Veritas Wheel Marking Gauge

[Gil Knowles]

Hi
I am considering purchasing a Veritas gauge and am wondering if the one with the micro adjust feature is worth getting over the standard one.
Many Thanks
Gil

[Eddie Darby]

I have the LV version without the fine adjust, and I have the LN version with the fine adjust, and I use the fine adjust almost all the time, so I think that getting the fine adjust is worth the extra expense.

If you do dovetail work, then it is real handy.

[gary Zimmel]

I don't have the Veritas making gauge.

But the ones I have all have the micro adjustment.
To me it's a great feature. Well worth it.

[John Coloccia]

Mine doesn't have the micro adjust. I wish it did! Well worth the extra cost.

Tip to easily get the gauge flush without the micro adjust, especially handy for dovetails. Instead of trying to hold the wood and the gauge, and get everything just right while you tighten, put the wood down on your bench, and put the gauge on top of the wood, i.e. use the bench as a stop for the gauge and essentially transform the activity into taking a depth measurement. That's FAR easier for me, anyway.

[lowell holmes]

Definitely, get the fine adjust model. I have all of the LV marking gages. I use the fine adjust model most of the time.
I have the mortise attachment for the non-fine adjust gage. It is set to match my 1/4" mortise chisel.

[Jim Koepke]

I have enough gauges without the fine adjustment feature to know if another is bought, it will have the fine adjustment feature.

jim

[Shawn Albe]

I'm wondering the same thing, but came across a couple of reviews on other sites where people weren't at all happy with the micro adjust. Seems it is a two-handed affair (not as slick as the Lie-Nielsen/Tite Mark design. People who bought it were saying it wasn't worth getting the microadjust version.

One was on lumberjocks (http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/product/72), the other was on a british site (http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4110)

I was set to get the micro adjust version, but it sounds like it just doesn't work that well. Does anyone here have the LV micro adjust version? Is it a pain to use the micro adjust feature?

[Jon Toebbe]

I got the non-micro-adjustable gauge and haven't really felt I was lacking. They're nicely made gauges that get the job done. It sounds like the consensus is pro micro-adjust, so maybe I'll have to pick one up... y'know, just to see how it works. :)

[Chris Friesen]

I have multiple gauges. I have actually used them all in one project...it's handy to be able to set a dimension and leave it till I *know* I won't need it anymore. Anyways, here's my thoughts on the ones I have, in order of acquisition:

1) Lee Valley 3-in-1 brass gauge. Great for small measurements, inexpensive, flexible. Needs two hands to lock it. Won't roll off the bench.

2) Veritas wheel gauge. The microadjust is useful but needs two hands to use. Don't bother with the graduations. Can roll off the bench. I keep thinking about filing some flats fence to prevent rolling, but haven't yet been able to bring myself to do it.

3) Lee Valley deluxe mortise marking gauge (got it at half price, needed some tweaking). Looks great, old school. Nice for marking out mortises.

4) Glen Drake Tite-mark. The Caddillac/Bentley/Rolls of wheel gauges. Microadjust with one-hand operation. Expensive. Love it.

[Eric Brown]

I have the Micro-adjust one, a bunch of other "traditional" ones and the new LV small double ended one. I find the micro-adjust handy but feel it needs two hands to operate. However, it has a longer adjustment body which makes it easier for me to hold. The traditional styles have wider registration faces though. I prefer the wheel type cutter over the pin or knife but that could simply be my lack of experience. One more little thing, the round gages tend to roll. If I had to buy again, I would give the tite-mark very strong consideration. It even comes in a small version with mortice blades and shaft extensions optional.

Eric

[Mike Henderson]

I have the LV micro adjust and never had any problems. Never used the tite-mark, however.

