How to attach apron on my workbench

[David Schmaus]

I built the essential workbench. I made a single large dovetail on each side apron to fit on the end apron.

I am attaching the end aprons with 5 inch lag bolts (and washer) with a oversize hole drilled in the end aprons to allow for side to side movement. Should I attach the side aprons the same way? A couple countersunk lag bolts on each side with the holes drilled oversized to let the apron move with the top...

Thanks

[harry strasil]

I used loose dowels (not glued in) to attach my Apron to my bench top, to keep the apron from warping.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/nu%20bench/012309Nubenchaprondowels.jpg

And rebated the ends of the Apron.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/nu%20bench/Nubenchrebates001.jpg

and the tops of the front legs.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/nu%20bench/Nubenchrebates002.jpg

and used two carriage bolts in recessed holes on each end to fasten it to the legs.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/nu%20bench/bnchmove004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/nu%20bench/coatedbench050809.jpg

[harry strasil]

OOps, I think I missread your post and what I posted doesn't apply, Sorry.

[David Schmaus]

thats ok. its late

[Alan Schaffter]

Just glue on the side aprons- it is a long grain to long grain joint and will be stronger than the wood itself. I didn't quite follow your description of the dovetails on the end aprons but I hope one end of the end apron has pins and the side the tails so the joint can move as the top expands and contracts seasonally.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1463/medium/IMG_2934.jpg

You really don't want countersunk bolts in the ends if you plan to have an end vice there. To avoid that, you can put barrel nuts in holes drilled from the bottom of the end aprons. Threaded rod inserted through a hole in the back of the apron holds the apron tightly. The other end of the threaded rod goes into a hole I drilled in the end of the top and ends in a larger opening so I can use a wrench to tighten a nut. The hole in the back of the apron and in the bench top is 3/8" and the threaded rod 1/4" which allows for seasonal movement. End result- snug end aprons, allow for expansion, and no visible bolts.

View from the bottom showing (L. to R.) barrel nut hole, nut/washer, and threaded rod.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1463/medium/IMG_2952.jpg

No bolt holes:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1463/medium/IMG_2948.jpg