What plane is right?

[Brad Schmid]

What is the correct choice of plane to use for fine tuning dovetailed drawer sides where there is both end grain and long grain?

Thanks,
Brad

[Tim Sproul]

A smoother of one sort or another is typical. Low angle smoother will cut through the end grain more easily but is more prone to run into problems once you start cutting the drawer side. Higher (45 standard or higher) will work but you need to be more careful about getting the iron honed really sharp so it will cut the end grain cleanly. Be sure to back up the end grain at the end of the stroke or you can bevel it slightly before planing smooth. Either will help you from pushing large splinters of wood off. some wood(s) and plane combinations will allow you to plane from either direction....then just finish the plane stroke in the middle of the drawer side.

[Steven Wilson]

I will generally have on hand the following
1) card scraper
2) small scraper plane
3) 1 1/2" wide japaneese paring chisel - stupid sharp.
4) Low angle block plane
5) LN LA smoother
6) Clifton #3 Bench plane

[Dennis McDonaugh]

I use a Stanley 65 or 18, set to a fine cut.

[Tom Scott]

Usually my pins (or tails) are only slightly proud, and I get by with just a low angle block plane...never found the need to go to a smoother for this.

Tom

[Bob Smalser]

I use a block plane...Stanley 60 1/2....if I need to take off a lot and a card scraper if I need to take off a little.

I've also run ones way out over the power jointer...face first only....works well with fresh blades set on a 32nd or less.

[Brad Schmid]

Thanks all, appreciate the expert advice!
Cheers,
Brad