Question regarding jointer

[Reid Maier]

To all,

I've recently purchased a Grizzly 8 inch jointer. I spent a considerable amount of time getting it set up to what I thought was correct. However, over the past weekend, I attempted to join the edge of a approx. 46" long by 18" tall by 1 1/2 thick panel. As I pushed the panel through the jointer, the front edge would begin cutting and would continue cutting until I get approx. 6 inches from the end of the panel. I could not get the trailing edge to cut. I'm thinking I've got something not quite right with the adjustments on the jointer or I could be doing something wrong with my technique. Any ideas what my problem is?

Thanks in advance.

Reid

[Keith Harrell]

Sounds like the output table is to high. It should be as high as the knifes in the joiner. Lay a straight edge on the outfeed table and it should just kiss the knifes.
All your pressure should be pushing down on the outfeed table(not above the blade area) as you near the trailing edge of the board

[Jason White]

Sounds like you're either not applying enough downward pressure on the "outfeed" side when running a board through, or you don't have all of the knives set perfectly flush with the outfeed table at top dead center , or the knives are dull. Or all of the above.

Jason


Sorry - initially posted this to the wrong group.

To all,

I've recently purchased a Grizzly 8 inch jointer. I spent a considerable amount of time getting it set up to what I thought was correct. However, over the past weekend, I attempted to join the edge of a approx. 46" long by 18" tall by 1 1/2 thick panel. As I pushed the panel through the jointer, the front edge would begin cutting and would continue cutting until I get approx. 6 inches from the end of the panel. I could not get the trailing edge to cut. I'm thinking I've got something not quite right with the adjustments on the jointer or I could be doing something wrong with my technique. Any ideas what my problem is?

Thanks in advance.

Reid

[James White]

Reid,

This should be in the general woodworking forum. I am sure one of the Mods will move it for you.

It sounds like your out feed table may be a hair higher than the knives. You should check with a reliable straight edge and the cutter at top dead center. Check each knife both near the fence and near the operator.

http://home.usmo.com/~rfwoodworking/jointer.html

James

[Mike Goetzke]

Reid - which jointer did you get? I'm on the fence to upgrade my 6".

Thanks,

Mike

[Dave Gaul]

Reid, when you say a "considerable amount of time".... how much time do you mean, and what methods did you use?
I ask since I myself recently aquired my first jointer, an old IMS 6" one. It was in decent shape, just needed some minor rust removal and some tweaking on the tables and new knives. Ordered new knives, started clean up. When I got the new knives, put them in, started lining things up. Thought it would be quick and easy... boy was I wrong!! First several attempts of trying to get it done the "easy" way and realized it wasn't gonna happen. My framer's square and combo square with a ruler just were not gonna cut it! Ordered a 24" preceision straight edge and a set of feeler gauges (good things to have anyway!!!). Set aside several hours to get this thing right! After leveling both tables, finding Top Dead Center and MANY attempts of getting the 3 knives set just right, my jointer is accurate to .003". Not bad for a jointer that is probably older than I am!

Guess what I'm trying to say is, make sure you have the right tools and methods, and plenty of time to get it right! The method that worked for me was described in a FWW article found on a google search.

[Philip Rodriquez]

The problem could be several things, ranging from your technique to your blade/table settings.

I have no affiliation with the company. However, it is one of the best tools in the shop.
http://www.oneway.ca/workshop/multi-gauge.htm

[Charles Davis]

I have the same jointer and had the same situation. I had to adjust the plane of both tables requiring adjustments of the four sets of bushings on each. First, aligned the plane of the outfeed table so that it is even with the cutterhead.... I believe I used the body of the cutterhead as the reference (not the knives as their height is variable). Then with the aid of a 48" straightedge from Lee Valley I made the outfeed table parallel with the infeed table by adjusting the same set of bushings on the infeed table. Remember to put the straightedge straight across at the edges as well as making the "X" check per the manual. Lastly I brought up the outfeed table to the knives and set the knives all the same height equal to the height of the outfeed table when the knives are in the top, dead center position.

So again, check for outfeed table parallelism with cutterhead body as well as with outfeed table. My machine came with all those adjustments significantly off... That all being said, since I made all these adjustments I could not be happier with this machine. Cuts like a dream. Just need to get it initially set up for action. Also suggest making the changes to close off the dust chute and secure the motor for decreased vibration. Just search the forum with the model number and those fixes will show up.

Good luck with it... you'll love machine very soon!

Also, if you are new to using a jointer be aware that you will always have an easier time jointing and waste much less material if you rough cut your stock to near final dimensions first.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Merged the two threads and edited.

[Glen Blanchard]

This thing helped me a TON with knife alignment!!

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000908/102/Jointer-Jig--Magna-Set--Polycarbonate-Body.aspx

[Reid Maier]

Wow - thanks to you all for responding.

