Table saw accessories

[Charles Watson]

Hi all,

I am in the process of setting up my table saw with a router extension table and will be adding a fold up outfeed table. While shopping for a few items I come across so much add ons and accessories it makes me ask...do I really need all these gadgets?

I have seen many things I would like and could possible even need but man it adds up doesn't it!

So my question to you much more experienced, what do I really need to comfortably AND safely operate a table saw.

ZCI, thought about buying the Leecraft for my 113.298240 Craftsman but then figured I could have some fun building a bunch myself out of birch plywood or whatever material would be suitable.

Yellow board buddies, I figure these would be a nice additon and would boost safety but please do chime in. If they are nothing more than a luxury then I will pass. These do fit into the small miter tracks on table saw fences without having to buy additional hardware right?

Splitters, I have the original splitter on my table saw, I did look into the microjig splitter and the microjig pro steel splitters. Would anyone recommend either of those?

Featherboards, I have a few basic ones, nothing special, no magnetic ones or anything...any particular ones that are recommended?

Since I'm new to table saws, routers and jointers I am basically looking for advice on what I need to look out for. If anyone ever had a 'wish I had a ... right now' moment I'd be grateful to hear abot it.

I am a bit torn to two sides, part of me says basic stuff is all you need so save a buck but I won't sacrifice safety to save lots of bucks, I'm quite attached to my fingers and plan on keeping it that way so all advice is greatly appreciated.


You are probably saying that this all depends on what I will build...well I'm not sure yet but a few things are on the list such as a bookcase and a desk.

I also build guitars so will be ripping 2" thick mahogany, ash and alder on a regular basis.

[Lee Schierer]

I have a craftsman saw as well. I would recommend an aftermarket miter gauge such as the Kreg miter gauge.

I like the magnetic feather boards by Grip Tite. The are easy to use, very effective and you will actually use them.http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/34752-02-200.jpg

The splitter that comes with Craftsman saws is pretty useless. I don't use one on mine. Instead I took the time to do a precision alignment of the blade to the miter slot and fence to the miter slot. As a result I don't get tooth marks on my rip or cross cuts and no burning when ripping. I also don't get kick backs.

Buy a dedicated 24 tooth rip blade, thin kerf is probably the best for your saw and a dedicated 60 tooth cross cut blade. I like Freud blades due to their low cost and high cut quality.

The craftsman throat plate is the same thickness as luan ply wood. You can make ZCI's cheaply. I glue a piece of 3/4 x 3/4 stock to the bottom side for extra support.

[glenn bradley]

There is a lot out there and no, you don't need any of it. Will some of them make your time safer and more enjoyable, yes.

I am in the process of setting up my table saw with a router extension table and will be adding a fold up outfeed table. While shopping for a few items I come across so much add ons and accessories it makes me ask...do I really need all these gadgets?

I have seen many things I would like and could possible even need but man it adds up doesn't it!

So my question to you much more experienced, what do I really need to comfortably AND safely operate a table saw.

ZCI - Make your own. I use the MJ Splitter as it is easy and effective.

Yellow board buddies - Some people love these. I find Grr-Rippers more versatile and they can be used on different machines.

Splitters - Ooops, I got ahead of myself. I run the plastic MJ Splitters and have for years. I bought one set of spares for about $8 at one of the shows in case I broke one. I have never broken one but now just leave an MJ in each of my ZCI's (Rip, Combo and Crosscut). The metal ones look interesting but I have never broken the plastic ones.

Featherboards - I find the magnetic universal one (get the HD Ridgid version for $40) the most useful for general cuts. I have sets of stacking ones that lock in the miter slot as well.

[John Harden]

All you really need is a good push stick and a reliable and accurate mitre gauge.

When I had a cabinet saw, I really liked the Incra mitre 1000 gauge. Accurate, inexpensive and repeatable. Can't ask for much more than that.

The MJ splitter is very effective, inexpensive ($20) and best of all, lightening fast to take on and off, which means you'll actually use it.

You can make your own push sticks out of BB plywood or hardwood, so don't bother buying them. Lot's of templates out there for you to choose from. Use them all the time and let them get chewed up, then toss them. I'll make 10 or more at a time, which will last quite awhile.

A magnetic featherboard is nice to have too. I have the Griptite and the newer ones where you turn the handle to activate/deactivate the magnetism. Both work fine.

