Jig for making small 2" hexagons

[Jon Crowley]

I'm working on a project where I'm making a lot of wooden hex bolts. The head of each bolt would be a hexagon 3/4" thick and 2" between flat sides. I'm looking for ideas on how to make a jig to cut the hexes quickly.

Since these are going to bolt heads, and will have a recess to receive a dowel, I'm thinking that can be used to my advantage. See the attached picture for my table saw jig idea. The thought is I start with a 2" wide board, and drill a non through hole for the dowel. That hole keeps it centered, and a 30 degree fence sets the angle. The sled would run through the miter slot... just cut, quickly rotate the piece on the index dowel, and repeat.

Can you guys think of any better ways?

[David DeCristoforo]

I think your jig idea is fine. The only thing I would add would ba a DeStaCo clamp to secure the piece. @ 2" across, your fingers will be a tad too close to the blade for comfort and small pieces have a tendency to get "flung"...

[Jon Crowley]

Excellent idea. I think I have one of those I can "borrow" from another jig. :)

[John R Green]

Start with square stock "x" feet long.
Rip bevels with table saw until you have hex shape.
Cut 3/4" thick pieces with miter saw.

Just like slicing a loaf bread.

[Jon Crowley]

Start with square stock "x" feet long.
Rip bevels with table saw until you have hex shape.
Cut 3/4" thick pieces with miter saw.

Just like slicing a loaf bread.

That *is* a great idea also, but there may be concerns for this particular application... The end grain would be on the hex shaped surfaces, and would make rather weak nuts/bolt heads. Weak nuts are bad... :o :D

[Jamie Buxton]

That *is* a great idea also, but there may be concerns for this particular application... The end grain would be on the hex shaped surfaces, and would make rather weak nuts/bolt heads. Weak nuts are bad... :o :D

I don't understand why putting the endgrain on the hexagonal face would weaken the head. Heck, that way the grain is running the same direction as the grain in the dowel, and you're okay with the dowel, right. And on top of it, the glue joint between the dowel and the head is then going to be face grain all the way around the dowel, so that's good.

[glenn bradley]

I favor the sliced bread idea. Something with a tight grain like maple would work well (I would guess, no experience). The reduced workload in making them would sure make me try it out.

[Stephen Edwards]

....your fingers will be a tad too close to the blade for comfort and small pieces have a tendency to get "flung"...

I can ouch, I mean vouch, for that!

[Kent A Bathurst]

....... Weak nuts are bad... :o :D

Uhhh - nope. Comments withdrawn before send button.;)

[Andrew Schlosser]

I love wooden bolts. so many cool things you can do with them. Get Beall's book if you haven't already.
I would use 2 jigs-
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/sanding/dowel-chamfering-jig/ to soften the edge of the dowel
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip020215sn.html to cut the bolt edges.

[John R Green]

-Cut 2"x2"x3/4" slices of ( select wood species with proper grain orientation)
-Drill hole through center
-Stand all on edge
-skew with threaded rod + nuts & washers on both ends - shish kabob style
-run through table saw to achieve hex profile
-remove threaded rod

[Larry Frank]

I built a very similar jig to cut hex heads for wooden bolts. It looked similar to yours exept that it mounted on the miter guage and used a hold down clamp to keep my fingers away from the blade or the potential of a piece coming loose.