New tablesaw and set up

[Richard Andersen]

New tablesaw is on the way. This will be my first tablesaw so what will I need for set-up, checking or making adjustments? What are some recommendations for a good precision straight edge, precision square and something to check for 45 deg accuracy. Is that A-Line-it tool or a dial indicator with magnetic base an essential tool for getting things set up and dialed in accurate?

[Harlan Coverdale]

Congrats on the new saw. What did you order?

The A-Line-It and similar tools are very handy for aligning the trunnions and fence. I've also seen pics of similar shopmade devices here on SMC I think.

A precision straight edge is useful in the shop, but you can set up your tablesaw without one IMHO. A couple thousandths of variation in flatness across the top of a tablesaw isn't going to make a lot of difference unless you're trying to build to machinist tolerances. Others may disagree, but for setting the extension tables or checking for gross flatness errors, I think a regular old 4' level is usually all that's really necessary.

A 10" or so 45º plastic drafting triangle is my go-to tool for checking 90º and 45º blade angles. I don't trust or use the markings on the saw for setting the blade angle, so I use the triangle to reset things back to 90º every time I change the blade angle. I use a Beall Tilt Box for anything other than 90º and 45º, but I still use the drafting triangle as my 'true' reference.

[Larry Rasmussen]

I have a new tablesaw I am setting up. I have a 3' straight edge from Lee Valley tools, actually I think 38" and a machinist square and 45 degree tool from Grizzley, inexpensive. I do not think that a lot of the moderate variations from level measured in thousands people post about here would affect my work at all so am mainly checking for an unexpected pot hole or bump on the cast iron surface and that can be readily checked with a generic staight edge. I'm more concerned with the blade angle but most of us have a decent square on hand.

I do have the Woodpecker Saw Gauge on the top of my Christmas list. You can check it out here- http://www.woodpeck.com/sawgauge.html at $80 it is priced consistently with similiar products and I just got an email ad from Woodpecker for 10% off any of their brand products and free shipping. I'm certain it will make alignment of blade to miter slot to rip fence a snap compared to setting up with a tape measure. There is a video at the link above that I found interesting.

Luck,
Larry R,
Seattle

[keith ouellette]

I bought a cheap dial indicator from harbor freight tools and attached it to a piece of miter bar so it would fit in my miter slot. I was given the instructions by someone on the creek. There around here someplace.

I adjusted my table so the miter slot was parallel with the saw and then did my fence to the miter slot. It was out by .009 (if I remember correctly). A small number but it made a really big difference in my cuts.

now if I do have to stop pushing the work piece through, for what ever reason. It doesn't leave a mark. Before the adjustment burn marks were constant no matter how I pushed the work through.

[Bill Huber]

Everyone as given some great advice, here is what I use.

I have a Super Bar and Master Plate, as Keith stated you can get a cheap dial indicator from Harbor Freight and make a mount for it but the Master Plate is different. With the Master Plate you don't have to worry about a wrapped blade, its flat.

Next I would get a good straight edge, the one from Lee Valley is great, I have the steel one, its heavy and doesn't move when you are putting the feeler gauge under it.

While you are at Harbor Freight get 2 of the cheap feeler gauge sets, they make great shims for the extension wings plus you will need them to check under the straight edge when setting the wings.

You will also want to get a good drafting triangle 45/90, I have a 16 inch Alvin that is fluorescent that I really like. This will be for setting your miter guide.

Now when you look at all the different setup tools on the net they generally show you putting the dial indicator on the right side of the blade. I don't understand why they do that. The dial indicator should be place in the miter slot that you will be using for your miter guide. In my case I always use the left miter slot so this is where I put the indicator, from what I have seen very few people use the right miter slot.

Now that you have all the tools start with getting the wings flat with the table. Take your time and do it right the first time, you will be glad you did in the future.

Now the hardest one is setting the blade to the the miter slot. If you have a contractor saw a set of Pals are really nice to have and will save you a lot of time. Again do it right the first time. I always get it set then walk away and come back and check it again just to make sure I have it right.

Then using the same miter slot set your fence with the dial indicator. Again take your time and get it right to start with.

Then set the miter guide.

A lot of people state that you are working with wood and a few thousands here is no big deal. My take on it is if you have a few thousands here and a few thousands there and a few thousands someplace else they all add up and then you can be off a bunch of thousands.

So take your time and do it right the first time, it will save you a lot of time in the future.

This is just my 2 cents and I am just a hobbyist .... Have fun and enjoy the saw.

[glenn bradley]

The A-Line-It and similar tools are very handy for aligning the trunnions and fence. I've also seen pics of similar shopmade devices here on SMC I think.

Here you go: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=117955&d=1241992924

Although the pics here (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=111878) show me using the miter slot to the right of the blade, that is just for the pics. I use the left slot for the reasons Bill H. states and recommend that when talking with folks.

I run the Lee Valley steel 36" straight edge and appreciate the weight so I can adjust with one hand and use my feelers with the other without the straight edge going for a walk as lighter ones may be prone to do. The longer LV aluminum straight edge has some heft to it and folks here seem to like that one as well.

Folks that claim their builders level works just fine should keep on doing that. I was after something a little farther up the trough. The discussion of what tolerances matter in woodworking is often debated. We all know wood moves throughout the day. That is why I like my tools as close as possible. If I am framing a house, an 1/8" is not too much a a deal breaker. If I am piston-fitting a small drawer on a vanity, .015" is a significant adjustment.

You don't mention the saw you are getting. This would make recommendations and tips more specific. Different trunnion styles and table assemblies require different adjustments. BTW, congrats and have fun.

