Router for raised panels.

[James Carmichael]

Well, I bought a horizontal RP bit set. Now, is there such a thing as a router that will swing a 3 1/2" RP bit right out of the box? I've been looking at the Hitachi M12V, but it looks as though you've got to cut the "ears" off of the base where the template adapter attaches.

I've got a Makita 1101, which should do the job if I stick to small cuts, but the base opening is about .2" too small. Seriously thinking of sending this set back and going vertical.

[Donnie Raines]

PC 7518 is a wonderful choice....been a round a while....true work horse...!

[Dan Gill]

You could do what I did. Mount the bit above the table, and use an auxiliary top. I made one out of MDF with a hole large enough for my panel raiser. It has worked well for me.

[David Wilson]

I have 2 MV12 routers, 1 mounted in my table. I cut of the ears on that one to accomidate the large bits. Router is mounted on a rockler base blate which has inserts to accomidate buchings and the set up works great. Don't forget to run the large bits at a reduced speed.

[Gene Collison]

Well, I bought a horizontal RP bit set. Now, is there such a thing as a router that will swing a 3 1/2" RP bit right out of the box? I've been looking at the Hitachi M12V, but it looks as though you've got to cut the "ears" off of the base where the template adapter attaches.

I've got a Makita 1101, which should do the job if I stick to small cuts, but the base opening is about .2" too small. Seriously thinking of sending this set back and going vertical.

James,

Milwaukee 5625-20, best out there for a table! Premium collets, forged wrenches, built in top of the table adjustment, infinitely variable speed control with no sag power, good bearings (not chinese like some). Kind of obsoletes all others in this range. Check it out!

Gene

[Brad Schmid]

I solved this problem on my Bosch 3 1/4 HP by making a hardboard spacer plate to fit between the router base and the base plate. It allows the cutter to be outside the smaller router base opening and below the table surface.
cheers,
Brad

[Jamie Buxton]

Yeah, the reason that most routers have an opening too small for that big bit is that the bearings and such inside the router aren't really hefty enough to handle the loads imposed by big bits. The smaller-diameter vertical bits impose somewhat smaller loads. Or you can give up on these wimpy router-based things and get a shaper -- a fully-fledged machine designed for this kind of service. Consider the cost of the router-based approach. There's the big router. Then there's a router table to put it in. It needs a really solid fence that's not going to move around on you. It needs to bolt the router down so it doesn't move; a router insert and gravity won't do. So it is going to be a substantial investment. Then compare the cost of a medium-duty shaper. You'll find it isn't much more expensive, and it'll do a better job for longer.

[Hal Flynt]

I just cut the ears off my M12V yesterday to make bit changing from above the table easier. Hint, use some oil on the blade to keep it from clogging.

Now with a "Crows Foot" on a 6" extension to an old socket wrench, I can remove and replace most bits without removing from the table.

[David LaRue]

I have the Hitachi M12V (ears cut off and springs removed) with Frued 2+2 panel cutter bits, and the Woodpecker lift. It works great.

Dave

[mike lucas]

Any of the 3hp to 3 1/2 hp routers will work fine with the 3 1/2" panel raiser bits. However, you need to make sure that whatever router you choose have Variable speed, as the 23,000 to 25,000 rpm is much to high of a speed for these bits!

[Charlie Plesums]

I have my panel raising bit currently installed in my M12V router, and have NOT cut off the ears. The bit is well over 3 inches in diameter - appears to be 3 1/2 inches, but I didn't bother to get the outside calipers to check that closely. The ears make it hard to tighten the collet, but don't interfere with operation.

The horizontal bits have to be run slowly - one time I forgot to turn the speed down, and it was definitely a dive for cover situation.

Horizontal bits allow a curved top door, which you cannot get with a vertical bit.

I have not used a vertical panel raiser, but I have a big vertical cove moulding cutter. It is very difficult to get a smooth cut, even with feather boards to hold the material against the fence. I expect you would have the same problem with a vertical panel raiser.