Mike

[Sam Babbage]

Among a whole buunch of gauges, I've got a Titemark at home and a couple of LV with micro-adjust at work. The Titemark is the best certainly, but for the money the LV are awesome. Most of the time I don't bother engaging the micro, since the o-ring friction on the shaft makes it easy to set. But when you need ridiculous accuracy it is nice to have and worth the few extra dollars.z

EDIT: For what it's worth, while not nearly as elegant as the Titemark, you can use the LV micro with one hand. Set the gauge roughly by eye or using the graduated stem if you have one, flip it in your hand so you are holding the head in your palm and tighten the collet, flip the gauge again and use your thumb and forefinger to micro-adjust.

[Derek Cohen]

I have the Tite-Mark (with micro adjust) and the LV (without micro adjust). Of the two I consider the TM the better made/designed gauge. It is a solidly and capable of precise adjustments. However I often find that I grab the LV more often. It is easier/less complex to use. While lacking a mechanical micro adjust, it is very capable of fine adjustments with a squeeze of the tip of a thumb. Both gauges are easy to adjust with one hand.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[James White]

I am thinking of getting the LV wheel gauge. But I have a question for those that have used the TM and LV. Does the LV have a steep angle like the TM. I ask because I have a wheel gauge sold by Hartville and the bevel of the wheel does not allow it to cut deep in tough woods like oak. Were I see the one that Rob Cosman uses slices the wood quite nice.

James

[Chris Fournier]

I have the first model LV marking gauge. It was $29.00 at the time. The TM is a way nicer gauge compared to mine but at the time it cost 3X as much also.

As for fine adjustment, mine doesn't have it and I wouldn't ever need it. I use a high quality 6" etched steel rule to set my LV gauge. Loosen the gauge, place one end of the rule on the gauge shoulder and put the cutter on the etched measurement that you're after and then tighten the guage. This'll get you to 1/64" anytime you want and for most purposes if you can cut to that marked line then you're the MAN! This system is flawless and becomes second nature. I'm still on my first cutter after much more than 10 years.

[glenn bradley]

I use the LV micro-adjust and find the adjust feature to now be indispensable. Save yourself and avoid this convenience. If you never have it, you won't miss it. There is about a 2 minute learning curve as to how the mechanism works. After that its like breathing.

[Robert Culver]

I have the veritas mico adjust and I like it. the tite mark is nice but for the price l/v got my busness. the one thing I can say is read the manual on how to set it up the micro adjust it is kinda finiky to get used to but once you do its no problem. The tite mark like I say is a fine piece of eqipment but I just think you can do better than the price. you pay for what you get its just whats your limit.

[Don Dorn]

Just my opinion of course, but the LV wheel gauge is the one tool that I don't care for from Veritas. The quality of build is fine, but I've never been able to get it cut as it should - even when getting a new blade. That said, I also have the LV 3 in 1 brass gauge and use it all the time. Even the wheel portion of that gauge works better than the standard wheel gauge.

I'm probably going to spring for another and am thinking about the Rob Cosman gauge. As to adjustable, haven't used one so I don't know what I'm missing, but certainaly haven't had any problem adjusting the non-adjust models because I don't set anything proud..

[Niels Cosman]

i can't speak to the LV gauge having never used it but i've two tite-marks and a bridge city wheel marking gauge (mg-3 non micro-adjustable).

I have used the tite-mark for 7 years and it is so nice that last week I bought a second one. The bridge city is a beautiful gauge and the large size of the block is really nice in certain circumstances BUT setting it can be awkward and is definitely a two handed affair.

That micrometer adjustment mechanism is worth it's weight in gold. yes- the price of the tite-mark is fairly high and so are the attachments- but it is all of the highest quality and completely worth it in my opinion.

The Cosman gauge looks interesting- I really like the concept of the screw adjusted mortise adjuster however- it doesn't appear to have the micro adjust for the main marker which is a deal breaker for me. He should totally license that mortise attachment to glen-drake :)

[James White]

Just my opinion of course, but the LV wheel gauge is the one tool that I don't care for from Veritas. The quality of build is fine, but I've never been able to get it cut as it should - even when getting a new blade. That said, I also have the LV 3 in 1 brass gauge and use it all the time. Even the wheel portion of that gauge works better than the standard wheel gauge.

