Butcher block counter top

[Shawn Siegrist]

I would like to make end grain butcher block counter tops, what kind of glue and what kind of finish should I use?

Thanks,
Shawn

[John Czaplicki]

glue......Titebond II is what I use 99% of the time for this application. I've also used Gorilla white glue. Both are water resistant and approved for indirect food contact.

Finish....I've only used mineral oil and mineral oil/beeswax mixture. They don't dry, but are super simple and affective to apply and maintain. It's the finish of choice for most food applications.

I've toyed with the idea of using pure tung oil, but I haven't tried it. It will dry/cure, but it has a strong odor, and I don't know how the properties of tung oil will hold up under use. A large project like a counter top coated with tung oil will smell very strong for a long time....but I do love the smell.

How large is this counter top? Making a large countertop with end grain is not a simple project. May I suggest making a 18 x 24 version first.....it will pay dividends in the long run.

[Philip Rodriquez]

I would go with TBIII and rent some time on a wide-belt sander.

[Thomas Pender]

Since it is your first time, you will be wise to take advantage of the longer set up time with TBIII vs. TBII. Also, the advice on renting wide-belt sander time is inspired - best way to get it even. No way I would try and use a planer on end grain wood (but I bet there are some guys who could use a razor sharp BU LV Smoother and get excellent results - but not me).

The way I found folks with tools like big sanders and planers was to ask my wood supplier (Northland Forest Products for me). The manager always has an idea of who has what equipment based upon what folks tell him and what they buy.

I also agree with John that you try a smaller project first to gain skill and experience. A large end grain surface is one of the most difficult coordination jobs I can think of.

[Shawn Siegrist]

Thank you both for your advice.

[Howard Acheson]

There is a little engineering that needs to be considered when building an end grain butcher block or cutting board. First, choose wood where the growth rings (viewed from the end) run as close to 90 degrees or parallel to one edge. Remember, the expansion/contraction is about double along the annular rings verses perpendicular to the rings. You've got to keep the grain running in the same direction as you glue up your strips. In other words, don't glue a flatsawn edge to a quartersawn edge.

Next, the way butcher blocks are made is to glue up strips of wood like you were making a laminated type cutting board. These laminated panels are then run through a planer to flatten them and bring them to equal thickness. Then the panel is crosscut into strips of blocks equal to the thickness that you want the butcher block to be. These block strips are then glued together again keeping the grain running in the same directions.

Not paying attention to the grain orientation will lead to the block cracking and/or joints being pulled apart.

A type II adhesive will work just fine however, you need to be sure you do everything right to get good adhesion. Your glue faces should be flat and freshly cut. It they were cut more than a few days earlier, freshen them up with about three swipes with 320 sandpaper and block to keep the faces flat.

Generally, threaded rod is not used as hardwoods hae quite a bit of movement when their moisture content changes. Threaded rod would restrict this movement and either deform the block or pull the nut/washers into the wood when it expanded leaving the rod performing no function when the wood later shrinks. Proper gluing will keep the block together.

Finally, it always much cheaper, and a lot less aggrevating to purchase a butcher block than to make one. The firms that specialize in end grain butcher blocks have speciaiized equipment to apply the necessary clamping force, plane the initial boards exactly correctly, plane the first glue up and then clamps to make the final block.