[Richard Andersen]

Thanks for the replies, keep the suggestions coming. The saw is a PM 2000, should be arriving next week.

I saw a Black Friday add selling the A-Line-It (basic) for $40. Would this or the deluxe version be a good item or should I look into another brand? How about the straight edge and machinist square set from Rockler, prices seem fairly inexpensive..or is this an area of tools where you get what you pay for?

I want to get what ever I need to do this right the first time, but not end up purchasing a bunch of expensive stuff for a one time use.

[Joe Adams]

I would highly recommend buying Kelly Mehler's excellent book and DVD on setting up and using your table saw. www.kellymehler.com/newsite/woodshop.htm

[Tom Adger]

I have a Wixey angle gauge and 8" protractor. I use them a lot, and have found them to be very accurate.

After you get the blade set up, don't forget the fence. Take the new straight edge you get and check the face for flatness. I found a bow in the main aluminum extrusion on mine. Ridgid sent me a new one no charge. Make sure it is 90 degrees to the table, and check parallel to the miter slot just like you do with the blade.

[glenn bradley]

How about the straight edge and machinist square set from Rockler, prices seem fairly inexpensive..or is this an area of tools where you get what you pay for?

At the price of the Rockler (item 30449), although it may be fine, I'd get the 36" (item 05N62.03) from Lee Valley for less. The Rockler states it is accurate within .0011" but does not state over what span. If it is .0011" per inch you could be off quite a bit over the 24" length. The Lee Valley states it is accurate within .0015" over the entire 36" span. So, even if the quality is equal, the LV is longer and a couple dollars less. JMHO.

[glenn bradley]

How about the straight edge and machinist square set from Rockler, prices seem fairly inexpensive..or is this an area of tools where you get what you pay for?

At the price of the Rockler (item 30449), although it may be fine, I'd get the 36" (item 05N62.03) from Lee Valley for less. The Rockler states it is accurate within .0011" but does not state over what span. If it is .0011" per inch you could be off quite a bit over the 24" length. The Lee Valley states it is accurate within .0015" over the entire 36" span. So, even if the quality is equal, the LV is longer and a couple dollars less. JMHO.

P.s. There are some very thorough discussions on aligning cabinet mounted trunnion saws here at SMC. Remember that once you are happy with your blade at 90*, take the time before assembly to align it at 45*. I didn't do this and the first time I went to do a beveled cut, I had sub-optimal performance ;-) I recently tore my saw down during a shop re-org but, made sure I resolved this before it went back together.

[Richard Andersen]

I would highly recommend buying Kelly Mehler's excellent book and DVD on setting up and using your table saw. www.kellymehler.com/newsite/woodshop.htm (http://www.kellymehler.com/newsite/woodshop.htm)

Thanks for suggestion. I was considering the Complete Illustraged Guide to tablesaws book from Tauntons, but do not know if that would be a good reference book. Are the DVD's from Kelly Mechler good or would a book be better?

I was also considering taking a woodworking class, see Woodcraft offers some, to brush up and re-learn tablesaw saftey. It has been a little over 20yrs since my high school shop classes.

[scott spencer]

It's worth being fussy about the blade to miter slot, and fence to miter slot alignment, but you don't necessarily need expensive fancy gauges to do that. A simple combo square and a feeler gauge can get you surprisingly close, as can a piece of wood with a screw in the end mounted 90° to the miter slot...just adjust the screw so that it just ticks the front tooth...move the same tooth and the screw device to the back and see if the tooth stick ticks the screw head.

Be sure the fence is straight as well as aligned. It's not overly common, but the fence can be bowed from the factory and is worth a check.

A good rigid zero clearance insert is worth pursuing too...you'll not only get less splintering and less flexing, but it's also safer than having a large gap. Phenolic is my material of choice, but there are other good choices.

Be sure to get a good blade or blades....the end performance of any saw is largely determined by the setup and the blade selection. The philosophies about which direction to head range from using task specific blades that will perform very well in a narrow operating range, to more of a "do-all" general purpose blade that will give good results in most applications but excel at none. Both philosophies have merit depending on the situation, your preference, budget, and cutting objectives. A decent purebred 60-80 tooth crosscut blade will certainly make cleaner crosscuts than a 30, 40 or 50 tooth general purpose blade of comparable quality. Inversely, a 24 tooth bulk ripper will certainly be more efficient at ripping thick material than the general purpose (GP) style blade. The key to being “better” depends on how you define that term. Better performance characteristics in one aspect of cutting doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a better choice overall. Consider both sides of the equation before making a decision. Taking the approach of using task specific blades requires owning at least two blades that each excel in a limited operating region, and are typically unacceptable for tasks outside of their intended scope. They also require blade changes for each different task for optimum results. Two task-specific blades (typically a 24T ripper and an 80T crosscutter) will generally stay sharp longer than a single general purpose blade because they share the work load, but cost more upfront and will also cost more to re-sharpen when the time comes. A general purpose blade will neither rip as efficiently as a true rip blade nor crosscut as cleanly as a dedicated crosscut blade, but you may find that it’s more than acceptable at doing both tasks for most situations. A valid argument in favor of using one high quality general purpose blade is that the GP blade leaves a cleaner edge than the rip blade, crosscuts faster than a crosscut blade, and does so with the convenience and cost of using one blade. If you happen to do a lot of specialty cutting of fine veneered plywoods, veneers, melamine, MDF, plastics, etc., a blade made specifically for these materials is definitely recommended. If you tend to rip very thick dense materials regularly, then a dedicated ripping blade is a wise choice for you right from the start.

[Bruce Wrenn]

The A-Line it from Peachtree at $40 is a good deal , but with a HF dial indicator, and some scraps, you can make your own for less than $10