I'm probably going to spring for another and am thinking about the Rob Cosman gauge. As to adjustable, haven't used one so I don't know what I'm missing, but certainaly haven't had any problem adjusting the non-adjust models because I don't set anything proud..

Does anyone else feel this way about the LV? The TM is a bit pricey for me. Since I also need a Dovetail saw. I was thinking LV for both items.

By the way it was the TM that I saw Cosman using in one of his videos. I didn't know he had his own. I wonder who makes it for him???

James

[John A. Callaway]

wood craft sells the Cosman gauge.

[Jim Koepke]

I have a Tite Mark and the LV. I like the Tite Mark as it is easier to set. Instead of an O-ring it has a plastic set screw so the friction can be custom set.

It makes a good mark, but sometimes going with the grain it is a bit hard to see. A sharp pencil when held lightly will follow the mark to make it more visible.

Here is a comparison of mine done a while ago.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?133966-Tite-Mark-Compared-to-Veritas-Wheel-Gauge

jtk

[Rick Erickson]

Does anyone else feel this way about the LV? The TM is a bit pricey for me. Since I also need a Dovetail saw. I was thinking LV for both items.

By the way it was the TM that I saw Cosman using in one of his videos. I didn't know he had his own. I wonder who makes it for him???

James


Yep. I owned the LV gauge and sold it as soon as I bought my TM. I own a TM and a Cosman. Both are very nice and IMO much better than the LV.

[David Weaver]

Does anyone else feel this way about the LV? The TM is a bit pricey for me. Since I also need a Dovetail saw. I was thinking LV for both items.

By the way it was the TM that I saw Cosman using in one of his videos. I didn't know he had his own. I wonder who makes it for him???

James

I like the veritas gauge fine. I have several gauges, none of them are the TM gauge. I've never had trouble setting the LV gauge, and I've never had trouble with it cutting. Price was a consideration to me because it's not my only marking gauge (i have a couple of rosewood and brass, a couple of panel gauges, and some japanese gauges) and I didn't want to spend that much money on a gauge that isn't necessarily great in long grain.

If I have a short length to set, I just set the veritas gauge with the pin that sticks out of the end of the handle on a good set of calipers. If I have to reset it, i've never found it trouble to take a marked line and put the knife wheel in the marked line and set it quickly off of that.

[Mark Baldwin III]

I'd love to have one like the one that Jim Kingshott used in his Dovetail DVD. Right now I have a traditional style pin gauge and a wheel gauge that I got at Rockler. I'm not really fond of either of them. I've been trying to decide between getting a TM from Lie-Nielsen or the LV micro adjuster.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

I have the LV with micro adjust and I never use the feature. I love how it cuts and I love the visibility of the blade while setting a depth. But i prefer the egronomics of my home made marking gauge. It can be set and locked with one hand.
http://photos.ganzhorn.org/album783/69CG6221 (http://photos.ganzhorn.org/album783/69CG6221?full=1)
That being said i typically reach for the LV.
Salem

[Jim Koepke]

One thing that makes me like the TM is the ease and speed of using the micro adjustment.

Of course it isn't absolutely necessary, but when marking the center of a piece it makes it very fast to set it by eye, then mark from both sides. If the marks do not reach each other, dial a little out. If the marks go past each other, dial a little in.

It is really quick and convenient for marking a center line.

The TM is easy to use one handed. This makes it easier to use as a depth gauge.

jtk

[James White]

Jim,

Thank you for sharing that. I hadn't thought about using a marking gauge as a center finder. I was more interested in how the LV cut. Most of the comments seem to be about the LV micro adjust being fiddly. I was willing to pay that price. But now you bring up something that makes me have to think again. Oh brother! I hate my indecision some times.

James


One thing that makes me like the TM is the ease and speed of using the micro adjustment.

Of course it isn't absolutely necessary, but when marking the center of a piece it makes it very fast to set it by eye, then mark from both sides. If the marks do not reach each other, dial a little out. If the marks go past each other, dial a little in.

It is really quick and convenient for marking a center line.

