Fine-tuning skew sharpening technique

[Jamie Straw]

I used my Wolverine sharpening jig last night for the first time, really like it. But something's not quite right when I sharpen the skew, methinks. I'm grinding on that nice radius, getting a smooth bevel, but the bevel is longer on the long-point side than is it on the short-point side. I don't use their bevel jig, only the V-bracket included in the basic kit, rolling the tool and sliding back and forth across the grinder wheel.

Tried a couple different corrections when I saw what was happening, but couldn't seem to figure it out. Perhaps once that long bevel is started, there's no turning back? It cuts fine, so I don't know if that discrepancy makes any real difference.

Suggestions? Thanks for helping with these intro-level questions.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Jamie,

They make a special jig for sharpening a straight skew. It is basically a saddle that with 2 V's each offset equally from the middle.

What you need to do to sharpen a straight skew without that device is use the the basic tiltable table and just slide the skew back and forth across the table. Free hand it.

[Dan Forman]

I find sharpening curved skews a bit of a mystery as well, very hard to get them perfectly even. The good news is, it really doesn't matter in use.

If one bevel is longer, then theoretically you could make them even by grinding away on the short face until it matches the other, but often they still won't line up perfectly. But again in most cases it doesn't really make much difference.

Not sure what you mean when you say you use the "V bracket". I put the tilting platform in the base, and use that, guiding the tool by hand to accommodate the curve of the tool. If you are using same base as you would for a roughing gouge, I can see where that would cause problems. Just use the tilting platform and you'll be fine.

Dan

[Jamie Straw]

Jamie,

They make a special jig for sharpening a straight skew. It is basically a saddle that with 2 V's each offset equally from the middle.



Hi, Ken. I thought about getting the skew jig, but the guy at Woodcraft recommended not -- he teaches sharpening there, and doesn't really like it -- I guess it puts the tip of the skew too close to the top of the wheel, almost under the guard. As an aside, the darned thing looks like it'd be pretty easy to copy as a shop-made accessory.

The method I was using is what they show in the DVD that comes with the Wolverine jig -- they show how to grind basic tools, and show the skew both with only the Vee-Arm, and with the Skew Jig. Now that I've got the bevel angle set where I want it, I'll try touch-ups with just the platform, see how it works.

[Jamie Straw]

The good news is, it really doesn't matter in use.

Dan

That'd be nice. :) If I can do it with the platform, as you and Ken suggest, it's be good since I could then set up the Vee-Arm for the spindle gouge touch-ups.

Not planning to use these crutches forever, but I was going nuts trying to get these tools right when I had no idea what I was doing and was griinding the tools away to nothing!

[Ryan Baker]

+1 for just using the tilting platform and freehanding it. A skew is actually pretty easy to sharpen. I would avoid the Wolverine skew jig completely. As for the V arm, I don't see any way to sharpen a skew just with that. You simply can't get the tool to the right position if the handle is in the V (unless I am misreading what you are doing).

[Bob Hamilton]

I have the skew grinding jig. I think I used it once, maybe twice. Unless your wheel is wider than the cutting edge of your skew you will get a bevel that is wider at the heel than at the toe. I just use the platform like most of the others have suggested. It does a much better job in my opinion.

Take care
Bob

[Ron Bontz]

I no longer use the skew grinding jig either. I now just use the platform. I hae been looking at the veritas grinding jig. I think that would work ok.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Jamie,

I use the jig when grinding my 3/4" straight skew. It's quick, easy and repeatable. I have NOT experienced the problem Bob refers to. I am extremely picky about my skew and their sharpness. I hone with a diamond hone after sharpening and go for weeks without sharpening...just hone.

Since acquiring a couple Lacer skews, I have learned to free hand sharpen them because of the straight and radiused sections on them.

I would recommend the tilting table and freehand sharpening your skew. It will take a little time, practice and steel but it's not that hard.

Gouges, on the other hand, are a little trickier IMHO.

Good luck!

[Ken Garlock]

Those of you in the greater Chicago area have probably heard of Dick Sing. He has written several books on turning. Dick was also a regular on the now defunct Woodworking at Home Magazine.

Dick is a 99% skew user. He recommends doing a hollow grind on both sides of the skew followed by a diamond hone. He uses the little EZ-Lap diamond hone. It is exceeding easy to use, you just lay the hone on the cutting edge and the bridge it to the back of the hollow grind. You then have a repeatable two point rest for sharpening the skew. For future sharpenings, just touch up the skew with the diamond hone laid across the hollow grind bridge.

Just another idea. Take it or leave it.:)

[Jamie Straw]

Dick [Sing] is a 99% skew user. He recommends doing a hollow grind on both sides of the skew followed by a diamond hone. He uses the little EZ-Lap diamond hone....

Just another idea. Take it or leave it.:)

Now, Ken, you're not allowed to remind me that I've lost my little diamond paddle! :( Have looked for it the last two days in the shop, no idea where it scurried off to.

I like the idea of mostly using a hone to revive the skew, even if I have to buy a new one. Thanks to you and Ken for brining it up.