molded 220V power cord source?

[Joshua Layne]

Hi all,
I am planning on rewiring my tablesaw and my jointer (yet to arrive) for 220V - I have the outlets in the shop already, and would like molded plugs if at all possible - gauge of the power cord trumping aesthetics in this case, should they collide. I am assuming that I need at least 12 gauge cords - I saw 18 ga. molded cords on sale at mcmaster, but nothing thicker.

What do you all do?

TIA.

[Chuck Isaacson]

Go to Home Depot or Lowes and you can usually buy the wire or cabling whatever length that you want. They have it in big rolls and will cut to length.

CHuck

[Rob Russell]

Out of curiousity, what's wrong with the non-moulded plugs that you attach to the cord of your choice?

[Rod Sheridan]

Joshua, flexible cord ampacities are different than building wire ampacities.

If you're using single phase machines there are only 2 current carrying conductors.

The Canadian electrical code lists 14 gauge at 18 amperes, 12 gauge at 25 amperes for most common flexible cord types.

The US code would be similar.

All my machines have 14 gauge cords since the largest machine I own is 4 HP at 240V (16 amperes).

I also suggest purchasing flexible cord and cord caps and making your own cords.

Regards, Rod.

[Alan Trout]

Most of the home centers or electrical supply houses sell "SOO CORD" it can be purchased in both 3 and 4 conductor cord by the foot. Use the proper amp rated plugs and receptacles and go from there. This is how all my 220V cords have been made.

Good Luck

Alan

[Lee Schierer]

They appear to be available for portable welders. Welder Extenson cord (http://cgi.ebay.com/25-Foot-220-Volt-Extension-Cable-w-Outlet-and-Plug_W0QQitemZ220428300587QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_De faultDomain_0?hash=item33528cf12b)

When replacing damaged cords on power tools, I've noted that I can buy a good extension cord with a molded plug and cut off the female enad for less money than buying wire and a plug separately.

[Matt Meiser]

I've found some really nice plugs at my local hardware store (not a big box) that don't look and feel cheap if that's what your concern is. The funny thing is they don't really cost any more.

And sometimes its cheaper to buy an extension cord and cut off the end than buying cord and a plug.

[David Bridgeman]

I just switched over my table saw to 220 and use an appropriate sized extension cord from HD. I just cut off the female end, stripped the wires and wired it up. I think the extension cord was $12 for a 9ft length.

[glenn bradley]

My outlets are high on the wall compared to the house outlets (like most of you I assume) so I found the plug style on the right in this pic (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=105518&d=1230947400) to work well and keep the cord out of the way. Perhaps molded plugs come this way(?). Just food for thought.

[Joshua Layne]

Wow - thanks for all the replies guys.

Definitely have some options now. In answer to the query about what's wrong with the add-on plugs, nothing at all - they function fine, it is just a slight preference that I have (mainly for aesthetics - I know, I should save it for the furniture :P) I'll probably give the BORG extension cords a try.

Best Regards,
Josh

[Mike Cruz]

I needed to wire/rewire a bunch of stuff in my shop, so I bought a 100' 12 gauge extension cord, cut them to length and added male and female ends. I got exactly the lengths I needed (at the time I was making them...when I knew what their exact lengths needed to be...not while standing at the borg with a list). I think I got mine on sale for $40 plus ends. Now, I was doing most of this for 220 application, so my ends were a bit pricey, but it all worked out great.

[Wayne Cannon]

The same question comes to my mind, as well. If you tear apart a molded plug, you will find that the connection between the wire and the blade is significantly inferior (in terms of resistance and resistance to abuse) to that of almost any after-market plug. It's usually just a very small spot weld or less substantial connection that only holds together because of the molded plastic around it. Quality after-market plugs also have better clamping of the cable than molded plugs.

One place where molded plugs shine, however, are the ones with long strain-relief tails to prevent the cord from making a sharp bend at the back end of the plug.

Having said all that, the least expensive and most readily available solution I've found (like others here) is to purchase a heavy-duty extension cord and simply use the plug end.

[Ben Martin]

I just switched over my table saw to 220 and use an appropriate sized extension cord from HD. I just cut off the female end, stripped the wires and wired it up. I think the extension cord was $12 for a 9ft length.

This is what I did, MUCH cheaper than buying the wire seperately. IIRC, buying the extension cord was 50% less...

[Adam Carl]

I replaced the cord that came with my unisaw X5 with a thicker gauge SO cord and changed the plug to a generator (twist) plug. Not cheap but it is nice and secure.

[Josiah Bartlett]

Which type of receptacle do you plan to use? Molded cords are commonly available in dryer (NEMA 10-30) and range (NEMA 14-50) type receptacles if you want to use that type.
You can identify your connector type here:
http://www.stayonline.com/reference-nema-straight-blade.aspx

[Rollie Meyers]

Which type of receptacle do you plan to use? Molded cords are commonly available in dryer (NEMA 10-30) and range (NEMA 14-50) type receptacles if you want to use that type.
You can identify your connector type here:
http://www.stayonline.com/reference-nema-straight-blade.aspx

A NEMA 10-30 is not a grounding type device,it's a dual voltage device line, line,& neutral.....

[Josiah Bartlett]

A NEMA 10-30 is not a grounding type device,it's a dual voltage device line, line,& neutral.....

Oops- that was 10-30P, superseded in code by 14-30P. A lot of older homes used the 10-30P, mine included. Probably not a good idea to use for equipment anymore but can still be purchased.

[Rollie Meyers]

Oops- that was 10-30P, superseded in code by 14-30P. A lot of older homes used the 10-30P, mine included. Probably not a good idea to use for equipment anymore but can still be purchased.

NEMA 10-30 & 10-50 devices are still code acceptable for EXISTING installations for clothes dryers & ranges.

[Steven DeMars]

If you want something durable, buy SO cord by the foot & a "quality" plug.

Assemble correctly & you have something that will take the wear & tear of a shop & be safe. It will be around for life & won't fall apart when you unplug it. Besides, do you really want to smell that "nauseous" odor put off by Chinese plastic & rubber. One thing I like about my shop is the fact I can retreat to a room full of well made "things" that produces well made "things". And of course, the sweet smell of wood . . . .

I personally have no desire to have power routed through a bunch of molded Chinese devices 24/7. They make "look pretty", but they are junk.

With electrical work, junk = fire

Just my 2 cents . . .
Steve