adirondackchairs

[david hines]

hi all i plan on buying nyw chair plans, but i am concerned about not having enough power tools(lol no one has enough) i dont have a band saw. My set up is a dewalt portable built into a rolling table with router table on other end and miter table on one side. i have jig saws and small drill press.can i build this with available tools .worried watching nyw with just about anything someone wants.
thanks david hines

[Michael Stafford]

Absolutely you have enough tools to accomplish this project. You do have portable hand sanders of some sort? Take your time and you'll do fine...

[Jim Becker]

The NYW Adirondacks can be built without a lot of power tools. In fact, a jig saw can be used to cut the curves (including the beveled back support) and you can rip your stock to width just fine with your current saw. Sanding can be by hand. Do use stainless steel fasteners and choose your material from those species that are naturally weather/rot resistant, such as Cypress, cedar, mahogany, white oak (not red!), ipe and teak. I built mine out of cypress and they have lasted 6 years now with no applied finish. BTW, this design is also one of the more comfortable ones...the seat and back angle are very nice in that respect. Not too deep and not too flat.

[Betsy Yocum]

David - if you have a jig saw and a router table - you can make all the chairs you want very easily. The trick is to make really good patterns (I use MDF) then use those to make the actual chair parts. Making patterns allows you to cut and sand until you like what you see then make exact duplicates without any muss or fuss.

I've attached my chairs - I used Wood Plans but have made a load of modifications to fit my taste in building.

If I can help more let me know. Be glad to help anyway I can.

The first is the large chair I make - its 3" all around bigger then the regular size chair. The second picture is the regular size and the third shows then side by side.

[Michael Stafford]

Has every woodworker in America made some NYW adirondacks? It sure seems that way. A testament to a good design and to Norm for expanding our hobby.

[Frank Pellow]

I see that this is your first post David. WELCOME!

About 25 years ago I built four Muskoka chairs (American's call these Adirondack chairs) out of 1 inch (really 1 inch) cedar using just a cheap jig saw, a cheap palm sander, and a cheap electric drill. They turned out very well and are still very much in use. I suggest cutting templates out of thin hardboard and using them to trace patterns. My hardboard patterns were subsequently used by at leat 5 people to build their own chairs.

[Jim Becker]

I suggest cutting templates out of thin hardboard and using them to trace patterns.
Especially for this project...make templates. Why? Once you sit in them you'll be making more at some point. Trust me, they are back on my project list...;)...using the 1/2" MDF templates I made six years ago.

[Jack Hogoboom]

Gee, Jim. Feel like sharing your templates? Those chairs have been on my project list since I started buying tools.

Jack

[Jim Becker]

Gee, Jim. Feel like sharing your templates? Those chairs have been on my project list since I started buying tools.
I'm sure we can work something out...like you coming to the shop and tracing them out, etc. You'll still want to get the plans, however.

[Michael Stafford]

I'm with Jim on the cypress. Very durable and long lasting outdoors. Easy to work with. Very available in my area.

[Ian Barley]

The difference with and without tools is the time it will take. Go for it. Take your time and make a good job of it. It will feed your enthusuasm.

Like Jim says, make the templates. They will make everything easier, from the first chair onwards.

Good luck and let us see how you get on.

[Mark Patoka]

Welcome David,

You can absolutely build these chairs with the tools you have. And as everyone else has said, once you make one, you'll end up making plenty others for friends. I've made mine with the exact tools you have. Don't let Norm intimidate you, just figure out the alternative method to making the cut if you don't have his same tools. For instance, I don't have a bandsaw either so I use my jigsaw for all the cuts and use my scrollsaw to cut the crosspiece that has the 27-1/2 degree angle. Could use the jigsaw for that also.

Below is my version of his chair from cypress. The only difference is I make the legs, arms, and side members 1-1/2" thick instead of 3/4". Gives it a better feel and more heft. I've made a few for friends and they also prefer it. You only have to change the size of the bracket that attaches to the leg to compensate for the thicker legs.

Not to discourage purchasing the plans but you can also find the chair plan in "Classics from the NYW" book. The same patterns are in the book for each of the pieces along with the narrative text on building them. The purchased plans are not full size so you'll still need to make your own out of MDF or cardboard, etc.

