Plunge rounter in a table....what am I missing??

[George Farra]

hi Guys

I purchased the Frued 3.25hp plunge router that HDT had on sale recently. I want to mount this in my router table which will free up my smaller PC690 for hand held use.

I'm accustomed to setting depth with a plunge router by either using the turret stops or using the workpeice to set depth by plunging down...i'm usually using a straight bit.

How do I set up a rail & stile set with a plunge router in a table? how about a profile bit or lock miter bit?? I'm accustomed to a fixed base router in the table so I creep up on my desired height fairly easily.

I'm trying to figure out how to do the same with a plunge router when the plunge mechanism is always pushing the bit away from the router plate. So what is the secret? Do I remove the springs from the router so the base moves freely without any opposing force? If this is what needs to be done, how do I accomplish this on a Freud FT2000E??

TIA

George

[Jim Kountz]

Simple, just use the depth adjustment knob to screw the router up or down. There are other options too such as the Router Raizer and Woodpeckers Plungelift plate.

[Joe Scharle]

I know one guy who uses a plunge bar assist, like the ones many of us Woodrat owners use. You can see them at chipsfly.com. Might help.

[Peter Quinn]

Most plunge routers have a micro adjust knob to fine tune the depth setting for precise work. My bosch plunge has a built in system for disengaging the spring system for table use to aid in course adjustment. I would imagine you could make a course adjustment possibly with the aid of some type of gauge block and tune in the setting with the micro adjust knob?

[glenn bradley]

Hopefully someone who has removed their springs on this model will chime in. I have only done it on the Tritons but, they are made to be removed for table use and it is quite simple and in the manual.

[sean m. titmas]

One option is to use a plunge bar (http://woodrat.com/plungebars.html) from Wood Rat. It makes it possible to adjust a plunge router by squeezing two bars together with one hand. I've never used it so i cant speak to its efficiency.

The other option is to mount the router into a base plate, like the Kreg PRS 3030 (http://www.kregtool.com/products/prs/product.php?PRODUCT_ID=95), so that it can be easily removed and flipped over to adjust the depth of the bit.

I use the Mast-R-Lift (http://www.jessem.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=8&Itemid=6) By JessEm. It has the depth adjustments made from the top side of the table with a removable handle for very convenient changes. you can even change bits from the top without taking the router out. In my opinion its a great lift and worth every penny.

[Hank Knight]

George,

I have had an old Bosch 1615EVS plunge router in my router table for many years. It is a pain to adjust, especially to raise the bit. The motor binds unless I exert equal pressure on both posts while raising the bit in the table (plunging in it's normal configuration). I've gotten pretty good at plunging the bit for a cut deeper than I'll need before I put the router/plate in the table. Once the router is in the table, I can back off the bit depth by turing the knob on the router post. The springs exert constant force on both posts when I do this and the motor doesn't bind. I have to be careful not to overshoot with the adjustment or I have a struggle to raise the bit again without taking the router out of the table. I've considered many times replacing the router in my table, but this one is a very good router and I've become more tolerant of it over the years.

Hank

[Mark Warwick]

easiest way is a plunge bar. Not sure if you can get them there but you can get them from woodrat. You guys have the router boss, they may sell them.

[Jim Rimmer]

I have a Freud plunge router mounted in my table. I use the fine adjustment to get it set and then lock it in place to make sure vibration doesn't change it slightly. If I need to change a lot I lock it down, move the adjuster and then release the clamp or to go the other way just push it, lock it, and screw the fine adjuster up til it makes contact then release the clamp and make the fine adjustments.

Rereading this, it doesn't make sense without a picture. Make fine adjustments with the fine adjustment knob at the upper right in the picture below. Plunge the router to the close setting and lock it in place, screw the fine adjustment down until it makes contact, release the clamp and make fine adjustments. I don't see the clamp in this pic but there has to be one. To go the other way, clamp the router in place, screw the fine adjuster away and then release the clamp, make fine adjustments and reclamp.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41WJVAN7E5L._SL500_AA280_.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B000AYTA2K/ref=dp_image_0?ie=UTF8&n=228013&s=hi)

[Jim Finn]

[QUOTE My bosch plunge has a built in system for disengaging the spring system for table use to aid in course adjustment.QUOTE]
Peter:
I have that same router and cannot seem to get the spring to stay disengaged. I follow the instructions and it works untill I make a height adjustment to lower the bit below the table and then the spring re engages, Any tip to help me?

[Mike Nguyen]

Hopefully someone who has removed their springs on this model will chime in. I have only done it on the Tritons but, they are made to be removed for table use and it is quite simple and in the manual.
Router workshop has a section for instructions on how to remove the spring for Ryobi, Freud, Dewalt, Porter Cable, and Hitachi plunge routers
Mike

[Curt Harms]

Hopefully someone who has removed their springs on this model will chime in. I have only done it on the Tritons but, they are made to be removed for table use and it is quite simple and in the manual.

Router Raizer recommends leaving the springs in. I did remove the boots on the plunge rods, might have added a bit of plunge depth. I did initially remove the springs-yes it's easy-but found that if I locked the plunge lock, the bit tilted. Oops:o. This was using a home made crank that worked with the existing threaded rod. I didn't try the home made crank with the plunge springs reinstalled. I'm quite happy with the FT2000E & the router raizer. There's enough resistance to the shaft turning, perhaps due to the plunge springs, that the plunge lock does not need to be engaged and the router does not change depth during use. The only maintenance I've done is to replace the lower bearings. My bearing closest to the collet was shielded. It seems possible that bearings sees a little more dust when the router is used inverted in a table than when used upright. Anyway, I went to my local bearing place and got the same dimensions and speed rating but a sealed Fafnir. We'll see how that holds up.