The TM is easy to use one handed. This makes it easier to use as a depth gauge.

jtk

[James White]

Salem,

Nice workmanship on that gauge.

James

[Adam Cherubini]

Gil,

These gauges offend my sensibilities. I know guys have them and love them. But I have trouble accepting them. First, the pizza wheel gauge is a solution to a problem that never existed. When you use a traditional marking gauge, you are meant to drag the tip behind the beam, sometimes using the edge of the beam to control the penetration of the pin. You don't force the pin through the wood at a right angle and pull with all your might and wonder why the mark came out fuzzy.

Second, the pin is shaped to the users liking. Typically, they have half foot ball shapes in cross section and an elliptical shape in profile, which makes them work farily well cross grain.

Lastly, gauges are used to transfer dimensions, not establish them. That sort of defeats the prupose of a gauge. I have no doubt the micro adjusting venier measuring features are helpful to some. But that's not what gauges were for traditionally and I wonder what if folks realize that (or care).

If you want a board that is 3/4" thick, we might use a gauge for that. Forgeting for moment about why we need 3/4" or what accuracy is required, what I do is set my gauge to my 3/4" chisel. This is accurate- more accurate than any measurement, easy on my tired old eyes, and repeatable. If I want two board the same thickness, I plane one, and set the gauge to it to mark the second. That's the traditional usage for a gauge.

I use a French gauge similar to those in the Seaton chest. Gauges like mine are accurate, fun to make, and can be completely operated with one hand, which in my shop is huge benefit few other gauges can match.

In my mind, these well made (LV) gauges are like the DT saw with 2 handles. They are a solution to a problem solved with a little reading, and some practice. If someone doesn't feel like doing that, I respect that and think nothing less of them (of course). But as a default recommended tool, I have trouble with this one because the technique is so easy to learn. I don't care for honing jigs either, but I can make a better case for them since it does take some time to learn free hand honing.

Adam

[Jim Koepke]

I hadn't thought about using a marking gauge as a center finder. I was more interested in how the LV cut. Most of the comments seem to be about the LV micro adjust being fiddly.

My ending up with both LV and TM marking gauges was just a lucky happenstance.

There was another thread about marking gauges. At the time I had neither. One person had both gauges and offered to sell me their LV gauge. (that tells us their opinion) After buying that and using the TM at a Tool Event, I also bought the TM. (that lets you know my opinion)

Now it is my quest to use a tape measure less. My marking gauges are one of the tools that are very useful for measuring by comparison instead of numbers. Comparison measurement tends to be less error prone for me than working with numbers on a stick. Even using a story stick helps to stop the confusion of all the different numbers and allows me to work more with the wood.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

+1 on what James said.

I saw an article on building one of those and have thought about building one if ever the round tuit & spare time come my way.

jtk

[Sean Hughto]

The nice thing about a sliced line it that it provides great feedback for paring or planing to the line. You can literally see fromt he top while you work when you have reached the line because your chisel or plane has removed the top half of the slice. That's what I value most about the wheel gauge as opposed to pins.

[Pam Niedermayer]

The nice thing about a sliced line it that it provides great feedback for paring or planing to the line. You can literally see fromt he top while you work when you have reached the line because your chisel or plane has removed the top half of the slice. That's what I value most about the wheel gauge as opposed to pins.

OK, but that's one of the nice things about all cutting gauges, and I prefer to use one that has small knive(s) rather than wheels, such as Kinshiro's (http://japantool-iida.com/marking/2008/05/kinshiro-marking-gauge.html).

Pam

[Derek Gilmer]

OK, but that's one of the nice things about all cutting gauges, and I prefer to use one that has small knive(s) rather than wheels, such as Kinshiro's (http://japantool-iida.com/marking/2008/05/kinshiro-marking-gauge.html).

Pam
Here I was thinking the tite-mark was expensive. $240 + shipping for a marking gauge seems a bit much...

[David Weaver]

that is a boutique gauge. There are plenty of japanese marking gauges in the $20-$40 range.

Tomohito (who runs that site) doesn't tend to list many plain user tools, it's not his business.

