Do you "Break" your sandpaper?

[Yitah Wu]

I was trying to explain this to someone and it occurred to me that it might be something strange I learned...

Whenever I use regular sandpaper, I "Break" it by drawing it across a sharp edge (workbench edge for example) I pull it across a couple of times in different orientations to flex the paper and crack the adhesive.

IIRC I was told to do this in woodworking class perhaps in 7th grade.

From what I can tell it makes the sandpaper last longer by making it harder to load up and preventing the grit from coming off in chunks.

Do you do this? What do you call it?

[Paul Atkins]

Sounds interesting - never tried it. Most of my use is on the lathe and the paper get pretty 'broken' fairly quickly.

[glenn bradley]

I voted "huh?" but am pretty sure this is not a requirement on our modern paper/adhesive products(?). The paper I use is quite flexible right out of the pack.

[Mark Rios]

I call it crumpling.

[Jeff Willard]

Well, so far I'm the only "always". Most of my paper use is on the lathe, and that's where I learned it. It breaks the fibers in the paper, making it more flexible, and helps avoid a knife edge when the paper bends, minimizing ultra-deep sanding scratches, particularly on the inside of bowls.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Well, so far I'm the only "always". Most of my paper use is on the lathe, and that's where I learned it. It breaks the fibers in the paper, making it more flexible, and helps avoid a knife edge when the paper bends, minimizing ultra-deep sanding scratches, particularly on the inside of bowls.

Wow, I'll have to try that...... Thanks!

[Scott Crumpton]

Most of my 1/4 sheets have acquired a curl toward the grit side of the paper. When using the 1/4 sheet ROS I always reverse the curl so as not to present the curled edge to the work surface.

[Josh Reet]

This thread brought up a long lost memory of my father doing that with his sandpaper. But I've got to admit, I haven't done it once in my adult life.

[Alan Bienlein]

I guess I'm only the second person to know what he was talking about. I learned from watching my father in the shop when I was a little kid. The paper folds so much easier and sands more consistently IMO.

[phil harold]

I voted always
but
really should have clicked "most of the time"

[Kent A Bathurst]

Well, so far I'm the only "always". Most of my paper use is on the lathe, and that's where I learned it. It breaks the fibers in the paper, making it more flexible, and helps avoid a knife edge when the paper bends, minimizing ultra-deep sanding scratches, particularly on the inside of bowls.

I'm number 4. In deference to the recently deceased Patrick McGoohan, I should have waited a bit so I could be Number Six - but it's late here on the right coast, and it's bedtime.

[Wayne Sparkman]

For all the old handtool knowledge being brought back, there's still a thing or two to learn!

I'd like to hear feedback after some of you try this.

[Matthew Chamberlin]

I was taught to do almost a decade ago in High school woods class. I've never really been sure if it makes the sand paper last longer, so i tend to do intermittently.

[Tony Bilello]

............Whenever I use regular sandpaper, I "Break" it by drawing it across a sharp edge (workbench edge for example) I pull it across a couple of times in different orientations to flex the paper and crack the adhesive. .......From what I can tell it makes the sandpaper last longer by making it harder to load up and preventing the grit from coming off in chunks......

I dont know what brand or kind of sandpaper you are using so I can not comment on it. However, in my personal experience, I have not had sandpaper crack or grit fall off in chunks in well over 30 years. That was quite common on the old garnet paper. I use mostly 3M brand. Tomorrow I will try to remember to look at my sandpaper file cabinet and note the brand and the model.

[Yitah Wu]

I dont know what brand or kind of sandpaper you are using so I can not comment on it.

I typically use SiC or AlO papers, though I do have some garnet my dad bought perhaps 30-40 years ago.

I can't say whether chunks fall off if I don't "break" AlO paper since it's such a habit to do so. Obviously more of a potential on coarser grits and heavier papers.

As someone else pointed out, this makes the paper much more flexible for sanding curves, etc. Otherwise your paper gets crinkly - corners then don't do as good a job.

I do notice chunks coming off 120 grit H/L Mirka "gold" paper when re-use paper from my ROS to do hand sanding.

[Brian Kerley]

In Popular Woodworking they had an article about how sandpaper is made. At the factory, they break it there so you don't have to back at your house. They do it to the entire roll before it gets cut up into the individual sheets, pads, etc.

[Josh Reet]

In Popular Woodworking they had an article about how sandpaper is made. At the factory, they break it there so you don't have to back at your house. They do it to the entire roll before it gets cut up into the individual sheets, pads, etc.

That is interesting to know.

[Lee Schierer]

I tried that but the adhesive backing keeps getting stuck.....:D

[Tim Livingston]

I've copied my Grandfathers jig for sand paper, it's laid out for the differnt sizes I need to cut depending on what it's used for, you lay a whole sheet on a 8.5x11 jig and cut it through the desired slots. Comes out perfect everytime. Put it right on the palm sander or the the hand sanding block.

[Brian Penning]

I was trying to explain this to someone and it occurred to me that it might be something strange I learned...

