Best way to prevent end checking

[Will Brauneis]

Hey everyone,
I'm looking at cutting down a cherry tree in my yard and milling it into lumber. Its not very big probably about 10-12" and in diameter and the trunk is about 5' tall so i would like to try and prevent the boards from checking to try and get as much lumber as possible. Ive heard of several methods for doing this Anchorseal, paint, and paraffin. What do you guys use? what works best?

Thanks,
Will

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Will, I use the Lee Valley end sealer.............Regards, Rod.

[Cody Colston]

Every sawmill I've been around used Anchorseal. That's what I use, too.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Every operation I know uses Anchorseal. I don't know of any different formulations. The small amounts (gallons, quarts) sold in lumberyards and woodworking stores are I believe repackaged Anchorseal. I don't have it with me to check, but the last time I was in Rockler (Arlington, TX) about a couple months ago I had pretty much gone through everything and was just about to leave when I checked a gallon container on a table near the door. It was their name of wax sealer and I was able to get three gallons for about eight bucks a gallon, as I recall. I use it to coat log ends and just keep an old paint brush in a zip-loc bag that I use over and over.

[joe milana]

I was just commenting on how stable my last batch of maple was to the sawyer when he pointed to the end checking on the boards I had just picked out. He said a bit of end checking is good and acts as a "stress reliever". Fact or fiction?

[Cody Colston]

I was just commenting on how stable my last batch of maple was to the sawyer when he pointed to the end checking on the boards I had just picked out. He said a bit of end checking is good and acts as a "stress reliever". Fact or fiction?

Absolutely fiction.

[Scott T Smith]

Hey everyone,
I'm looking at cutting down a cherry tree in my yard and milling it into lumber. Its not very big probably about 10-12" and in diameter and the trunk is about 5' tall so i would like to try and prevent the boards from checking to try and get as much lumber as possible. Ive heard of several methods for doing this Anchorseal, paint, and paraffin. What do you guys use? what works best?

Thanks,
Will


Will, the best way to minimize degrade is to cut the log and apply end sealer on day 1, mill it on day 2, and get it into the kiln on day 3.

If you're not going to kiln dry the wood, then make arrrangements with a sawyer to mill the log for you, and negotiate a specific date for them to do the milling. Then, cut the log down and end coat it the day before milling, and sticker it the same day (or day after) it is milled.

This is presuming that you have a nice, straight tree w/o stresswood.

[Scott T Smith]

I was just commenting on how stable my last batch of maple was to the sawyer when he pointed to the end checking on the boards I had just picked out. He said a bit of end checking is good and acts as a "stress reliever". Fact or fiction?


Hogwash - that is fiction.

[Will Brauneis]

OK thanks for the info guys ill probably go run down to the rockler store and get some end grain sealer then.

I'm planning on just milling it up on my band saw and air drying it to save the cash it would take to go get it sawn and dried, about 60-70$ not really worth it for the 20ish bfd in the tree. The tree has some issues, it has a good sized burl on it probably form taking a hit from a lawnmower and the trunk has a few deformities overall a pretty unhealthy looking tree. It will be interesting to see what comes out of it so fingers crossed the wood isn't too stressed and warps or cracks badly.

[Frank Drew]

Checking is stress relief for the log or board but it's not a good thing, so your guy was half right (the wrong half as far as you're concerned, though.)

Cutting the log in half lengthwise through the middle (through the pith), in addition to sealing the end grain, can greatly help reduce degrade, as can stacking and stickering it out of the direct sunlight.