[Sean Hughto]

Maybe I didn't understand Adam, but I was just trying to say that wheel (or knife bladed gauges) tend to make better reference lines than those that have pins which more or less scratch rather than slice.

[Derek Gilmer]

Maybe I didn't understand Adam, but I was just trying to say that wheel (or knife bladed gauges) tend to make better reference lines than those that have pins with more or less scratch rather than slice.
I agree. I've got the LV basic marking gauge and another pin style gauge and greatly prefer the LV for anything that will be visible. The cut is much cleaner in my newbie neader paws.

I think Adam was saying with practice the pin style works perfectly well. And have some advantages over modern style gauges once you are good with them.

[Derek Gilmer]

that is a boutique gauge. There are plenty of japanese marking gauges in the $20-$40 range.

Tomohito (who runs that site) doesn't tend to list many plain user tools, it's not his business.
Ya.. I get the concept. But I find it almost as silly as people that pay 100s or 1000s of dollars for speaker cable and power cords for home audio. Maybe when I'm rich and famous it'll make more sense :)

[David Weaver]

I can't identify with the speaker people or the art-tool people (a lot of what tomohito sells would probably be a combination of art and tools). Well, i can understand the art tool thing a little better than the speaker people, it's just outside of my comfort zone to buy art tools.

The cheaper japanese style gauges are a good option, though, that's all I was getting at. Other than shape, they're not a lot different than any other knife gauge. though I guess not many people have knife gauges - folks either have pin or wheel gauges.

[John Coloccia]

The wheel gauge is very nice marking the edges of your piece. You can roll it around the edge. I was excited when I saw Cosman do that..."Gee, I'm not the only one that rolls it. :)" I find that far easier to do than to mark a 1/2" or less piece of wood with a more traditional marking gauge. I'm not even sure I own a traditional gauge anymore, actually. I've no doubt that the "traditional" gauge can work well, but I question the notion that it's somehow more traditional than the wheel marking gauge. I know that the wheel marking gauge has been around since at least the late 1800s, and for all I know has been around for longer than that. In plane English (giggle) that means it's been around about as long as the first Stanley planes.

[David Weaver]

I would imagine had such a thing existed in the 18th century at a "user cost" like the veritas, they would've used it - probably heavily. If the TM is even more slick, that's even better.

I use a japanese style mortise gauge, because it's easy to set and it cuts deep. It'd be nice if there were a two-wheel, two stem veritas mortise gauge with bigger diameter wheels for a deep cut for marking mortises.

[John Coloccia]

I would imagine had such a thing existed in the 18th century at a "user cost" like the veritas, they would've used it - probably heavily. If the TM is even more slick, that's even better.

I use a japanese style mortise gauge, because it's easy to set and it cuts deep. It'd be nice if there were a two-wheel, two stem veritas mortise gauge with bigger diameter wheels for a deep cut for marking mortises.

Like this?

http://jonzimmersantiquetools.com/tools/gauge_leavitt.jpg

:)

Look here. I don't know anything about these guys. I just searched on "antique wheel marking gauge" and they were the first hit
http://jonzimmersantiquetools.com/tools/measlist.htm

What I actually wouldn't mind is a gauge with a wheel in the middle, and a guide on either end. Then I could sandwich the wood in the middle, adjust the wheel to what I want, and scribe a nice heavy line right down the edge. That would make marking for resawing (a common occurrence in my shop) more convenient. Really, anytime you want to mark down a long edge would be made easier.

[David Weaver]

Yeah, like that but with deeper wheels.

Maybe they should have a raffle for the april fools marking gauge they had a few years ago.

[Pam Niedermayer]

Here I was thinking the tite-mark was expensive. $240 + shipping for a marking gauge seems a bit much...

Yes, it is, I had to save up for it; but honestly, it's worth every penny, it somehow works and feels perfect, effortless. I made a small one myself, bought Kinshiro's blade set for much, much less money.

That said, Japan Woodworker has very good versions for much less money, say $35 (http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=15.260&dept_id=12996), which work just fine.

