it's doing what you want adequately then it's the rignt blade. Dick B.

[Jack Camillo]

My all-purpose blade is a 1/2in 3-tpi. Works wonders.

[Myk Rian]

1/4" Olsen.

[Matt Stiegler]

What's a good all-purpose blade for my 14" bandsaw? I use it for everything from chopping up scraps for the burn pile to cutting slight curves to light re-sawing.

I've got a 3/8" 4-tooth blade on there currently. Anybody got a better recommendation? I just HATE changing blades!!


Jason, Timberwolf recommended a 3/8" 6 tpi to me for general purpose use, said it was the blade they sell the most. (That was for a 17" saw, post here (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=126334), but I don't see why that would matter.) Obviously, the best # of teeth for you is going to depend on the stock you cut.

I realize you're asking what actually works best for folks, but my saw hasn't arrived yet, so you'll need other responses for that.

[Mike Delyster]

Jason:

I run a 1/2" 3tpi blade on my 14" Delta and rarely change to another size, that includes resawing, if I was going to cut a bunch of tight curves I would switch over to a 1/4" 6tpi blade.

I also run Timberwolf blades.

Mike

[Terry Beadle]

I recommend and use the wood slicer from Highland Hardware. About $35 and is 1/2 inch 3 tpi. Unless you do scroll work on the band saw this blade will just about do everything I've ever asked for it to tackle. It also does not wear out like Craftsman blades will. I used one blade for over 2 years and the new one ( bought last year ) seems like it will give me good service too.

My bandsaw is a Craftsman 12 inch like Mike Ducheski has in his great videos. I sure wish I had a Delta cast iron table on it though but I've had the Craftsman for over 15 years. Still works great.

Happy Shavings and Holidays!

[Rich Enders]

I agree with the Wood Slicer recommendation. 80 four inch tall by 48 inch long resaws of white oak, plus two more years of general use, and it is still going strong.

[Sean Nagle]

1/2" 3 tpi on a 14" can rip, resaw and cut curves... just no tight curves.

[Mark Singer]

Olson bi metal are cheap and last a long time

[William Falberg]

Jason, as this thread goes on you'll find that every blade ever made is a "good, all-around blade". Since everyone agrees that changing blades is a PIA the obvious choice for "good all-around blade" would be the blade you got in there now. And you'd be as well off. Splitting all the differences in common band saw blades' geometry, you'd be looking for a blade with one tooth per blade width and a median thickness of .028". I like the TW 1/2-2TPI personally because it eats trees without getting into high-tension frames. Results may vary.

[Cody Colston]

I'm not gonna get into recommending brands because everyone has their favorite and "it's served me well for xxx years" or whatever. But, for an all-around blade on a 14" BS, a 3/8", 3-tpi is ideal, IMHO. You won't get a fine cut when scrolling with it but it will resaw lumber or small logs just fine.

But, just remember that there are always compromises, no matter which brand or type you use. One saw blade just will not do everything well.

If you use the same size blade (1/4, 3/8, 1/2, etc.) but vary the tooth configuration, changing blades is not a big hassle to me. You only have to remove the one that's on the saw and replace it with another tooth type...no messing with the guides or thrust bearing is necessary. It takes me about 3 minutes on my GO513.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Olson bi metal are cheap and last a long time1/4", 6tpi, hook pattern. 0.025 bi-metal is what lives on my saw. Been there for over six years now. I have other blades, but haven't had to use them. Maybe one day this thing will wear out.

[Paul Atkins]

" Since everyone agrees that changing blades is a PIA--" Not everyone. I can change mine in about 2 minutes and I'm back in buisness. I don't mind because the results are worth it right now.

[Stephen Edwards]

But, just remember that there are always compromises, no matter which brand or type you use. One saw blade just will not do everything well.

I agree. I'm still learning about the best blades for "all around work", too. I'm satisfied with my 1/2" Timberwolf 3TPI POS for resawing. I used to use a 3/4" but followed the advice of several creekers and switched to the 1/2 for resawing on my G0555X with riser block. It was good advice.

I'm gonna get several more Timberwolf blades for my other BS, a G0555 without riser block. I'll use their buy 3 get one free deal and see what works best for slight curves and sharper curves.

One thing I've learned, at least with 555 series: It's SO much easier and much less of a PIA to change blades simply by removing the table. It doesn't take long and sure makes aligning the lower guides a breeze instead of a chore!

[James Carmichael]

What's a good all-purpose blade for my 14" bandsaw? I use it for everything from chopping up scraps for the burn pile to cutting slight curves to light re-sawing.

I've got a 3/8" 4-tooth blade on there currently. Anybody got a better recommendation? I just HATE changing blades!!

Jason

3 or 4 TPI skip-tooth. Bi Metal if you can find it.

I re-watched David Marks shop tour a couple months back. IIRC, on his big bandsaw, he keeps a 6-TPI bi metal mounted.