My advice is to start slow and buy accessories when the need actually arises. Its way to easy to wind up with a lot of gadgets and junk you don't need.

Oh, one other thing. I really like my Wixi, digital andgle gauge. $40 or so, but it works very well. Not something I really need, but I think its cool. :D

EDIT: One more thing. Make a half dozen zero clearance inserts for your throat plate. Just use the OEM one as a template and route out a bunch of them from BB ply or UHMW of the appropriate thickness. Error on the side of them being a bit too thin. Hex head threaded inserts will allow you to level them perfectly.

Regards,

John

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I will second that Grip Tite mag feather board. They work well. I think I paid 30 - 40 bucks or so. Not too pricey. I also have the gripper push blocks. They are a little pricey, but I like my fingers too. They work really well, since they also push the off cut out of the way too. Simple idea that works. If you need to rip 1/4" thick stuff, I would highly reccomend that. You can also get a 1/8" leg, if you need to rip bindings. I haven't used the 1/8" leg, but I'm sure that it would work. I rip 3/8" stuff all the time. No sweat. the pucker factor using push sticks when ripping small stuff is GONE.

[Don Morris]

Between my Grrr-Rippers, (you need two for long things), magnetic Grip tite, a Biesemyer splitter (happens to also fit my Griz 1023) a couple push blocks/sticks depending on the application at the time, I haven't found a need for anything else. I've made several ZCI's from BB and/or preformed "commercial" blocks.

[Bill Arnold]

I'll add my vote to the Grrripper, Grip-Tite, shop-made ZCIs and push-sticks. Depending on the type of work you'll do, an after-market miter gauge like the Incra 1000SE is great. There are umpteen other items you'll be tempted by, so take your time and make good decisions.

[Charles Watson]

Thank you for all the replies, you guys rock!

After lots of reading in the last few hours I am sold on the grrr-rippers and am ready to buy two gr 200 + handle bridge accessories and dvd off of ebay for $110 + shipping. The same kit minus handles goes for $139 + shipping on peachtree. Still high but there's no price on safety.

I will make a bunch of zci's, use the grr-rippers and take it from there.
I wonder I can use these things on a jointer....not face jointing but edge...

[Myk Rian]

Grr-Rippers and 1/2" BB ply homemade ZCIs.

[Heather Thompson]

Thank you for all the replies, you guys rock!

After lots of reading in the last few hours I am sold on the grrr-rippers and am ready to buy two gr 200 + handle bridge accessories and dvd off of ebay for $110 + shipping. The same kit minus handles goes for $139 + shipping on peachtree. Still high but there's no price on safety.

I will make a bunch of zci's, use the grr-rippers and take it from there.
I wonder I can use these things on a jointer....not face jointing but edge...

Charles,

Grippers are great for face jointing, I personally edge joint with my hands unless the piece is real small, if the task feels wrong re-think it.

Heather

[Prashun Patel]

I'm a GRRRIPPER fan, but caveat emptor on this:

You have to use it without the guard, because it straddles the blade. This can be scary in some situations; you really should use a short splitter with it to improve safety.

Consider an aftermarket overarm guard. The Sharkguard is an economical alternative to the pricier 'arm type' guards. I am a fan of the SG because a) it greatly enhances dust collection, since it has a dust port on it
b) It slips on and off easy for non-thru cuts, c) it comes with 3 different height splitters which can be used without the guard - including a shorty which you can use with yr GRRIPPER.

I think there are good push blocks that can be made to be used with a guard.

Also, keep in mind that the Boardbuddies won't work with a GRRRIPPPER.

I think different devices make sense in different situations.

[Philip Rodriquez]

mmmm, lets see. Here is the order I would recommend:

First, a good aftermarket miter gauge.
Outfeed table (easy to make)
A splitter (micro jig is a good one with a shop made ZCI).
Dado stack (don’t skimp)
Dial indicator for exact alignment

[Rod Sheridan]

-push sticks.pads

- a good, easilly removed splitter or riving knife (if it's easy to use, you'll use it

- an overarm guard for dust collection and the ability to use it for non through cuts.

- board buddies are only useful if your fence locks at both ends, otherwise they'll lift your fence up.

- a good aftermarket mitre gauge ( I have a Jessem)

-outfeed table

- ZCI's

- home made feather boards

- crosscut sled

Regards, Rod.