Also note, you hold these gauges with thumb and forefinger wrapped over the top, remaining fingers under the beam.

Pam

[Pam Niedermayer]

Yeah, like that but with deeper wheels.

I have one of those double "beam" gauges and don't like it much, something about the offset lines' starting and stopping points offends.

Pam

[Jim Koepke]

It'd be nice if there were a two-wheel, two stem veritas mortise gauge with bigger diameter wheels for a deep cut for marking mortises.

The Stanley #98 marking gauge is a double beam gauge with slightly larger wheels. It also has pins at the other end of the beams.

jtk

[Pam Niedermayer]

I can't identify with the speaker people or the art-tool people (a lot of what tomohito sells would probably be a combination of art and tools). Well, i can understand the art tool thing a little better than the speaker people, it's just outside of my comfort zone to buy art tools. ...

I very much identify with craft people who make their tool making into an art form. In a past life I was a software developer, and I made my software as elegant (fast, concise, logical, etc.) as possible, and I charged a lot to make that software (wish I still had some of those customers, but alas, 9/11 wiped it all out). I think anyone who does his/her best to make quality product, whatever it is, should appreciate the effort put into such elegant tools. If you think about it, about how much work goes into making such a tool, you'd realize that these prices are bargains. Seriously, I wouldn't consider making a Kinshiro gauge for less than $500 - $1,000.

Pam

[David Weaver]

I've made a couple of infill planes. I wouldn't make them for other people at any price, i understand the commitment and the level of effort. Let me revise that, I've made three of them without any power tools other than a power sander and a cordless drill. The fourth one, when i finally get back to them, will be the same. After that, I don't know, probably still all by hand. I think what it would take for me to make a plane for pay and for what you'd want for a marking gauge, neither of us has to worry about anyone contacting us asking if we'll make them any. I'll leave that to the pros.

The only reason I say I can't identify is because I haven't spent the money on such things, though I guess I do have one "art plane", but I got it used. I would buy it again in a second, but if I bought a few of them new, i would be divorced. I understand the mcintosh crowd, too (pretend it hadn't been diluted by person to person sales since the advent of the internet), but it's still not something I would buy. I'd say "i can't identify", not because I don't understand but because i don't have a room full of it.

It's not that I don't appreciate the art, it's just that i'm going to fund my retirement first.

I would like to have a togo reigou plane at some point, but it's not in the cards right now unless some little old lady walks down the street selling one for 200 bucks. What makes a togo plane valuable is not something that I really need as a user, though my "art plane" is inikubi, it's not the same thing as reigou and i love a plane that holds an edge like a pa dutchman holds on to a nickel, and fails by wear and not chipping. If anyone ever figures out how to laminate powder metal HSS to kamaji, there really won't be any reason to have it, anyway, unless someone wants to have an artifact where price is based on rarity. Last I looked togo reigou was made by two smiths, and brings about $1700. inikubi isn't nearly as rare, or at least desirable, and i only paid $250 for a plane with a nice box. New price would've still only been a third of the reigou planes.

Anyway, getting off track. Nothing wrong with appreciating the craft and supporting it with dollars. Beats the poo out of a house full of plastic stuff with CHINA stamped on the bottom.

[Derek Cohen]

I am in the fortunate position of having tried out many marking gauges, built some, and own a few of the better ones around.

To deal with the original question - which wheel marking gauge - my answer remains the same as 2 years ago ... the Tite-Mark is the better design and quality, but I happily use the two LVs I have, including the little Pocket gauge.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasPocketMarkingGauge_html_ce9f026.jpg

The advantage of the wheel gauges is that they are compact and offer great control, perfect for marking lines on small boards, especially the edges, such as on small boxes and drawers for dovetailing. I can adjust all with one hand. In the end my vote would go the the TM - just a solid, easy-to-use tool.

The disadvantage is that they have relatively small faces, which offers less registration and stability on deep markings, and the wheels do not leave a deep line on hardwood.

