T9 Boeshield?

[keith micinski]

So, I finally came across some of this at Sears and thought what the heck everyone raves about it on the message board so it must be good right? What the hell are you guys thinking? Now I have a big table top all gummed up and not even remotely smooth. I have been using floor wax and it not only protected, it made for a really smooth finish. I don't think I could slide a board across my saw if I wanted to. Did I get a bad can or is there some advantage to having your table top almost be "sticky" that I am not aware of?

[Jacob Mac]

You didn't get a bad can. It leaves a tacky finish unless you wipe it off. Personally, I prefer using furniture wax for my tools. But it is good for bike chains.

[Gary Breckenridge]

Did you remove the floor wax from the top of the table saw ?:cool:

[Lorne Steed]

Keith;
My experience with T9 is that it is fantastic and works better than its rated. However, the trick is that you spray it on (not too heavy and not too much!) and WIPE IT OFF right away. Thats it. If you follow directions on the can you will have way too much on the surface and then you are right - it won't be slippery at all. Just spray a bit and wipe it totally in and then off with a clean rag.
Lorne Steed

P.S. I live in the rainforest on Vancouver Island where it is humid all year long and one application per entire year protects my tablesaw and bandsaw.

[keith micinski]

Well, I did spray a thick coat on and let it sit for about 10 minutes so maybe I will wipe it down again and start over.

[glenn bradley]

There are many fans out there. I'm not one but I respect their preferences. I too find that it causes too much drag, immediately buffed off or not. Maybe its the weather in my area. Maybe I've used Johnson's Paste Wax so long I'm just used to it and the T-9 is just different. I am slowly using up my can by using it on my saw blades after cleaning. I don't have any real use for it :confused:.

P.s. I think their Rust Free product rocks and there are folks out there who have no real use for it. We're all different.

[Denny Rice]

Keith,

I am in total agreement with you, I think T-9 sucks! I purchased a can a couple of years ago and had the same results you did. I threw the rest of the can in the trash. Penetrating oil to remove the heavy rust, followed by 409, followed by 2 coats of Johnson's Paste Wax......It doesn't get any better. IMHO:)

[Walt Caza]

Hi Keith,
I agree. I will not purchase another can of T9.
Like Glenn, trying to find uses for it until it's gone.
I had better luck with T9 to prevent rust, and then Topcote
on top to make it slippery for a good feed action.
The combo is too spendy, and did not work as well for me as pastewax.
My ole rust thread:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=71406

The Johnson's pw always gets raves, but I could not get my hands on any in Canada.

Although the Minwax people would not confirm for me that their pastewax
contains zero silicon (sp?), I am having better results with it.
As you know, silicon(e) interferes with good wood finishing.

I too never understood the rave reviews and T9 boosters.
Perhaps my center of the Great Lakes location tends to be too humid?
It worked poorly for me, and I'd gladly take 50 cents on the dollar for my can.

Here is another Creek thread on T9:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=18199&highlight=Boeshield+Topcote

Boy, my groggy 6am spelling is dodgey at best...
YMMV
Walt

[Anthony Whitesell]

I agree that there's probably something better than T9. But I don't have any rust on my tools, so I can't complain too much. I usually apply it decent amount of T9 and let sit until the next time I'm going to use the tool. I then buff off the extra with an old Tshirt and coat with paste wax. The best of both worlds, I guess. T9 would probably be great if you putting the tools in storage, but for regular maintenance it's not so great.

[Cliff Holmes]

The Johnson's pw always gets raves, but I could not get my hands on any in Canada.

I get mine from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Fine-Wood-Paste-Wax-1lb/dp/B0000DIWIM/)

[Cary Falk]

I also hate the stickyness of T9. It is lessened if you immediately wipe it off as stated earlier. It does a great job with keeping the rust off though.