Whenever I use regular sandpaper, I "Break" it by drawing it across a sharp edge (workbench edge for example) I pull it across a couple of times in different orientations to flex the paper and crack the adhesive.

IIRC I was told to do this in woodworking class perhaps in 7th grade.

From what I can tell it makes the sandpaper last longer by making it harder to load up and preventing the grit from coming off in chunks.

Do you do this? What do you call it?


Er....how old are you anyway? Cause that's really old stuff. ;)
We don't have to do that anymore.

Pssst...got any 45's still laying around? hehee;):p

[Paul Atkins]

Yeah, they probably won't let 7th graders use sandpaper any more -someone might get hurt and sue.

[Myk Rian]

I think sand paper backing, and the adhesive has come a long way since you, and I, may have been in grade school.

[Rick Fisher]

I am 42 .. I always do that.. Never really occured to me that we didnt need to anymore.. Huh..

I took woodshop all through school and my dad was a builder when I was a kid..

I guess I will try it without breaking it.. Makes sense that they would have dealt with that years ago... lol..

I still hand sand everything.. After running my ROS over it, I still take a 1/4 sheet and go over it lightly.. probably makes no difference but ..

Wow. I am surprised so few people do it.

[Brian Kerley]

That is interesting to know.

Here's the link to the video
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/video_how_sandpaper_is_made/

At about 1:40 is where they break the paper

[Yitah Wu]

Er....how old are you anyway? Cause that's really old stuff. ;)
We don't have to do that anymore.

Pssst...got any 45's still laying around? hehee;):p


43, and yes, I do actually still have 45's and LP's, though I haven't played them in years.....

Not sure when I learned to do this but I even took wood classes in elementary school...my first real woodshop class was in 7th grade and the teacher was NOT a young man....

Although they "Break" it at the factory, I still notice a difference on the stuff I buy before and after I draw it across an edge. I'll probably get lazier about it now, but if I'm sanding curves or fine detail I know it definitely makes the paper more flexible.....

[Brian J McMillan]

I do it but only on a pole sander when sanding drywall. It keeps the edges of the paper from curling forward and cutting lines into the filler when your sanding. I never thought to do it when working wood.

[kevin loftus]

Alway's for me too, even here over the pond.:)

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I just tried breaking the paper. I used some Norton, and broke teh paper on the way of my lathe. I could hear the paper "break". It seemed to really soften up the paper. I used some 100 grit in a bowl Worked good, none of those deep gouges (so far).

Thanks, OP, for posting this. I think it's a valid practice. Besides, what could it hurt?

I did check "HUH?"

Learn something new EVERY day....

[Rick Fisher]

Well.. Today.. i used some sandpaper without breaking it .. I wanted to try it.. lol..

The paper was too rigid.. After a couple of minutes, I stopped an ran it over the edge of the workbench.. :D

I know I was probably looking for a problem.. but I prefer to break the back of the paper..

I am going to a big wholesale trade show in January.. I will ask a sandpaper vendor if its still considered good practice.. I will report back..

[Alan Bienlein]

Here's the link to the video
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/video_how_sandpaper_is_made/

At about 1:40 is where they break the paper

Bending it around that large drum isn't the same as drawing it over the edge of your work bench. I've had sheets of Norton sandpaper tear on a 1/4 sheet sander because the guys using it didn't know to break the paper to make it flex better. Even though they say the glue is cured it still is not fully cured when they break it.

[Tony Bilello]

I just remembered a recent experience that I forgot all about. I had used Norton paper in the recent past in an emegency. I have found that it was quite inferior to 3M. The Norton paper not only cracked but literally fell apart under use. The abrasive action was very short lived. Apparently, abrasive sheets are like everything else, you get what you pay for. I usually use 3M C weight paper for my normal dry sanding. I never tried the A weight thinking it is too thin, I could be wrong.
A good source for quality paper is an automotive paint store. They usually carry the good stuff and 1 low grade for the bargain hunters. Stay away from the low grade stuff. The more expensive stuff normally gives you much more bang for the buck than does the cheap stuff.
Sandpaper doesnt have much of a useful life and most people tend to use the paper well beyond it's intended life. Usually when power sanding with a 1/4 or 1/2 sheet sander, I slap the bottom of the sander a few times every minute or so while the sander is on. That helps clean the sandpaper. I dont do this with a disk sander, Shut it off first. I guess the disk is more intimidating because of the greater power, speed and rotary action. If you check the paper every minute or so with the sander off, you can feel the difference between a new sheet and a 1 minute old sheet. It dont take long to wear out the paper.

[Harry Goodwin]

I've always done this for curved or irregular surfaces. Never done it on flat stock.. always fold for three thicknesses and it won't slip. HG

[Greg Sznajdruk]

49 years ago in the seventh grade Mr. Slater's shop class you did break sandpaper or else. I guess Mr. Slater made an impression since 49 years I still break sandpaper. I also always lay a plane down on its side regardless of the surface. Bench chisels laying on the workbench are alternated so cutting edges can't touch. Still have and use the mahogany coffee table built as the shop project.

Haven't thought of Mr. Slater in years, brings back some fond memories.

Greg