Will pine work?

[Kenneth Whiting]

I am anxious to get outside and turn something. I want to start by putting a handle on my new Thompson Bowl Gouge. Being that it's Thanksgiving and no one is open, all I have available is some pine. Will it work for a handle? If I'm not happy with it after it's been epoxied in place will I be able to change it later?

[John Keeton]

Bo, I certainly am not qualified to answer your question, since my tenure in the round world is about a month longer than yours!:D

But, I would hesitate using pine for a couple of reasons, the primary being strength, and the other being finish. I would think getting a nice, smooth and durable finish on pine might be difficult. Seems it would ding and get splinters.

But, most importantly, I would be afraid of the sucker breaking out on me. As far as getting it out after epoxy - I doubt it. You could probably break the pine away from the tang with difficulty, and getting the epoxy off the metal would be a PITA.

Did you download the .pdf file on Doug's site on making a handle? I think they suggest hardwood.

Since I see a couple of Doug's tools in my future, I am very interested in how this project goes for you. Be sure and post the pics!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Kenneth don't get in a hurry. Get you some nice hardwood such as walnut, maple, cherry, etc. and turn you a handle. I turned one out of pine about 4 yrs ago and it broke in my hand while turning. Not worth the effort IMHO.

[Kenneth Whiting]

Don't you just hate it when people confirm your worries.

[John Keeton]

And, it always happens when the stores are closed!! But, tomorrow is Black Friday and you can go out and join the throngs of crazed shoppers, and fight your way to a wood dealer somewhere!!:D I would start about 5 am so you can "be amongst 'em" when they come out of the starting gate!

[Kenneth Whiting]

I planned on being at Rockler first thing in the morning to take advantage of that lathe sale, then use the $100 gift card to pick up some wood and a pen starting kit for the LOML. Then my boss told me I have to be at work at 0530 until at least noon. Can you feel my frustration?

[Richard Madison]

Kenneth, If it were me and I had a close-grained piece of pine, I would try it despite the naysayers. If your Thompson is a 1/2" there is a good chance it will be a tight fit in a 1/2" hole without epoxy. Mine was. Start with a 1/2" forstner about 3/4" deep and then finish with a 1/2" brad point about 1/2" deeper than the length of the shank. Make a press fit ferrule, install, and last install the tool in handle. Not saying it will work for sure, just saying I would try it anyway.

If your pine is a wide-grain piece from near the center of the tree, not worth the effort. Good luck.

[John Keeton]

... despite the naysayers.Richard, I had all in inlaws over today - "naysayer" is probably the nicest thing anyone has said about me today!!:D;)

Close grain pine might work, and some SYP might work even better if you have any of that around. It probably has a bit more strength.

[Ron McKinley]

Rather than pine glue up some scrap pieces of hardwood plywood and use that. If later you don't like that and want to use a piece of maple, ash, oak or watever then just heat the tool near the ferrule and it will melt the expoxy and you can easily remove the tool........Ron

[Kenneth Whiting]

I feel your pain John. Today was all in-laws for me too. :(

Since it's so late now I will just wait until I have time to go get something I will still like looking at in a few years.

[Jeff Nicol]

If the pine you are going to use is from a 2x4 or something, it is most likely one of the harder "Pine" or Spruce, hemlock, yellow pine or one of the fir trees that are used for 2x4's. If it were a piece of white pine I would say no, but any of the others have plenty of strength for a handle. Like already said a press fit ferule of copper, brass or steel pipe is really the strong point of the handle. With the pine the weight of the handle will be much less than a dense hardwood. I have made a lot of them out of soft maple, which is not much harder than the woods I mentioned above. They have held up just fine, but the lack of weight is the problem so some lead shot gets added to the but of the handle.

Good luck,

Jeff

[Sean Hughto]

Do you have any dry hardwood on the firewood pile?

[Steve Mawson]

If it were me which it is not of course I would not waste my time with pine. Part of the joy in making a handle is that you like a tool that looks nice and also handles nice. Just my opinion that pine will not make a handle you are proud of. Any of the hardwoods will look so much nicer. My first one was walnut and maple laminated. Good luck on whatever you decide.

[Kenneth Whiting]

I don't even have a firewood pile.:)

[Richard Madison]

John, That's funny (sort of). Should have specified when I say "pine" I mean kiln dried SYP construction lumber. Certainly not all pine is created equal. Just wanted to help Kenneth get started using his new Thompson gouge.

Jeff, Thanks for your support.

[Jeff Nicol]

John, That's funny (sort of). Should have specified when I say "pine" I mean kiln dried SYP construction lumber. Certainly not all pine is created equal. Just wanted to help Kenneth get started using his new Thompson gouge.

Jeff, Thanks for your support.
Richard, No problem with the support, everything is relevent to what is available and ready to be worked at the time. A handle for a hammer would not last long and the forces applied to the pine would fracture pretty fast! But if the tool is used correctly and addressing the wood with out any large over hang, a piece of southern yellow pine or red pine, Douglas fir or spruce would hold up as long as any hardwood. Why do you think the houses made in the 1860's - 1900, made mosty of pine are still standing? Because it works for many things.

Also if the hole is tight enough in the handle there should be no need for epoxy. I have never epoxied a shaft and have not lost one yet, so the practice achieved through turning a "Pine" (used to cover all conifer trees) would be good no matter what. Function is first and asthetics are second in my world! If it looks great but performs terribly what have you gained?

Thoughts from the frugal one,

Jeff

[Kenneth Whiting]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. Since I didn't get around to it yesterday I am going to go down to the LOWESt price store this afternoon or tomorrow morning and get a red oak turning blank, and a brass fairing nut. At that store I am limited to red oak or poplar turning blanks, but Woodcraft and Rockler are too far away to make it worth picking up 1 item, and I don't know of any good woodworking stores on the eastside of Houston.

[Wayne Kuhn]

Go ahead and use the pine as a prototype. When you are happy with your design, go for the hardwood.

[Richard Madison]

For a lifetime supply of ferrule material, buy a joint of 3/4" EMT metal conduit. And maybe some gold paint if it just has to look like brass. Many of my tools, jigs, and fixtures are home made and funky looking but work very well. For me it is the appearance of the finished work that matters most.