[Mike Black Milford, MI]

I leave it on for 24 hours, then wipe off the tacky remains. I then apply and buff paste wax. Call me silly, but this proceedure was a video recommendation by that Spags guy who whispers to or with wood.
I really started using T-9 about 8 years ago when I brought home my father's band saw. A water line to my mom's refridgerator broke and it rained into the basement workshop. It rained in the basement for 4 to 7 days and the bandsaw took the brunt of the water. I asked around about how to unrust the cast iron table and started with an hour soak of T-9. Then I sprayed on some more and worked off the rust with various grits of synthetic sanding blocks and steel wool and lots a paper towels. The saw table cleaned up really really well and hasn't shown any return of rust since.

[John Harden]

Following directions is a good thing. Nothing beats Boeshield to protect against moisture. Read the Wood magazine article for the details. Good review. I have three cans of the stuff scattered around the garage.

Spray on a light coat and wipe it off. Simple.

The surface finish will NOT be as slippery as if you'd applied a coat of wax as this is not what Boeshield is designed to do. It was never designed to lower friction like a thick paste was. Two very different things.

Its pretty dry here, so we don't have much problem with rust. I still use Boeshield on my motorcycle, car, truck, hand planes, table saw, jointer/planer, etc.

Works great.

If you want a low friction surface, not much out there will beat paste wax. Planer beds come to mind as a good candidate as paste wax will help the feed rollers pull the boards across the table.

Want both? Put on a light coat of Boeshield, wipe it off well, let it dry, then put on your past wax.

Where Boeshield really shines is as an anti-corrosive, particularly on aluminum, chrome and steel surfaces exposed to the weather. I use quite a lot of it on my motorcycle. It works well to clean the wheels and spokes too!!

Regards,

John

[Michael Schwartz]

I usually use Topcoat, spray it on once, let it dry, spray on a second coat and buff quickly.

During the summer I use paste wax on-top of that since my shop is 50' away from a river, and not climate controlled in any way.

Probaby going to start using a coat of boeshield as well before I spray with the topcoat and wax.

[Conrad Fiore]

Ask anbody with a saltwater boat about T9 and you will get the response that there is nothing on the planet that works better than T9 for its anti-corrosion properties. It was really made to be sprayed on and left as is so that it would leave a film that you pretty much can't wash off and offers a barrier coat that can't be beat. That said, I use T9 on my outboards and all metal surfaces and electrical connections on my boat and I use paste was for my cast iron tables.

[Peter Aeschliman]

I just learned my lesson with T9. I haven't been using it on my cast iron table surfaces, but rather for lubricating moving parts. Since it pretty much dries, I figured it would be good for parts such as the posts that my planer bed glides.

It worked great for lubricating parts like that for a month or so. After that, it gummed up and made things worse than before... especially on tools I don't use that often like my Delta mortiser.

I cleaned up the gummy mess with some mineral spirits. I'll be sticking to WD-40 for lubricating moving parts from now on.

My regimin for cleaning my tables (if they do get rust) is spraying some WD-40 on the surface and scrubbing with an abrasive pad. Once the rust is gone, I use a rag with mineral spirits to remove the oil and rust slurry. Then I go over it with Slip It sliding compound. It creates a VERY slick surface. I love it.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Slip-It-Sil-Free-Sliding-Compound-Gel-1-qt-/G5562

[Karl Brogger]

I've never used Boeshield
J&J paste wax doesn't seem to stay slippery long enough. Although it is really slick right off the bat.
Topcoat is OK
Zep has a product call Zepalon. A teflon spray, works pretty good. I've never seen it for sale anywhere other than from a Zep dealer.
My latest thing has been using just straight paraffin wax. Rub it on, take rag and get the majority of it off, and to hit the spots I missed rubbing it on with the bar of wax. Buff it out with #0000 steel wool, then hit it again with a rag. Its impressively slippery and last quite a while.

[Philip Johnson]

I don't use boeshield JJ paste wax seems to work fine for me. But one day I was looking up something in the boeing maintenance manual and they call for some products by mi spec, boeshield and lps 3 have the same mil spec and as far as boeing is concerned they are interchangable. We use lps 3 for preventing corrisoion in some areas on airplanes, never seen a can of boeshield at the airline. So makes me wonder if boeshield is just high priced lps3. Does anyone that uses boeshield find it simalar to lps3?

Phil