Jet proshop splitter and 220 v plugs

[jack darcy]

I have a jet prohop tablesaw and I love everything about it except for the blade guard. Does anyone have this saw or know of an after-market splitter for it? The beismeyer splitter wont fit on the saw.

Also What type of plug do you guys use for your 220v tools?

Thanks

[John Harden]

Jack, can't help you with the saw but for plugs, I use NEMA L6-30 twist locks. Readily available at your local Home Depot, Lowes, or electrical supply store.

The PM-66 I used to have pulled 17 amps and they recommended a 30 amp circuit for it, which is what got me started on this standard. Since then, I've sold that saw, gotten a different one, and brought in mostly 220V tools. Standardizing on a plug/recepticle configuraton helps when you make changes to the shop layout. I have six of them scattered around the shop now.

If you do this, be sure to size the breaker for the tool.

For example, the power feeder for the saw/shaper is 220V but only draws about 4 amps. There's no harm in using a 30 amp rated plug, extension cord or recepticle, but if you use a 30 amp breaker, the tool will burn up (literally) long before the breaker trips. Size the breaker for the tool. If it needs a 10 or 20 amp breaker, make sure this is what you install.

Point is, it's okay to go oversize on everything but the breaker. My shop made extension cords for 220V tools are all 10 gauge with the L6-30P and R plugs. Don't go undersize on anything.

Regards,

John

[Josiah Bartlett]

I use NEMA 6-30 plugs and a 30 amp breaker, mainly because my Unisaw came with a 6-30 plug and I just expanded from there. However, all my 220v tools have their own fuses or built in overload protection. If I was starting over I would use 14-30 plugs so I could have a neutral to go along with the ground for running the lights on my bandsaw. 14-30 are compatible with new dryer sockets and molded cords are easy to find.

[Matthew Hills]

I have a jet prohop tablesaw and I love everything about it except for the blade guard. Does anyone have this saw or know of an after-market splitter for it? The beismeyer splitter wont fit on the saw.

I got a Shark Guard (http://www.leestyron.com/sharkjetjps.php) for the proshop. It is easier to switch in and out than the factory guard, and it doesn't get hung up on the workpieces like the factory guard did for me. It isn't as convenient as a true riving knife system, though, and I do remove it when I'm using my crosscut sled. If you're interested, I can take a photo or shoot a short video showing the system.

In the meantime, here's someone else's photo showing the basic system:
http://www.leestyron.com/images/ptshark.jpg

Matt

[Larry Rasmussen]

I ordered a set of three splitters from the guy that makes the Shark Guards, web site is http://leestyron.com/ . Since the Proshop set up does not accomodate a riving knife this is the next best choice I think. The splitter location does not change so the distance from the back edge of the table saw blade to the splitter differs as you raise or lower the blade. Anyway you pick the closest of the 3 splitters to your blade for the set up you are using. I do not use the guard itself so did not order the aftermarket shark guard part of the set up.

I wanted to pitch in here to let you know to be careful to order a compatible width splitter to the width blade you are using. I am often using a Freud thin blade, about .90". The splitter that came with the saw is much wider and literally unusable with my thin blades. There is more about this on the web site.

Regards,
Larry R,
Seattle

[Tom Veatch]

...
If you do this, be sure to size the breaker for the tool.

For example, the power feeder for the saw/shaper is 220V but only draws about 4 amps. There's no harm in using a 30 amp rated plug, extension cord or receptacle, but if you use a 30 amp breaker, the tool will burn up (literally) long before the breaker trips. Size the breaker for the tool. If it needs a 10 or 20 amp breaker, make sure this is what you install.

Point is, it's okay to go oversize on everything but the breaker. My shop made extension cords for 220V tools are all 10 gauge with the L6-30P and R plugs. Don't go undersize on anything.



I believe you'll find it's a code violation to "go oversize on everything but the breaker". Plugs and receptacles must match the breaker. 30 amp breakers require 30 amp receptacles. 20amp breakers require 20 amp receptacles. The only exception is 15 amp receptacles can be used on 20 amp circuits if there is more than one outlet.

If my understanding of the code requirements is incorrect, I welcome knowledgeable correction to that understanding.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I used these, so I would have 110 available at each 220 drop.
http://www.onestopbuy.com/productimages/leviton/lev-5031.jpg (http://www.onestopbuy.com/leviton/5031-7609.asp#)

[Rod Sheridan]

I have a jet prohop tablesaw and I love everything about it except for the blade guard. Does anyone have this saw or know of an after-market splitter for it? The beismeyer splitter wont fit on the saw.

Also What type of plug do you guys use for your 220v tools?

Thanks

I use 6-15 (250V 15A) or 6-20 (250V 20A) straight blade devices depending upon the breaker size. This is the most economical choice if it fits your current requirements.

Of course I don't own anything that requires a larger circuit, as my 240 volt tools are either 3 or 4 HP with high power factor/high efficiency motors.

Regards, Rod.