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JohnT Fitzgerald
11-25-2009, 4:07 PM
I spent some time last week making a planer sled for my DW735, like the plan from FWW. I do not have a jointer, and I want to be able to mill from rough stock.

I used a 12"x6' piece of melamine shelving for the bottom, attached some frame pieces and then a top of 3/4" plywood to keep it all rigid (torsion box approach). I used our granite countertop as a reference flat surface. I made the 1"x1" cross pieces, on which the board rests; and then made the 15deg wedge system to lift up the cross pieces. I have pics I'll post later. It looked good, complete with a bungee cord to hold the cross pieces down. I was feeling pretty good.

I started to run some 4/4 maple through it, and the first few pieces went through very nicely. I quickly got the knack for adjusting the wedges. One piece 'slipped' forward as it went through, so I decided to mount a cleat on the front of the sled, so the planer rollers would push the board along, but the board would push the cleat and the sled along. Taking rough hard maple to a beautiful flat surface......Again - I was feeling pretty good.

Then - I'm not sure what happened. The sled was not sliding through easily, and I was getting very very bad snipe. Once or twice a screw (used to hold the wedges secure) fell off and onto the floor, so I had to readjust that particular wedge....in retrospect, I think this is what happened: a screw maybe - somehow - got jammed under the sled and dug a nice gouge onto the planer bed. Not noticing it though, I kept using it.

Unfortunately, the gouge in the bed also left a nice burr on the planer bed, which scraped and scraped the melamine off the bottom of the sled. So more and more, because of the burr scraping as well as the rough surface left on the melamine, more resistance was encountered until the sled would not go through on its own. Of course, a result of this was that as infeed roller pushed against the board and when the board just completed under the infeed roller, there was so much resistance that the infeed roller basically lifted up the trailing part of the board into the cutter. The snipe was horrendous, and it took me a few test pieces to finally figure out what was going wrong. That's when I noticed the scraped melamine and, on closer inspection, the scraped and scratched planer bed.

I was so disappointed and aggravated that I just that I just left it there, turned off the lights and went to bed.

Lessons learned...

when something seems wrong, there usually is. I should have checked the bottom of the sled and the planer bed more thoroughly when things started to go wrong.
The wedge system looks good in principal, but in reality is not that reliable (at least for me).
I don't need a 12" wide x 72" long sled to plane 4" x 36" pieces.
Loose drywall screws in a lunchbox planer are NOT a good thing. Thankfully, one did not get sucked up through the blades.

my plans:

laminate some formica to the bottom of the sled, to get a sturdier surface and to 'repair' where the melamine got scraped off.
use the advice I saw here on another thread, and build an 'insert' - probably also topped with laminate - to put on the planer bed, on top of which the sled will ride. I don't want to beat the crap out of my planer bed anymore with a heavy sled, and this insert will be replaceable
Ditch the "wedge" system. The crosspieces seem to work well otherwise, so I came up with the following:

I bored a 1/2" diam. recess in the bottom of the crosspieces near the ends, just deep enough to hold a nut, and then drilled a 1/4" hole through to the top to hold a set screw.
I epoxied a nut in the bottom, and a 1" 1/4-20 set screw will now be my adjustment mechanism. When I adjust the set screw from above, it will extend through the nut onto the bed of the sled, lifting the cross piece. I like that the parts are fully captured, unlike the drywall screws in the 'wedge' design.

I'm going to make a similar but smaller sled, for when I have smaller pieces. I do not have any rough stock wider than 6" or 7", so I'll size according to that. I'll use the larger planer for when i have wider boards.
I made the new set-screw system last night, and I hope to get to the laminate work tonight or over the weekend. I have pictures of the sled from when I first built it, of the scraped bottom, and of my revised elevation system. I'll post later when I get home.

