uuugh thread repair?

[Matt Edwards]

UUUGH, I just got my vintage #50 tuned and set for my next home school co-op shop class. We're making picture frames with all handtools for x-mas gifts. Anyway, the #50 was set up to make the rabbit for the mat,glass,pic and was working really well, when all the sudden the nicker and screw fell out on a back stroke. When I attempted to put it back, I found the threads in the body were toast. :( Any advice on a repair, my first thought was to use a fine punch and pein around the hole, but I'm worried about cracking the body.

Sure hope I can get this thing back in shape, it really works well for this operation and it fits the small hands of the kids much better than a 45 or 46.


Thanks
Matt

[David Gendron]

I think you will have better suggestions than mine... But I will give my idea any way!
You could fill the hole with GB WELD and after it cured, you could retap the treads and put the srew back in place. There is also a product called FORME A TREAD, I think and that could work also!!
Good luck
If you can get Jr. Starsil to write in this thread, you will have the info you need!

[Jim Koepke]

I have yet to work on another plane for the Fettling Old Metal Planes thread. One of my #4s has some bad threads for the tote. On another plane, I have done as David suggest and used JB Weld.

I am not sure what the threads are for the nicker.

My method was to fill the hole with JB Weld and use a drill bit sized to the screw tap drill size to form the area to be tapped in the hole. Then when the JB Weld dries, re-tap the hole.

I have never used Form A Thread, so can not say if it is better than JB Weld.

Also, absent a nicker, I have scored the edge of my work with a marking knife when going cross grain and it tends to make a better edge than a nicker.

jim

[harry strasil]

+1 for locktite formathread, -10 for peining=disaster

[Tristan Raymond]

Form a Thread should work, I have used it once years ago. I believe that it is available from car parts stores. Good luck!

[Dave Beauchesne]

Matt:

Find a machinist who has some Belzona - this stuff is primo - there are different formulations for different metals, but it is the best IMHO.

Drill and tap after application, like JB Weld, only better.

Dave Beauchesne

[David Gendron]

Wow...I'm happy my idea was approved by both Jr. and Jim!
Good luck with the fix and let us know if it did work and if it didn't... you can blame Jr. or Jim:eek:;).

[Matt Edwards]

Thanks for all the advice! I'll swing into an auto parts store today and see what they have. I have some JB weld, but I was thinking that they have another product that is intended for machining. Bad thing is, there is only a hair more than 2 threads in there. But, It looks as though I could puddle a little extra on the back side and gain some thread area.

We will see how it goes. I'll post pictures when I'm done.

Thank you all for the help!

Matt

[Bill Houghton]

Be aware that the thread pitch may be non-current-standard and that you may have to tap to a current standard and get, and maybe modify, a standard machine screw. You'd probably have to grind or file the head down a little to fit in the tiny countersink on the nicker.

Normally, cast iron is coarse thread, but for something this short, fine thread may be better.