I've got the Grizzly 586 model. I now have a couple things to check next time I get out to the shop. I do know that I was probably NOT transfering enough down pressure on the outfeed side as I pushed through. I was more concerned with keeping the panel tight to the fence and not allowing it to tilt on the infeed table. I think I was applying very little downward pressure on the outfeed table.

I spent a couple hours getting the jointer all adjusted but after listening to you guys - I probably don't have the necessary equipment (yet) to do the job the right way. I've got a dial indicator but sounds like I'll need to buy an accurate straightedge as well a knife setting guage and then start over. I will definitely check again that the outfeed table is exactly the same height as the knives.

Thanks to all for the great suggestions and ideas.


Reid

[Glen Blanchard]

I was more concerned with keeping the panel tight to the fence and not allowing it to tilt on the infeed table.


Reid - Were you face jointing? If so, there is no need to keep the stock against the fence. Once the face has been jointed and you are jointing one of the edges, THEN it is important to keep it against the fence.

Hope that helps.

[James G. McQueen]

The first thing to test is the height of the blades. As the other members indicated. More than likely your blades are to low. They suggest you use a straight edge to check the blades but there is another way. You can use a piece of 1/2" x 1/2" stock that is straight about 12" long. Check it on your outfeed table to see if it sits flat if it does then its straight.

2" from one end make a pencil mark. Line this mark up with the edge of the outfeed table with the 2" section hanging out over the blades. Rotate your blade clockwise and that should pull the stick towards the infeed table. Generally the stick should move about 1/8" to 1/4" if your outfeed table and blades are aligned properly.

This will indicate that the blades are actually about .003" above the outfeed table. About the thickness of one human hair. This will give you the best results on your jointer. If you go above the .003" you will develop a snipe on the trailing edge of your board.

Try this first and work on putting your pressure on the outfeed table.


If anyone is close to the Lee Valley in Burlington Ont. and interested, I will be there on March 25, 2010 to do a 3 hour seminar on the Jointer. They will post it on there website sometime around the first week in Febuary.

[Reid Maier]

Hi again,

I was jointing the edge of my panel - trying to get it trued up so I could rip the opposite edge with my table saw.

James - I will try what you suggested this weekend. Sounds like a easy check to perform.

Thanks much!

Reid

[David DeCristoforo]

Reid, you don't need a bunch of expensive equipment to set your jointer knives. All you need is a good steel ruler. Set the outfeed table at approximately the correct height. Then set the ruler on the outfeed table, on edge with an inch or so extending past the center of the cutting circle. Then adjust the knives so that they just "kiss" the edge of the ruler when you rotate the cutter head. Check at both ends of the knives. I've been setting jointer knives like this for almost forty years and I can tell you that you don't need to get any more precise than this.

[Myk Rian]

I'm with David. I set the knives so when I rotate the head back and forth, the rule moves the same distance no matter where I put it on the knives. I try to make that distance 1/8".

[Curt Taylor]

Reid - You've recieve alot of good suggestions so far but I'd like to just make a quick suggestion. You may well have something out of adjustment with the tool but before spending another couple hours checking adjustments on it, set aside you big panel, find a fairly stright board, one that may not even need jointing and run it across on one of the wide faces. Use that face to get a 90 on one of the narrow faces. Check the board to see if it's getting jointed correctly. This may well tell you if it's the machine or your technique. It's a fast test.

[Myk Rian]

There ought to be a sticky for this subject.

[george wilson]

I had a Magna Set,and found it to be useless. As soon as you start to tighten down the screws to lock the blades in,the magnets can't hold the blades any longer,and they break loose from the Magna Set. I use the method described above by another poster who uses a stick. Now I use Dispoz A Blade,and setting the knives is VERY quick and VERY easy. It is sold by Grizzly and is well worth investing in.

[Don Morris]

After all the adjustments are done, and David is right, all you need is a good steel ruler. I have used several aids, the ruler works just as well, then technique plays just as important role. Bad body positioning, non-uniform pressure will give you an uneven board or edge, it's not just the tables or the knives. I got bit in the back side by technique a couple times before I realized, the machine was fine...it was me!

[Mark Levitski]

Reid,

Might be as simple as your board is bowed a bit and will need a few passes until your cutting the whole length.

As much as wood moves after it is "dry" and "finished", I'm continually surprised at the effort that people put into set-ups to the thousandths of an inch. I have a friend who is a machinist, and he just scratches his head and laughs when I tell him about this calibration obsession. "This is wood, not metal, and these are not aircraft parts," he said.

I have another friend who is a long-time cabinetmaker, and although he is careful to detail and does fine, high-end work, he stops setting up at a certain point after which it is good enough and will not matter to the finished piece.