Anthony Whitesell
11-25-2009, 4:20 PM
For my planer sled, I used 3/4" MDF with two 1/2" thick 2" wide MDF runners. Through out the surface of the sled I drilled and placed an array of threaded inserts. From the bottom, I thread 1/4-20x1" nylon bolts. These nylon bolts are instead of the wedges. With either method, the very back edge of the work piece needs to be supported. Right at 0" not 1 or 2" in, right at the back edge or you well get really bad snipe. If the bolt falls out the planer won't even (I hope) notice the nylon versus the wood (versus a metal screw). The runners are there to provide a space for the bolt heads and reduce drag on the planer bed.

Then I got an actual jointer...but it looks good sitting there in the corner.

Stephen Stark
11-25-2009, 4:45 PM
How about using hot melt glue to hold the workpiece in place? It would remove the rock on all but severely warped pieces and would pop easily with a chisel when done. Any merit to the idea?

JohnT Fitzgerald
11-25-2009, 4:48 PM
How about using hot melt glue to hold the workpiece in place? It would remove the rock on all but severely warped pieces and would pop easily with a chisel when done. Any merit to the idea?

Stephen - hot melt glue is next in my arsenal. I had hoped not to, just for simplicity-sake when milling multiple pieces, but if I must then I must.

I'm encouraged (a little) by the initial pieces I ran through - they really did adjust easily, and came out really nice.

Mike Henderson
11-25-2009, 5:02 PM
I find it much easier to work one surface flat with hand tools, then put the wood through the planer with that side down. Doesn't take very long and avoids all the jig stuff.

Mike

Stephen Stark
11-25-2009, 5:14 PM
You are probably right, but in this world of power tools this and battery that, there are more of us (than would like to admit) who don't know the proper use, or the pleasure of hand tools.:p

JohnT Fitzgerald
11-25-2009, 5:17 PM
You are probably right, but in this world of power tools this and battery that, there are more of us (than would like to admit) who don't know the proper use, or the pleasure of hand tools.:p

I agree.

I would like to get to that point of using hand tools - some time in the future. My focus is on building other skills right now.

Mike Henderson
11-25-2009, 5:56 PM
You are probably right, but in this world of power tools this and battery that, there are more of us (than would like to admit) who don't know the proper use, or the pleasure of hand tools.:p
I don't know if flattening a board can be called pleasure, but I don't try to get that face smooth, just flat. After running the board through the planer with the "flat" side down enough times that the whole surface is planed, I turn the board over and run it with the hand tools side up to get all the marks out.

Unless your board is really bad, it doesn't take much time. I often use a #3 plane and a straightedge to flatten the board. Unless the board is really long, I test for twist by putting it face down on my table saw. If it has twist, I mark the high points and focus on those. A #5 plane can also be used.

If you try it, you'll find it's really easy and quick. And it's good exercise.

Mike

[Let me just add that I'm not trying to convince anyone to go neander. It's just a pragmatic way to deal with flattening stock for those of us who don't have a jointer (I don't have room in my shop for a jointer).]

Steve Rozmiarek
11-25-2009, 6:35 PM
John, I have to ask, do you think that the fiddling around with the planer sled is a better approach then just buying a budget jointer? Especially if the stock is 4"x36"?

Not sure what a 6" Griz goes for now, but it's not that much IIRK.

JohnT Fitzgerald
11-25-2009, 8:09 PM
John, I have to ask, do you think that the fiddling around with the planer sled is a better approach then just buying a budget jointer? Especially if the stock is 4"x36"?

Not sure what a 6" Griz goes for now, but it's not that much IIRK.

Very good question. It's definitely on my mind, but lack of shop space at the moment prevents me from getting a 'good' jointer. and my piggy bank is set right now on a TS upgrade. I have the planer, so I thought I'd give it a shot.

Mike Heidrick
11-25-2009, 8:31 PM
I think a Jet benchtop jointer is also cheap. How much rough cut wood do you use? May pay for itself pretty quickly.