[Greg Wittler]

You Could pick up a copy of Shopnotes Tablesaw Essentials, which shows you how to your own Jigs and even has a review of the better aftermarket Miter Guages. I think it will be available into January. I got a copy at Borders about two weeks ago.

[David Christopher]

good fence and good miter gage, everything else is wants not needs

[glenn bradley]

I wonder I can use these things on a jointer....not face jointing but edge...

Like others, I hand hold while edge jointing as long as the piece is wide enough for me to feel comfortable.

[Chris Parks]

Digital fence gauge and a good mitre gauge. The digital gauge makes repeatibility so much easier especially for a new user. You can cut the same size exactly days later if you wish. OEM mitre gauges are rubbish and all the push sticks, feather boards etc can be made. Out feed tables are an essential if you work on your own and most of us do. Mine is a rolling cabinet made for the purpose that holds more junk, err tools.

[Ray Newman]

What blade is on the saw? You haven’t mentioned any thing ‘bout the saw blade(s).

All the accessories in the world could very well be for naught if you have a substandard blade.

And considering you are going to work 8/4 mahogany and other hardwoods, I would first consider two good blades. Why two?-- when one gets dull, you have a sharp blade to use while the other is sharpened. A thin kerf blade will take less energy to make a cut and also save expensive wood.

As for a splitter, match the blade kerf to the splitter. Some splitters are too wide to work with a thin kerf blade.

Now about power, how big is the motor? Can it be re-wired for 220 volts? In another life, I had a Delta Contractor’s Saw -- 1.5 HP -- and I had to really watch the feed rate when cutting thicker boards. After I had it re-wired for 220, the problem just about went away.

A quality aftermarket miter gauge is something to consider. Depending how wide and long your stock will be, an accurate crosscut sled might be handy.

Same with an aftermarket rip fence.

Since I work alone, my Unifence has Board Buddies which I find are especially helpful when ripping and/or cutting sheet goods. They will also prevent a kickback.

Fabricate a stout out feed table that could also double as an assembly table. Put wheels on it so it can easily be moved around if necessary. A few years ago, I built a New Yankee Workshop assembly table and altered it to fit my needs. Since the table has retractable wheels, I can turn the table so it will support a 4’X8’ sheet of plyw’d or similar material coming off the saw. www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0207 (http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0207)

If you ever find the need for a roller stand to support the work, a ball bearing roller stand is not finicky to position. A typewriter type roller stand must be set parallel to the front (or rear) edge of the saw table, or the stock will not feed straight.

And as John Harden posted:
“My advice is to start slow and buy accessories when the need actually arises. Its way too easy to wind up with a lot of gadgets and junk you don't need.”

[Don Morris]

Was re-reading and agree with the comment about a cross cut sled. I forgot to add that one. I use mine a lot. Lots of references on that. Build a good one. Essential.

[Stephen Edwards]

Was re-reading and agree with the comment about a cross cut sled. I forgot to add that one. I use mine a lot. Lots of references on that. Build a good one. Essential.

+1. A good crosscut sled, and it doesn't have to be fancy, will sure make using your TS a lot more enjoyable and much less frustrating. I seldom use my miter gauge anymore for cutting 90 degree cuts.

My priority list for starters, as several others have mentioned and depending on what you can afford right now, would be: 1 or 2 quality blades, a decent fence and miter gauge, followed by tuning your saw. Push sticks. Crosscut sled. Then, buy or build as the need arises. You'll figure it out as you go along.

[glenn bradley]

+1 crosscut sled (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=50581). It'll change your life.

[Charles Watson]

Thank you all for making it so much easier. My head is actually spinning a lot less today!

So far I have bought the 2 grr-rippers with handle upgrades and dvd and I will be making a bunch of zci's this weekend.

Next on the list is the small plastic splitters and I am going to look into that overhead guard.

I just bought a new blade to try out. It's a Freud D1060x Diablo. I had read great reviews about it and at $40 it was a small risk. Since I'm a novice I had to start somewhere to find out what I would need in a blade.

If I do like it I will get a second blade as a backup.

My table saw says it's 3HP but it's a 110v AND the motor states it's 1.5HP. I guess someone swapped the motor before I got it or Sears is full of.....cookies.
I could get a beefier motor and run it on 220 but I need to find out if I can safely do so. The guts of the saw are built like a tank but I don't know if I can just swap out the motor and be done with it.