I started out with the usual poor fair, then bought a Stanley #65, which I consider to be one of the best pin gauges around. The pin was converted to a knife, which improved the finish.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/Stanley65-2.jpg

Not long after I built my own cutting gauge, based on the Woodjoy.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/Marking-cuttinggauge2.jpg

This is now reserved for marking on curves (it has a reversible fence).

A couple of years ago I was spolit by an extravagent gift of a Kinshiro (below) from a Wood Central friend, Wiley Horne. The smaller one I bought from So in Sydney.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/JMarkinggauge1.jpg

I absoutely love these gauges, especially Wiley's, which excells for morticing as well ..

There is a pictorial on setting it up in my article: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/AHandcutMorticeandTenonPrimer-BlindMortice.html

And going over-the-top, I won a Colen Clenton as a prize in a tool-making competition ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/AHandcutMorticeandTenonPrimer-BlindMortice_html_7ffed7ba.jpg

The CC is beautifully made, but is let down by the non-knurled locking knob. It doesn't require much pressure to tighten - indeed it is possible to do this with one hand - but it is not as easy as it could be.

The advantage of a cutting gauge for me is illustrated in this (recent) article I posted on my website with regard to the chiseling of dovetail baseline ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/DovetailBaselines.html

The disadvantage is that they are more clumsy on the edges of boards.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[James White]

Wow Derek. Thank you for sharing that with us. I am sure that, that answered a lot of unasked as well as asked questions. But now I hate you because I want one of each.:D

James

[Adam Cherubini]

Hi Sean,

Derek has it right. When you look at it, the pin shape on my gauge it isn't wholly unlike the pizza wheel. It
is rounded at the bottom and tapered to a knife edge on both sides. Frankly, I think the pizza wheel leaves a nicer line. But with marks like these, esthetics may not count. Both lines are usable downstream. Guys in the 18th c didn't mind leaving/seeing layout marks. Are you offended by grill marks on a steak? Those are tool marks too. They may have looked at it like that.

If you want a super great layout line, a cutting gauge will probably outperform the pizza wheel. They had these in the 18th c too. But these take more skill to operate and maintain.

I don't feel stroingly about this issue at all. The pizza wheel gauges are fine and folks should use them and be happy with them and their purchase of them. But let's not kid ourselves into thinking they are better than what was. I'd argue they aren't even as good as because they can't be used one handed. And their design supports activities that one probably shouldn't do with them.

The problem is, you can't mass produce a gauge like mine that will work "out of the box". You have to learn to shape the pin yourself and learn to use it. My feeling is, both are worth it.

[Peter Pedisich]

Derek,

Thanks so much for the Blind Mortise Primer! Being relatively new to hand tools this is invaluable, and the pictures are excellent.

Pete

[Derek Cohen]

Here is a knife blade I made for a panel gauge I built ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/Panel%20Gauge/PanelGauge3.jpg

The end is rounded, not pointed.

Shaped from a HSS rod ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/Panel%20Gauge/PanelGauge6.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/Panel%20Gauge/PanelGauge5.jpg

The knife on the Colen Clenton is identical.

Adam, yours sounds more rounded overall than this (not just at the tip).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Gilmer]

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/Panel%20Gauge/PanelGauge6.jpg



If this is still considered a "pin" style marking gauge that makes a lot more sense to me. The pin gauge I have is more of a compass point instead of fat knife blade like this is. It seems much less likely to tear out on both sides of the line. Which I like. Maybe I need to break down and buy a good pin gauge and learn to use it well. But for now my pizza cutter does what I need so I can focus on other hand tool practice.

[David Weaver]

If you don't feel the need to get anything else, then I would stay right where you are with the wheel gauge.

I use my wheel gauges for pretty much everything except marking rip saw cuts, even if the width allows for the use of a wheel gauge - they don't make a heavy enough mark with the grain. I have a pin panel gauge and a knife panel gauge - the pin makes a nicer saw mark.

[Bill Sanson]

The Micro adjustment for a few extra bucks is well worth the money. You will be happy that you did!!

Bill