blade raising on it's own while in use

[Denny Boyce]

I'm using the table saw to plane a symmetrical pattern on a board, cutting sideways to the blade. On the first practice piece everything went fine. Now on the second (good thing I choose practice twice) when cutting from right to left it's fine but on changing over to left to right for the opposite side the blade starts moving up on it own beyond the desired height. Moving as if I were slowly cranking it up. This is a Grizzly G1022. Maybe someone could give some insight as to what might be causing this.

Thanks, Denny.

[Myk Rian]

Make sure the blade height lock is working.
Right-to-left, left-to-right?
Not sure what you mean.

[Denny Boyce]

Myk, I'm not ripping or crosscutting I'm moving across the blade taking fine shavings as I move into the blade.
There's probably a name for what I'm doing I just don't know it. It's using the curvature of the blade for the shape I'm looking to get. I think it might be similar to cutting a cove.

Denny.

[Jamie Buxton]

You're cutting a cove with the table saw. If the blade is changing height while you're doing it, that's not good at all. Doesn't your saw have a lock or a clamp or something to make sure the blade height stays put?

...You might be mis-diagnosing the situation. If the workpiece bottom is not flat, you can get results like you describe...

[Scott Hildenbrand]

I was just cutting some cove a bit ago.. Fun stuff..

It's either 1) your stock is not level.. 2) the fence is shifting or 3) your lock is not working.

In case you do not have the manual..
http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g1022pro_m.pdf

To lock the blade height and bevel adjustment you need to tighten down the inner knob on the hand wheels.

[Richard Wolf]

I think it might have something to do with the back lash of the rising gears.
When moving in the one direction you are taking some of the friction off the gears and the blade is climb cutting into the wood.
Check your wheel lock or only go in the one direction.

Richard

[Scott Hildenbrand]

You'll also want to make sure you're not taking too much off at once.. It's possible to warp a saw blade if you force it to bite off more than it can chew.. 1/8th of material at once is decent.. I like to go about half the thickness of the carbide on the blade tops.

This might be some good reading for you.
http://woodgears.ca/cove/index.html

[Denny Boyce]

Thanks for all the responses. This isn't my saw and after looking at the pdf manual I see where the blade lock is located. And that is probably what is needed to correct the problem. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

Denny

[Dale Coons]

Its a loose gear. get underneath the saw, make sure all the gears and collars are where they are supposed to be and tighten everything up good. I haven't had a problem since (probably 3 years ago).

[mickey cassiba]

I think it might have something to do with the back lash of the rising gears.
When moving in the one direction you are taking some of the friction off the gears and the blade is climb cutting into the wood.
Check your wheel lock or only go in the one direction.

Richard
+1 When adjusting the height of a machine, I was taught to go below the desired height, and then raise to final, thus eliminating the backlash problem. If you go down after raising the blade, you have a gap between the elevating gears, which could result in the problem you describe. Not saying that that is the problem, just one possibility.
Mick