[david hines]

thanks for all the replies .i think the templet idea is worth pursuing and if i understand this right, rough cut the lumber and use router table to make finish cuts.also how much do these cost to make thanks everyone very helpful replies.

[Mark Patoka]

If you use the MDF or plywood templates, then you can use a pattern cutting bit to shape each piece with the router. I made poster board templates so I trace the pattern on each piece, cut it with the jigsaw and then clean it up with my drum sander.

If just finished making two of them that took 50 bd ft of cypress. Total cost with hardware and finish was just under $100 each. It took more lumber because I had to glue up several of the larger pieces to get them to 1-1/2" thick.

[Betsy Yocum]

Am I the only one who does not like "Norm's" chair? It doesn't sit right for me. Doesn't have that comfy feel to it.

Betsy

[Jim Becker]

Am I the only one who does not like "Norm's" chair? It doesn't sit right for me. Doesn't have that comfy feel to it.
For me, it's quite the opposite. The only Adirondack I've sat in that I found as comfortable as the NYW design are the ones that Ian Barley makes in the UK. (shameless plug...) But you bring up an excellent point...not everyone is best suited by the same chair design. We are all built differently and have diverse needs. Some Adirondacks are also hard for certain people to get into and out of, due to deep seating or heights that are too low to the ground.

[Jim Barrett]

I made 4 adirondack chairs about 16 yrs ago from some plans out of WWJ...I do not own them any longer but my daughter and sister-n-law still use them...unreal they have lasted this long...made them out of 3/4" cedar.
JimB

[Dennis Peacock]

Am I the only one who does not like "Norm's" chair? It doesn't sit right for me. Doesn't have that comfy feel to it.

Betsy

Betsy,

Here is what I came up with after combining 3 different designs into one. Just remember that this is my "prototype" chair. The real ones are posted somewhere here on SMC. :D

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=7447

[Betsy Yocum]

Betsy,

Here is what I came up with after combining 3 different designs into one. Just remember that this is my "prototype" chair. The real ones are posted somewhere here on SMC. :D

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=7447

Could'nt find the "real ones" but I'm guessing they are just as, if not, prettier than the prototype. Thanks for sharing.
Betsy

[Peter Stahl]

David,

Hand tools should be fine. No fancy jointery in a adirondack chair. I would use stainless steel hardware though. Cypress is the probaly the wood of choice but they can be made with just about anything. I saw a couple when I was in Ottawa that were made from man-made wood (e.g. Trex) that looked well made. Didn't sit in it or take any pics but the owner said his brother made them, was neighbor of my daughter. Wish I had gotten some pictures. Wife is going back soon, maybe I can get her to take a few.

Pete

[Dennis Peacock]

Correct....I used Type 503 Stainless Steel screws, bolts, washers and nuts for the chairs. The only way to go for outside furniture that may require mechanical fasteners.

[Betsy Yocum]

Dennis - those are gorgeous - absolutely!!

Betsy

[Ian Barley]

For me, it's quite the opposite. The only Adirondack I've sat in that I found as comfortable as the NYW design are the ones that Ian Barley makes in the UK. (shameless plug...) .....

Jim - Thanks for the kind words. You are right that comfort is ultimately a personal thing and what works for one person will not for another. There are however some general principles that help. As far as I can see with an adirondack chair one of the most important is the angle between seat and back and this should generally be between 90 and 100 degrees. This seems to give the right sort of "open" seating position that supports the spine but doesnt compress the abdomen. Much bigger than this and your lying down.

I also see a lot of designs with a very steeply raked seat angle. Sometimes this seems to be do to allow the side to be made from a smaller width/length of timber. Dennis' chair has the right sort of angles and looks like a good chair, not too long in the seat or too low at the front. I like the two tone finish Dennis. I am also curious about the spar at the top of the back slats. Do you cut it on a curve or is it bent to shape? Steamed??

I have attached a pic of my style of chair, This is the result of several evolutions over the last 7 years and is now a pretty mature design which seems to suit most people. I have made about 350 of them so far this year so I am nearly good at it by now! The second pic is my "Florida" chair more suited to those of a mature disposition. The seat and back are the same but raised a couple of inches and the seat is tilted a few degrees closer to horizontal.

[Frank Pellow]

Dennis, those are great looking chairs.