Biscuits and thin stock...

[Pat Monahan]

Greetings Everyone

I was wondering if anyone has used biscuits in half-inch red oak. I need to build a tub surround for a basement bathroom. I was planning on making three access panels, each measuring approximately 20" high by 34"wide. The panels would be rail and stile with the half-inch oak as the "raised panel". Is regular carpenter's glue sufficient, or should I use something else, given humidity problems? Finally, would oil based polyurethane be okay, or should I use something like a marine varnish? Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Much
Pat

[Todd Burch]

Hi Pat. Welcome to SMC.

I have used biscuits in 1/2" thick material. Even thinner actually (mini biscuits).

For a panel, there's really no need to use a biscuit, unless the wood is warped and it will help you align things during the glue-up and clamping processes.

Yes, regular carpenter's glue is sufficient. If it was a sauna, I would suggest something else.

Oil based poly is overkill, but will work fine.

(As an aside, you get to hear my philosophy on polyurethane!!

Polyurethane was developed to be tough. Not to be easy to apply. Definately not for good looks. It is one of the most durable finishes we have available, and I feel it is way overused. It is also not repairable.

So, in a nutshell, there you have it!!)

Todd

[Jim Becker]

Biscuits are not necessary to glue up the panel...the glue will do just fine with proper clamping, although mini biscuits can help initially with alignment. But cauls can do the same thing without the time and effort necessary to deal with the biscuits. Using a type II (or the new type III) PVA glues ("carpenters' glues")would also provide moisture resistance for the joints in this environment.

[Betsy Yocum]

Hi Pat. Welcome to SMC.

I have used biscuits in 1/2" thick material. Even thinner actually (mini biscuits).

For a panel, there's really no need to use a biscuit, unless the wood is warped and it will help you align things during the glue-up and clamping processes.

Yes, regular carpenter's glue is sufficient. If it was a sauna, I would suggest something else.

Oil based poly is overkill, but will work fine.

(As an aside, you get to hear my philosophy on polyurethane!!

Polyurethane was developed to be tough. Not to be easy to apply. Definately not for good looks. It is one of the most durable finishes we have available, and I feel it is way overused. It is also not repairable.

So, in a nutshell, there you have it!!)

Todd
Isn't polyurethane just liquid plastic that yellows over time? Or am I wrong? Personally, I don't like the stuff.

[Jim Becker]

Isn't polyurethane just liquid plastic that yellows over time? Or am I wrong? Personally, I don't like the stuff.
No, Polyurethane, in the context of varnish, is made from one of the three general types of resins. (Urethane) The others are alkyd and phenolic. There are some polyurethane varnishes today that are a lot closer in look to the alkyd products and they don't have quite that "plastic" look. That said, I also don't like to use poly and only employ it when abrasion resistance is a key need on a project. Poly is also softer than the other two types...so if you want to rub out your varnish, it isn't the best choice. Unfortunately, the retail market is saturated with poly and that tends to make many folks think it's the best thing for everything...and it's not. Just another reason to buy finishes from places other than the big boxes!!

Good alternative products include Sherwin Williams Fast Dry Varnish and Pratt & Lambert #38. The latter is based on Soya oils and doesn't have quite the yellow cast that varnishes based on BLO and other similar oils do.

Personally, I stick with water bourne acrylic lacquer (sprayed) when I need a durable clear coat and shellac where it is appropriate.

[Pat Monahan]

Thanks for all the info and kind words :D . Alright! Got the smiley thing goin' too! Now if I could just convince Wifey to buy me tools... :D