'standard' grind bowl gouges

[Mike Minto]

anybody here still us the 'old' style, non-fingernail bowl gouges? if so, what do you find it is more useful for than the fingernail style? i don't have one, and feel like i need a new tool. thanks.

[Richard Madison]

Mike, My favorite general purpose gouge is a 5/8"V Sorby with what I call a straight conical grind (standard or traditional grind). It's a moderate V, used for roughing, general shaping, scraping and shear shraping. Does not hold an edge quite as well as the Thompsons but is faster and easier to sharpen since no jig is required. Probably favor this one since it was the first gouge I learned to use properly, and it's getting rather short now. Also regularly use a couple of Thompson V's with "fingernail" grinds.

Note the Sorby is a "rounder" V than the Thompsons, which I think makes it more versatile. Good for gentle hollowing from the center out. Probably the Thompson 1/2"U with traditional grind would be similarly versatile. The 5/8"U I tried was a bit too big for me. Maybe grind back the corners just a hair.

[Dennis Ford]

I have one ground with the traditional shape at about 65 degrees. It works great for the bottom of deeper bowls. For this use, large gouges handle overhang better.

[Ryan Baker]

I also have a traditional grind bowl gouge that is great for the bottoms of bowls and other deep forms. Mine is a 5/8" U Thompson ground at 80-85 degrees.

[Dan Forman]

I too have a Sorby u shaped with a semi traditional grind, don't know the exact angle, but it"s steeper in the nose, and has very short wings with a shallower bevel there. It works well for the bottom half of a bowl, right about where it gets hard to stay smooth with a fingernail grind. That steep cutting angle helps to prevent tearout too. It also works well turning curved endgrain on spindles while minimizing tearout.

Dan

[Bernie Weishapl]

Mike I use the conventional grind P & N 3/8" and 1/2" bowl gouge for my final 2 or 3 cuts. I watched Mike Mahoney use these and it does give you a very smooth cut.

[Thom Sturgill]

I use three different grinds - Irish or fingernail for shear scraping and bowl sides, conventional for the bottom and a modified fingernail grind with the bottom of the bevel ground away for the middle or transitional area. Currently, my conventional grind is my lightest gouge, but then I don't do large turnings on my 1220VS, and that's the way it was bought while the others came with a fingernail grind.

[Reed Gray]

To me, a traditional grind is one like Mike Mahoney and Stewart Batty use. You can see Mike grind one on You Tube. 45 degree bevel, 45 degree sweep. I have found this one to be better for me anyway, for going down the outside of a bowl, and across the bottom, and okay for going down the inside of the bowl, but not for making the transition. It seems to do okay for roughing on the outside, but not as well on the inside because of the high wing on the nose. You have to rotate the flutes to 3 o'clock, or it gets grabby.

The swept back design works well for roughing cuts as there is a lot of steel cutting edge you can get into the wood if your lathe has the power. If you have a shallow bowl, or if you have a more blunt angle on the nose in the 60 or so degree range, it goes down the inside and across the bottom well.

The other gouge would have almost no sweep, and a 60 or so degree bevel. Okay down the sides, and great for the transition and bottom, but not so good for hogging out material. The swept back design lets you use the nose for roughing, then the wings for shear cuts.

I prefer a heavy scraper for shear cuts and roughing cuts.

robo hippy