Some simple guidance

[doug king]

OK lets talk about inlays for a second... Here is my dilemma...

I have a piece of wood, I engrave the wood to an 1/8 of an inch, it takes several passes and I change the focus each time... I then get 1/8 inch acrylic and cut out the shape but when I put the acrylic in the wood it only goes down about half way.. The reason is because as the laser etches into the wood it slightly slants in.. I tried to change the laser focus to clean up the edges but I figure I can keep pushing through it or just ask...

I suppose the easiest thing is to get thinner acrylic but I would have to still etch 1/8 inch to get 1/16 to fit...

What is the secret for this?

Doug

[Bruce Volden]

A pic of your problem would really help me out. Are you rastering the wood to a depth of 1/8" and then attempting to inlay acrylic in this recess?

Bruce

[Doug Griffith]

Also flip the image and cut the acrylic from the back side. This will help the angled kerfs nest into eachother.

[doug king]

Are you rastering the wood to a depth of 1/8" and then attempting to inlay acrylic in this recess That is correct.... I will put an image up...


Try running a vector outline of the pocket once you engrave it. Adjust the power so that you do not cut all the way through.

Ahhhh that makes sense....


Also flip the image and cut the acrylic from the back side. This will help the angled kerfs nest into eachother

I reverse the cut on the acrylic....

[Doug Griffith]

If you vector the perimeter, I suggest you do it prior to rastering to get a straighter edge. It will also be more predictable since it isn't cutting through the edge of a pre-charred substrate. Also choke the vector in 1/2 the thickness of the kerf.

[doug king]

ohhhh a new word.... What is kerf...

[laura passek]

Kerf is the thickness of the cut line.

[donald bugansky]

If you vector the perimeter, I suggest you do it prior to rastering to get a straighter edge. It will also be more predictable since it isn't cutting through the edge of a pre-charred substrate. Also choke the vector in 1/2 the thickness of the kerf.

Can you explain how this is done in Corel?

Thx

[Mike Null]

Choke is probably not the right word. He is suggesting that you adjust the drawing by one half the thickness of the kerf. Depending on your result, enlarge or reduce the drawing by roughly .003".

[Richard Rumancik]

One way to offset the vector:

1) make sure it is closed
2) save a copy of the UN-offset shape somewhere for future use
3) set line width to very small eg .00001"
4) select object
5) click on Interactive Contour tool
6) set offset to 1/2 of beam diameter (=kerf) eg .0015"
7) set number of steps to one (1)
8) select "INSIDE" contour
9) click Arrage ->break contour group apart
10) delete the outside (original) line
11) make a notation in the file that the shape has been offset inside by .xxxx"

You may get a LOT of nodes on the offset shape. However I would not delete nodes unless it causes lasering problems.

[Doug Griffith]

In my world which began with print, "choke" means to move inwards or shift inwards the stroke (or vector line). Shrinking the image is not the same thing as it modifies the overall dimensions.

[doug king]

If you guys were here I'd kiss ya.... well maybe not but you get what I mean...

These tips and tricks are priceless....

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[Mike Chance in Iowa]

Nice work! It looks great!

[Dan Hintz]

Also, cut the wood using the portion of the beam above the waist (focal point), and cut the acrylic using the portion of the beam below the waist. This will create an inward slope on the wood, and an outward slope on the acrylic... that should help seat the acrylic.

[Rodne Gold]

It really is a waste of time and resources to inlay thick stuff if the result is flush...try get MUCH thinner material to inlay - you could use a lot of other materials to get the same effect.

[Mike Null]

I agree with Rodney.

In this case I don't follow the "choke" idea as this is a closed curve vector.

[Sergio Arze]

It really is a waste of time and resources to inlay thick stuff if the result is flush...try get MUCH thinner material to inlay - you could use a lot of other materials to get the same effect.

so true!!:)

[Doug Griffith]

I agree with Rodney.

In this case I don't follow the "choke" idea as this is a closed curve vector.

I agree with Rodney too but I can see how getting thinner and laserable materials that meet the design requirement might be an issue. Especially for those not embedded in the industry.

As for "choke" or offsetting inwards, I attached a pic showing the difference. Choking moves the line evenly inwards. Shrinking reduces the size proportionately.

[doug king]

It really is a waste of time and resources to inlay thick stuff if the result is flush...try get MUCH thinner material to inlay - you could use a lot of other materials to get the same effect.


It really is a waste of time and resources to inlay thick stuff if the result is flush

Explain this to me, are you saying that having the wood and the acrylic flush together is bad or a poor choice? If that is not the "Accepted way" then what is? I agree it would be easier and faster with thinner material and I have some on order but I wanted to know how to do this if in a pinch I needed to....

[Dan Hintz]

I think what Rodney is saying is there's little point in the acrylic being set so deep into the wood if all you're after is the look. People can't tell it's 1" acrylic or 1/16" acrylic when everything is flush, but the 1/16" will be easier to cut on both the wood and acrylic sid eof things.