edge beading - tools and technique

[Tyler Davis]

I am getting geared up for a new project - nightstands. Below is the current design. http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wxKiTvol-tY/SxPWgZT86GI/AAAAAAAAAJ8/-x1_2ovriTM/s640/bezier%20nightstand.jpg

I plan to profile a leaf edge bead on both outside corners of the legs.
http://images.toolbarn.com/catalog/product/cache/6/small_image/135x135/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/i/m/image_14917.jpg

My question is how to mill this profile when referencing the curved face of the leg? If I install a router bit in my table, the distance between the bit and table changes along the length of the leg. If I use a handheld router, there is more potential for disaster than success, especially where the straight part of the leg transition to the curved part.

I know there are some hand tools options like the Stanely #66 beader and the LN copy:
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Improving%20the%2066%20Hand%20Beader_html_m78f2414 9.jpg
Can anyone comment on their ease of use and durability? Seems like i would have to re-hone the cutter profiles mid-job since I have a long distance of beading to do.

There is also a wooden version of a hand beader:
http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/planes/05p0401g1.jpg

Would the wooden fence give me adequate reference off the curved edge of the leg?

[Joe Scharle]

the distance between the bit and table changes

I'm sure this is clear in your mind, however I don't understand what you mean by that.
I have put a bead on the center of a table leg by running it across my router table prior to tapering the adjacent sides.

[Tyler Davis]

sorry that should read "between the bit and workpiece"

picture laying the contoured face of the leg down on the router table. As you push it across, the bit is fixed and the bead is not tracking to match the contours of the leg

[Joe Scharle]

If you get the fence out of the way, why won't the leg follow the bearing?

[Tyler Davis]

creating a corner beading requires two passes over the router bit. you're thinking of the first one- in which case the bearing does indeed give you a good reference. For the second pass, the table lag/workpiece is rotated 90-degrees along its axis. Now the contoured face of the leg is down on the router table top and there is no way for the beading profile to follow that countour

I wish I could sketch on a piece of paper- I could explain this in about 10 seconds!

[John Keeton]

Tyler, I understand what you are saying, and I think a scratch stock would work well for both sides. I have the Veritas wooden beading tool you spoke of in the original post, and I think you would get good registration on the concave face of the leg. The only part touching the surface is the round dowel in which the metal blade is affixed. You should be able to follow the curve easily enough on both surfaces. I can't speak for the LN tool as I have not used one. That tool comes with some blank blades you could configure to the profile you want.

In addition, there are several threads and other resources on making one's own scratch stock.

BTW, you may to come from two directions to avoid grain tearout.

[Doug Shepard]

I've got the LN beading tool and it works well but the profile you're going to do I doubt is in any of the hand bead cutters. A round bead yes. But I think you're going to have to make your own cutter to get that leaf bead profile.

[John Keeton]

Tyler, I had to do a double take on this one. In looking at the curve you have, the Veritas tool may not keep a consistent registration. You may be better off making a scratch stock, or going with the LN beading tool and making a cutter for it. Making a scratch stock would be my choice given the cost of the beading cutter for what may be a one time application.

Were one so inclined, you could round over the bearing surface of the Veritas handle, however, that could negatively affect using the tool on a straight cut. I think one could use it for straight runs, but it would certainly affect control of the tool.

[Tyler Davis]

well, I'm not so attached to the leaf profile; I could be persuaded to do a double round profile. The important thing is that it's on both faces of the corner.

John - the wooden handle seems dead simple for $54 - seems like something I could make out of scrap wood for free - or am I being naive? Glad you like the tool - how quickly do the cutters get dull? I have about 40 linear feet of cherry that I would need to scratch for these profiles. Is my beard going to be as gray as yours by the time I'm finished?

[John Keeton]

My experience is that scratching in a bead goes pretty quickly, and the tool stays sharp longer than one would expect. I honed mine on the face so as to not disturb the profile. May not be correct, but it worked.

Here (http://www.johnlloydfinefurniture.co.uk/files/p%2041-44%20FC%2092%E2%80%A6TECH%20lloyd%20JB.pdf) is a link to a really good article on building scratch stock.

BTW, this old white beard came not from age, but from a very high odometer reading!!:D