Rob Holcomb
11-26-2009, 7:29 PM
I too built a planer sled like the one in FWW but I don't have a lunchbox planer. Mine is stationary and the bed moves up and down rather than the cutter head. After each pass through the planer, I would have to adjust the roller stands I used, then check the wedges and make any adjustments necessary. The time it took to get everything set up for each pass through the planer was getting to be aggravating. Last week I was planing some Red Oak and was becoming more and more frustrated. Finally I had had enough and put the sled away and drove up to my local Home Depot. I didn't have a lot of money to spend so I picked up the Ridgid jointer they sell. It took less than two hours to get it put together and adjusted correctly and I went back to work with the Red Oak. No more frustration. Just flat stock to work with. Do I wish the money was available to buy an 8" grizzly or Jet? Sure, but you do what you can with the money you have to spend. The moral of my story is this...most Jigs and Sleds are great and save time and money. Others like the planer sled proved to be more time consuming and aggravating than what it was worth for me. When I spend more time getting something to work right and become aggravated in the process, it's time to bite the bullet and go buy the tool that's made to do the job in the first place.

Jeff Dunlap
11-26-2009, 11:47 PM
If you are working with such small pieces i would just use a 1' x 4' 3/4" MDF with a cleat in front and scrap wood for wedges. I have a jointer but needed to flatten wider boards. This is what i did, it was the first time i have done it and it worked just fine. I also have a lunch box planer DW734, i think for what you are doing you are making it way to complicated, sometimes simple is better. hope you have better luck in the future.

Gary Gleave
11-27-2009, 12:06 AM
Or, before jointing your first edge, place the board on a MDF sled and pin runners to both piece's. The pins only need to go in about 1/4", I use 23G. You will need to use a shooter board on the table saw to trim far enough into the board before jointing.

frank shic
11-27-2009, 12:20 AM
i've abandoned the planer sled and just joint the oversized board on my 6" ridgid jointer, plane off the unjointed portion and the run it through the planer.

Cory Hoehn
11-27-2009, 12:49 AM
I've got a Ridgid 13" planer and I use a similar sled, but it's much simpler. I just have a piece of 12" melamine shelving with a cleat on the rear (I but the workpiece up to the cleat). I use plain 'ol wood shims to get the rock out, then I use blue tape to hold them in place (tape from underneath and cut off any part that would get caught up in the blades). It's worked like a charm and elimates the risk of the blades or bed getting screw damage.

Jim Kountz
11-27-2009, 8:37 AM
For my planer sled, I used 3/4" MDF with two 1/2" thick 2" wide MDF runners. Through out the surface of the sled I drilled and placed an array of threaded inserts. From the bottom, I thread 1/4-20x1" nylon bolts. These nylon bolts are instead of the wedges. With either method, the very back edge of the work piece needs to be supported. Right at 0" not 1 or 2" in, right at the back edge or you well get really bad snipe. If the bolt falls out the planer won't even (I hope) notice the nylon versus the wood (versus a metal screw). The runners are there to provide a space for the bolt heads and reduce drag on the planer bed.

Then I got an actual jointer...but it looks good sitting there in the corner.

Anthony, is there some sort of cleat at the end to keep the stock from slipping or do you have another method for that??

Greg Sznajdruk
11-27-2009, 9:44 AM
I never liked the idea of finger tight drywall screws to hold the wedges in place. I used hard maple for the wedges and the cross supports. I drilled under size pilot holes and then ran the screws into the cross pieces. The screws on my sled require a screw driver to turn them, No problems to date.

Greg

Rick Boyett
11-27-2009, 10:28 AM
I just took a 11.5" x 48" piece of 3/4" plywood and put a small board at the leading edge to keep the stock from being pulled off. Then I just tape shims under the board to keep if from moving around. Seems to work pretty well but the entire process is slow.

I really need to get off my arse and pull the trigger on a new jointer. Craigslist has been coming up dry for a couple of weeks....

Malcolm Wheeler
11-27-2009, 7:22 PM
On my planer sled, I have successfully used these break away wedges from Lee Valley - I just tape them to the low spots on the sled side of the raw wood.

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=40070&cat=3,43738

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/hardware/entertainmentcenter/00s2050s1b.jpg