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Tom Winship
11-21-2009, 4:30 PM
I'd like to start a poll on who uses what medium for sharpening their handplanes.
1. Waterstones
2. Oilstones
3. Sandpaper
4. Diamonds
5. Other

Lloyd Parker
11-21-2009, 7:00 PM
Oilstones (Norton India, Followed by a Translucent Arkansas)

However, for some edges I do use a 8000 grit waterstone for finishing.

Pam Niedermayer
11-21-2009, 7:31 PM
All of them as needed.

Pam

Jim Koepke
11-21-2009, 8:04 PM
I have used all of them at times and still do.

Mostly use water stones and sandpaper.

jim

george wilson
11-21-2009, 8:38 PM
Diamond stone,then black ceramic,then white same,then,strop.

Harlan Barnhart
11-21-2009, 10:17 PM
1000/4000/8000 waterstones then strop with green compound on leather.

Roger Benton
11-22-2009, 10:21 AM
water stones all the way. 1000, 5000, 8000. veritas mkII as well. made the transition from 'scary sharp' method almost a year ago and i'm happy so far. i use the japanese super stones from tfww, they don't need to soak you just spray a little water on them and you're ready to go. for the three stones and the honing guide it's a big hit to the wallet but it works, and will keep working for quite some time so to me it's totally worth it.
I do keep a few plates of glass with 150, 220, 320, 400, 600 sandpaper for dealing with big nicks or new vintage tools that look like they've been sharpened on the sidewalk.

Don Naples
11-22-2009, 11:56 AM
A Lap-Sharp of course.

Mark Berenbrok
11-22-2009, 12:33 PM
Scary sharp and finish with waterstones.

Scot Ferraro
11-22-2009, 3:29 PM
Oilstones for me -- I have always thought that water and iron do not mix and worry about rusting. However, I have been looking at the Shapton GlassStones and might give them a try.

Scot

Michael Peet
11-23-2009, 9:52 PM
I started on water stones and moved to scary sharp. Veritas Mk II honing guide in either case. It's easier to get a bigger work surface with sandpaper than stone; even my big water stone is barely wide enough for my spokeshave blades.

I do keep my water stones at hand and use them on occasion, but 99% is on the sandpaper.

Final honing on strop with that green stuff.

Mike

Jon Toebbe
11-24-2009, 12:30 AM
I started out with sandpaper on scraps of marble tiles, and still use coarse sandpaper for "nick removal" type chores. This summer I got turned on to ceramic stones (Spyderco) and stropping with green rouge. It's less messy, and yields very good edges.

More important than the abrasive is the technique. Practice, practice, practice. I'm sure my edges would look rather poor to some of the sharpening gurus out there, but they're definitely getting better over time!

Steve Hamlin
11-24-2009, 6:32 AM
Same as chisels, I hollow grind on a wet grinder and freehand hone on either arkansas or waterstones, depending what's closest.
I do use a guide (Kell or Veritas) if I want to reestablish square or a specific skew angle
I don't ruler trick, but do use a back bevel if I want a higher EP on a bench plane, or a more durable edge on a block plane.
Have only recently started using the grinder regularly, before that I was working a single bezel, working from coarse to fine on either arkansas or waterstones. I repaired major damage and reshaped using coarse sanpaper on glass.

Richard Dooling
11-24-2009, 6:17 PM
Same as George. It was on his advice that I have my love-hate relationship with my Spyderco ceramics.

Mostly freehand these days.

.

Johnny Kleso
11-24-2009, 8:34 PM
All of the Above plus High and Low Speed Grinders that I think are a must if you dont want to kill your Hand Stones...

Jack Camillo
11-24-2009, 9:31 PM
LV Mk2 power sharpener (when needed), followed by waterstones

James Owen
11-24-2009, 9:58 PM
I'd like to start a poll on who uses what medium for sharpening their handplanes.
1. Waterstones
2. Oilstones
3. Sandpaper
4. Diamonds
5. Other

Mill bastard file for fixing "huge" flaws.

Diamonds for quick removal of metal: flattening and fixing (minor) flaws; waterstones (800 - 8000 grit) for sharpening and polishing; ceramic (2000 grit) for final polish; stropping with honing compound when needed.

Flat cutters: mostly free-hand (95%+); Veritas MK II for special applications;

Gouges: mostly free-hand; Oar jig (sometimes).