Anyway I started it up yesterday and I was stunned at how smooth and silent it was without any set up. This might turn out to be a decent saw!

In my first post I stated it was model 113.298240.. that's actually my other saw, I forgot what model the 3HP is but it looks almost identical, same era saw.

The 240 is a 1HP and I actually bolted it to the other saw with a 10 inch wing inbetween.

I paid $40 for one and $50 for the other, not sure anymore which one was cheaper. I also have two webbed cast iron extension wings that came with it, 12 x 27, the original blade guard and splitters, original fences and one still had the original stand.
I don't think there will be a lot of difference in power between the two so I might end up sticking a dado in one saw and leaving it there, or a crosscut blade, it'll all depend on what I end up doing.

For the guitar building the table saw will be used mostly to crosscut stock for the bodies. These will be cut to lenght, planed, jointed and glued up to end up with a 18x14x6/4 blank. I might run into trouble cutting 8/4 mahogany and ash so I'll plane it down to 6/4 before I cut it.
For some guitars the body will only end up being 12 wide and since I have a 13" planer I thought it easier to finsih the blanck before I ran it through the thickness planer. Again I'm just guessing here because I actually have never done this before. It's pretty exciting though!

The diablo blade will be tested shortly when I start work on the router table wing and outfeed tables. Because of space issues I will have fold up outfeed tables on the back and on the left side of the saw.

I've attached a picture of my rough draft for the table saw stand I made from an old sturdy lab desk. This will be my moveable work center. I beefed it up with 2x4's and mdf. The top is mdf on top of the original table top making it 1.5" thick. The base is mdf on a 2x4 frame with 4" locking casters and it works like a charm! Next up is building baffles inside and cut holes in the top where the saws sit to create dust collection for both saws and then finish the sides with pegboard and stain or paint the whole thing. I'm having a blast building this just with the leftover stuff I have in the garage. The stand is around 23 high so the ts tops sit at a comfy 36 ish " from the ground.

I've been clearing out the garage and yet have to remove the small metal workbench and shelves full of rubble so I have room for a nice woodworking bench. I desperately need one to build the guitar necks and other fun things.

The fence is a Craftsman xr-2424, same as the Ridgid fence. Locks front and back. The front rail is 60" long which gives me enough to ride the fence over the entire length. I thought about adding a router fence to it to elminate the cost of a dedicated router table fence but after lots of advice from others I dropped that idea.

Since I got the grr-rippers I will not get the board buddies just yet. If it turns out I will be cutting big sheets I'll just order a set.

You can see my old Craftsman jointer in the background. Model 113.206931.
It was a bit rusty so I took a few minutes to clean it up. It came with new knives installed and purrs like a kitten! Not bad for $40. To bad it scares the #$% out of me. Hence me asking about edge jointing. I will need to watch a few videos before I feel comfortable working with it.

I will need educating on crosscut sleds so will start reading about them right now!

[Mike Wilkins]

My vote is to wait and see what you need. I think all of us has made the mistake of buying the latest/greatest/neatest gizmo/gadget/thingamagig just because of a slick ad, or a fast talking demo guy at a woodworking show. I know I have on more than one occasion. I now take a wait-and-see approach before reaching for the wallet. Most of the time.

[Charles Watson]

I'm sure I have accumulated some gadgets that I shouldn't have so I'm trying to avoid the gimmicks.

I did get the grr-ripper set and I love it, I think that was a good buy.

I forgot to ask you guys....what dado blade is recommended? I don't know how much I will use it but when I do I would like to have a clean cut. I don't think I have to go with the most expensive but I'm sure the cheapest one would be a bad choice.
I've seen the Diablo dd208 dado set for $100 at home depot and they also had a $50 set but forgot the brand...starts with 'A' i think..

Anyway, the saw to use it with is the 113.298240 with a 1HP motor. I know many people have used a dado blade with one of these without problems but should I look for a 6" stacked dado just to be sure or should I go ahead and find an 8"?

Again this is for hobby work, the saw will not be running 8 hours a day.

[Jim Facteau]

or the Osborne EB3, love that miter guage

[richard droman]

Crosscut sled, my most valued accessory. I made 2, a 17" and a 37"